Variable Wattage systems.. [need guidance]

[neoblitz]

I have gone through few items like Lavatube and VAMO v3, not yet bought them ... i am still a bit noob understanding the RMS and AVG things with it.. I am a bit unhappy with the clearomizers i have .. they don't work well enough.. also I have a ego v6 with 3 variable voltage .. apparently i get mostly burnt test from the clearomizers (3.5ml tank 2.5 ohms, yes they are well soaked in liquid .. ) .. then I tried a smoktech DCT tank (1.6ml 1.5ohm) .. a lot of vapor but not enough flavors (with a v6 body).. but it is ok when i put it with a ego T battery..

Im sure missing out stuff!! Need a tad bit help about the Variable wattage systems.. ! would really appreciate it

 

[FattyMcChubChub]

It's really confusing at first, I had to remember back to my highschool electronics class to start understanding everything.

This thred can help put you on the right track.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/new-members-forum/383359-question-volts-watts-ohms.html

This should help as well. Ohm's Law Calculator
(Enter in any two known values to get your answer.)

If you are playing around with atomizers that have different resistance ratings on a fixed voltage/wattage system, you'll have a frustrating time getting them to work just right. A burnt taste could be a dry wick. At the same time the ohms could be too low and voltage is too high. If there's no flavor and it's a really cool vape, the ohms may be too high and the voltage too low.

It can get pretty technical but the basics for ohms ratings are pretty simple. Your average available resistances are usually 1.8, 2.0, 2.5, 2.8, and 3.0 ohms. Finding the volts/watts for each of them is widely dependent on personal preference too.

A good starting basis:
1.8 ohms - 3.7 volts
2.0 ohms - 4.0 volts
2.5 ohms - 4.4-4.5 volts
2.8 ohms - 4.7-5.0 volts
3.0 ohms - 5.0-5.5 volts

Hope this helps get you started.

 

[neoblitz]

Hope this helps get you started.

Wow yes back to school of electronics You saved my day .. Apparently you are right the burnt test not because of the wick . it was mainly i think voltage for the right ohms issue..

So lets say i put one atty which has 2ohm and set it on a battery that has 3.6v - 3.7v only .. that would under-perform .. thanks so much for the links..

 

[j0_man]

Variable Wattage (VW) mods are great if you are not a very technical / electronics savvy. I have a Zmax which is a VV/VW unit and I just set it to 8-9 watts and its good to go no matter what atomizer I use (AGA T+ @ 2.1 ohms build / 901 LR atty / AGA S @ 1.8 ohm / Smok DCT ) sometimes I go up to 10 watts on a cartomizer @ 2.0+ ohms.

 

[Disconnect]

VV and VW do basically the same thing - change the voltage according to your setting. The only problem is, your goal isn't a particular voltage - you are looking for a wattage. (Even if you don't know it ) 4V on one head is going to be different (between a little and a lot) on a different head. (I've pulled "2.8" out of the box and gotten anywhere from 2.1 to 3.5. Usually its not that bad, but..)

The V/W devices go a step farther than V/V and measure the resistance for you, so that you can just say "I love 7W" (or 5W or 10W or..) and it will automatically set the correct voltage. It also adds a lot of convenience when switching between LR/SR/HR since you don't risk blowing up the atty (or your face.. 11W cinnamon HURTS) by having the voltage too high..

Here is a nice wattage cheat sheet btw:

 

[neoblitz]

Variable Wattage (VW) mods are great if you are not a very technical / electronics savvy. I have a Zmax which is a VV/VW unit and I just set it to 8-9 watts and its good to go no matter what atomizer I use (AGA T+ @ 2.1 ohms build / 901 LR atty / AGA S @ 1.8 ohm / Smok DCT ) sometimes I go up to 10 watts on a cartomizer @ 2.0+ ohms.

Thanks a lot Yes that is making sense now .. I am also looking at ZMax unit.. also thinking of a proper tank in my reach.. (malaysia side .. is there any international websites deliver to malaysia?)

 

[neoblitz]

VV and VW do basically the same thing - change the voltage according to your setting. The only problem is, your goal isn't a particular voltage - you are looking for a wattage. (Even if you don't know it ) 4V on one head is going to be different (between a little and a lot) on a different head. (I've pulled "2.8" out of the box and gotten anywhere from 2.1 to 3.5. Usually its not that bad, but..)
Here is a nice wattage cheat sheet btw:

NICE chart I am saving it .. I am sure it is gonna come handy.. thanks too!

 

[sawlight]

RMS= Root Mean Square, AVG= Average. I'm sure you've seen the semi-circles on an oscilloscope before, the lines go up and down in an arc showing the rise and fall of the voltage. AVG "tries" to maintain where it thinks the line would intersect going up and down, so it's adjusting and figuring all the time so i's not all that accurate.
RMS, figures exactly where the valley, bottom of the voltage, is and takes out the peaks, and comes up with a stable and consistent voltage.
It's more of a flat line in RMS, vs. peaks and valleys with AVG. There was an interesting thread on this, but it was about a specific device that doesn't pertain to this so I won't link it for now.
VV= variable voltage.
VW= variable wattage.
Wattage is figured by squaring the voltage and dividing it by the resistance. Wattage equates to the heat that the atomizer, coil, in your juice delivery system creates.
Both VV and VW do the same thing, just in a different way, VV you might need to figure a bit to get it right, VW sets the wattage to whatever you are using, some say it's easier, some don't.
A very easy rule of thumb to get close when starting out is to just add 2 to the resistance of the atty you are using. This will keep you right in the 8 watt range and you can adjust up and down from there to suit taste.

 

[Eddie deGrouch]

This helped me, also. Let me see if I have it straight using crayons and poor car analogies...

For this example:
Voltage = gas pedal. 3v to 6v (3000 to 6000 rpm)
Atty ohms = gear. The higher the Ohms the LOWER the gear. 3 ohm = 1st gear, 2.5 ohm = 2nd gear, 2 ohm = 3rd gear and 1.5 ohm = 4th gear.
Atty refers to all types of heating elements whether carto, atty, etc.

I want to go 65 mph with this juice...

*Pause while mail person delivers e-stuff to me. YAY*

With a regular battery, let's say 3.7v, I have a motor that goes 3700 rpm ONLY so I need to match it with 2nd gear or 2 ohm to get 57 mph. In the ballpark and usable but not perfect.
You have to match the carto or atty ohms to get in the ballpark of watts or heat for the juice. Different juices will want differing heat so you have to have a selection of carts or batteries.

With a Variable Voltage (VV) mod you now have 3000 to 6000 rpm to play with. I can load whatever atty I have and dial in the speed I want within reaon.
You can adjust the voltage to the atty ohms to get the proper WATTS or heat for your juice.

With a Variable Wattage (VW) mod you have cruise control. Set it for 65 mph or 5 watts and it will match the rpm (voltage) to the gear you have installed (ohms) automatically.

Have I come close?

Ed

 

[Disconnect]

That is close enough to work with, yeah

Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Troy421]

Siegli Z-max.custom evolution carto tank boge 3ohm.

 

[sawlight]

YUP! You dun good! VV and VW lets you match what you have to get what you want vs., having to buy what you need to match what you have!
3.7v in all cases,
3ohm= 4.6watts (45-50MPH)
2.5ohm= 5.4watts (55MPH)
2ohm= 6.8watts (60MPH)
1.7ohm= 8watts (65MPH)
1.5ohm= 9.1watts (75MPH)
1ohm= 13.7watts (90MPH) and a good chance you will burn up an EGO!

MOST people, under MOST circumstances (RBA's and wire gauge excluded) like to be around 8watts as a comfortable vape, some juices you can go up to 10, some you go down to 6, but that is mainly subjective.
The guys in the RBA forum are on a whole other level so we have to remove that area.
But a VV or VW device lets you dial in what you are happy with without having to change anything other than a setting on the device.
WAY back in the day, we all had 3ish ohm carto's and 3.7v devices. Then they started stacking batteries making 5v devices and 7.4v devices. So they made higher ohm cartos to work better with them. In the process of this they figured out if they could make higher ohm coils, why not lower ohm carto's? So they did! Then 2ohm became a rage, then even lower. But we had problems with the smaller battery devices, cig-alikes, dying from the use of these, they would overload the protection circuitry. But the larger "Mods" at the time were fine.
Then, once again, they started taking cues from the flashlight community and came up with VV, which lets us adjust to find what we like. Then "Well, if VV is good, VW's got to be better!" came about.
Anyway, I'm rambling now, but I hope that helps some.

 

[neoblitz]

YUP! You dun good! VV and VW lets you match what you have to get what you want vs., having to buy what you need to match what you have!
3.7v in all cases,
3ohm= 4.6watts (45-50MPH)
2.5ohm= 5.4watts (55MPH)
2ohm= 6.8watts (60MPH)
1.7ohm= 8watts (65MPH)
1.5ohm= 9.1watts (75MPH)
1ohm= 13.7watts (90MPH) and a good chance you will burn up an EGO!

MOST people, under MOST circumstances (RBA's and wire gauge excluded) like to be around 8watts as a comfortable vape, some juices you can go up to 10, some you go down to 6, but that is mainly subjective.
The guys in the RBA forum are on a whole other level so we have to remove that area.
But a VV or VW device lets you dial in what you are happy with without having to change anything other than a setting on the device.
WAY back in the day, we all had 3ish ohm carto's and 3.7v devices. Then they started stacking batteries making 5v devices and 7.4v devices. So they made higher ohm cartos to work better with them. In the process of this they figured out if they could make higher ohm coils, why not lower ohm carto's? So they did! Then 2ohm became a rage, then even lower. But we had problems with the smaller battery devices, cig-alikes, dying from the use of these, they would overload the protection circuitry. But the larger "Mods" at the time were fine.
Then, once again, they started taking cues from the flashlight community and came up with VV, which lets us adjust to find what we like. Then "Well, if VV is good, VW's got to be better!" came about.
Anyway, I'm rambling now, but I hope that helps some.

Those are some fantastic replies guys .. Thanks

 

[neoblitz]

Siegli Z-max.custom evolution carto tank boge 3ohm.

Nice .. I might go with VAMO first due to the pricing difference .. but i guess in the long run I will get one Zmax and boge tank .. it is kinda hard to find those at these part of the world >_<

 

[neoblitz]

Now the point where I would ask .. so which type of liquid uses which Ohms.. ? is there any relation for thick juices uses x ohms or light juices uses x ohms .. etc..

 

[Disconnect]

Yes and no, there is probably a relationship but AFAIK it isn't a relationship you can necessarily predict. (And this is leaving out the various dual-coil options, since they are .. odd.)

Some juices burn and turn bitter/nasty at higher temperatures where others just get 'voomier' (more vapor, more TH, maybe flavor change.) For example, when I was first starting I found that the dekang 'nuport' could range from "super light/sweet menthol" all the way up to "insane camel menthol with the extra menthol capsule crushed" depending on wattage..

 

[gijills]

math R not me. I don't worry about it i just dial it up to where it tastes good. if it tastes burnt I am to high and if the flavor is dull I am too low. I am not going to do all that mathy type stuff. so I am a happy camper!

 

[Disconnect]

No math needed with the charts, unless you go to dual-coil.

Kinda OT, but let me save everyone the insane amounts of searching I had to do. I found this thread that gives good info on dual-coil cartos/etc.

The TL;DR version is that you double the target wattage for a dual coil head.

I'll stick with 1.5ohm since that is the most common.

A 1.5ohm dual coil is actually 2 coils at 3ohms each. So to find your voltage, you use 3 ohms on the left of the chart to get the watts you want, then read the voltage off the top (same as anything else.) BUT.. this is where it gets strange. The actual wattage that it will use is according to the 1.5 ohm list for that voltage. (2x the wattage you are 'aiming' for.)

Example: to get an equivalent of 8 watts on a DC 1.5ohm carto, you read 3.0 ohms over to 8W (between 4.75 and 5V.) On a VV device, you set that and if it can handle the load, you are done. On a VW device, slide up to 1.5ohm and the wattage is actually around 16W. (Double the wattage.)

I wish I'd found that info the other day, since it turns out I can't (reasonably) use all my DC cartos on my evic. (11W limit means 5.5W per coil on DC.. A little low for most of my juices.)

 

[ikelos]

Loads of suppliers in MY bro. Just google for 'em.

 

[Magma]

Thanks everyone for all the great info. As an Evic User, I am always happy to learn more on Volts/Watts, etc.