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Did you not read my response with a link to Mooch's testing of the cell?
It is a re wrap erroneously labeled lesser quality cell, it is not suitable for use in a mechanical with a resistance of less than .42Ω for safeties sake.
If you don't have an accurate way to measure resistance you shouldn't use the mechanical / rba, at all.
If you don't have a firm understanding of basic battery safety & selection you should put the mech away until you do.
Mechanicals can become dangerous in less than a blink of an eye in the hands of the inexperienced or uninformed.
It is a re wrap erroneously labeled lesser quality cell, it is not suitable for use in a mechanical with a resistance of less than .42Ω for safeties sake.
If you don't have an accurate way to measure resistance you shouldn't use the mechanical / rba, at all.
If you don't have a firm understanding of basic battery safety & selection you should put the mech away until you do.
Mechanicals can become dangerous in less than a blink of an eye in the hands of the inexperienced or uninformed.
Mechanical mods served a purpose before high powered regulated mods. Then they were the only real high powered device available. Times have cbanged for the better. Now beginners can blow huge clouds with relagively little chance of setting off a pipe bomb in their mouth. I vented a battery once and had a couple of close calls when I was new to mechs. Things can get scary fast. Don't get me wrong, I love them and have a few authentics I keep but mostly as collecters pieces. Mech mods are very high maintenance. You are going to need about 3 or 4 batteries to get through the day, an ohmmeter a charger some Naolox wouldnt hurt, polish to keep all the connections clean therefore conducting efficiently... Or you can get a dual battery mod, use the rda on it have coils built and watch what they do when they are building them and when you are ready then use the mech. By then you will probably like the convenience and power of the regulated much better than the mech anyway.
You are in no way, shape or form ready to use that mech.
You say you understand, but your questions show me that you really don't.
If you can't calculate, build for yourself the correct coils for your gear that is sign NUMBER ONE that you aren't ready for a mech.
I'd suggest some time spent reading on the rebuildable atomizer forum, so you can figure out how to build coils (I'd recommend as starting places a coilmaster kit that comes with an ohm's reader and pretty much everything you need to get started. Also, check out steam-engine.org to figure out how to build to the right resistance.
Also, if I ever asked a vape store to build my coils for me and then expected to rely on THEM for MY MECH?????????????? No, no no. They may have done a fine, or a terrible job but it is your hand and face that would be affected if it's the later.
You can't successfully vape a mech in the method you are proceeding. It's just not safe, period. You also don't appear to comprehend the things people are telling you about your current battery as you continue asking about it.
Start on a regulated mod like almost anyone does these days. Mechs can be a great vape.... with some experience under your belt.
You just aren't ready, please accept it and get something a little easier to deal with, heck, use your RTA, just do it on a regulated mod, and learn how to build and get safe batteries first. Your mech will be there.
Anna
You say you understand, but your questions show me that you really don't.
If you can't calculate, build for yourself the correct coils for your gear that is sign NUMBER ONE that you aren't ready for a mech.
I'd suggest some time spent reading on the rebuildable atomizer forum, so you can figure out how to build coils (I'd recommend as starting places a coilmaster kit that comes with an ohm's reader and pretty much everything you need to get started. Also, check out steam-engine.org to figure out how to build to the right resistance.
Also, if I ever asked a vape store to build my coils for me and then expected to rely on THEM for MY MECH?????????????? No, no no. They may have done a fine, or a terrible job but it is your hand and face that would be affected if it's the later.
You can't successfully vape a mech in the method you are proceeding. It's just not safe, period. You also don't appear to comprehend the things people are telling you about your current battery as you continue asking about it.
Start on a regulated mod like almost anyone does these days. Mechs can be a great vape.... with some experience under your belt.
You just aren't ready, please accept it and get something a little easier to deal with, heck, use your RTA, just do it on a regulated mod, and learn how to build and get safe batteries first. Your mech will be there.
Anna
Are You Using a Rewrap (Rebranded or Aftermarket) Battery?
- Learn what a rewrap cell is. If you are using rebranded cells, does that mean it is inferior, poor quality, or even dangerous? Which batteries are suspected to be rebranded batteries?
____________________
DON'T EVEN THINK ABOUT USING A MECH WITHOUT HAVING AND USING AN OHM METER.
I tried to help you out by supplying the info you need to be safe, but you haven't given me any confidence that you read or watched the material that I gave you. You are not ready to use a mech in any way, shape, or form ... let alone a dangerous hybrid-top mech. You're gonna blow your face off, kid! (No pun intended)
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I have the ohm reader, I only have to order the LG18650 HB6 batteries from the first link you give me, but it’s all in German word which I don’t understand at all...
I was getting my mod probably next week, so is better to be dumb now other than receive my mod with nothing I know about it and blow myself up, sorry for all. The battery was brought from my friend from a vape shop, I already tell him to return it to the vape shop.
What I have now is a nitecore charger, cotton bacon v2, a ohm reader, which left Clapton wires and batteries that I have to buy.
I was getting my mod probably next week, so is better to be dumb now other than receive my mod with nothing I know about it and blow myself up, sorry for all. The battery was brought from my friend from a vape shop, I already tell him to return it to the vape shop.
What I have now is a nitecore charger, cotton bacon v2, a ohm reader, which left Clapton wires and batteries that I have to buy.
I’m using Kanthal A1 22gauge 0.35ohm with 5/6wrap on my dotmod back in my own country. #Im studying overseas now but usually I use 24gauge 0.5ohm more than it(dual coils)Those Claptons are going to have a lot of mass metal (slow to heat up; gobbles up lots of battery energy).
I suggest simple coils in the desired resistance range for your batteries. The result will be faster ramp up time and less energy drain.
Vape UK
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Welcome and glad you joined.
Your vaping on the edge.
Might consider a back up battery charger in case the first one dies (Efest LUC V4 ?). Battery carrying case along with extra wraps. I'd go with the rayon wick, they are said to take upper temperatures nicely. A spare mod/battery sets are good too.
I'm confused, You say you don't then say you do have a way to measure resistance.
You're not being dumb, at all, asking questions & understanding how to use a mechanical safely before you do, is smart.
Clapton type coils have more metal mass which can cause slow heating especially if used in a dual coil RBA & a single cell mech.
Again I'm confused, you mention .15Ω in earlier posts then say .35Ω or .5Ω.
If your normal resistance range is .35Ω to .5Ω or above you can use a much higher capacity cell that will have much longer run time & still be safe with those resistance ranges.
Something like a 3000mah 15/20a CDR, Samsung 30Q , LG HG2, Sony vtc6.
I realise i left my reader in another place, and I found it fortunately. What I mean is a 30A battery maximum resistance range is .15Ω. The one I build before in my dotmod rda should be 24gauge kanthal a1 6wraps(dual coil), resistance of .32Ω.
I need to be clear before I use a mech mod, I don't wanna blow myself off...
I need to be clear before I use a mech mod, I don't wanna blow myself off...
I checked out that mod. I like it a lot. It is a nice device. If I wasnt looking at the Dominus 24 side fire I would probably go for one of those. Use the information here to keep yourself safe and maintain it properly. If you take care of it you will have it for years. Mechs are great, durable and reliable but the learning curve is steep on them. It is good that you came here first. This is a great place to gain knowledge. If people seem harsh it is because if you mess something up you can hurt yourself bad. If you are using it to quit smoking you are probably going to need about 4 batteries to get through the day.
Unfortunately, my country here don’t have any shops selling LG battery. I search the first two link that Topwater Elvis give me.
One is a uk website which selling 3.89pound each with 9pound shipping fees.
Another will be a German website selling 5.05euro each with 10.84euro shipping fees. I’m considering which website should I order from.
I find out there is a app call “Geek” which we can order plenty of produts with considerable price. Might worth a check there.(not suggest to buy battery over there)
One is a uk website which selling 3.89pound each with 9pound shipping fees.
Another will be a German website selling 5.05euro each with 10.84euro shipping fees. I’m considering which website should I order from.
I find out there is a app call “Geek” which we can order plenty of produts with considerable price. Might worth a check there.(not suggest to buy battery over there)
Which will be around 10euro each for that in German website i am searching for. For the another website only able to find Sony VTC5 not VTC5A.
The vtc5a is a good cell if your resistance range draws less than its 25a CDR.
If it draws 25a or more the only safe choice is a true 30a CDR cell or use a reasonable higher resistance range.
www nkon .nl has the lghb4 30 a CDR & vtc5a 25a CDR in stock.
If you're struggling with langue click ' English' in the top menu bar on their site.
If it draws 25a or more the only safe choice is a true 30a CDR cell or use a reasonable higher resistance range.
www nkon .nl has the lghb4 30 a CDR & vtc5a 25a CDR in stock.
If you're struggling with langue click ' English' in the top menu bar on their site.
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Yes, because I still have a kanthal 22gauge left here which give from my friend, so i probably building 22gauge dual coils. The resistance might flush down to 0.2Ω or below it, I have to check it after i build it. Before that, I don't wanna risk myself to buy a 25a CDR cell other than 30a CDR cell because from the coils comes with my vgod kits might have a resistance of .16Ω-.18Ω.
Those the information trustable? VGOD Pro Coils
Never trust the resistance of any coil, it must be measured accurately.
2 .16Ω or 2 .18Ω coils used in dual coil configuraton will result in .08Ω - .09Ω.
Not something safe to use with any cell using a single cell mech.
22 gauge dual coils using a single cell mech is going to have very slow ramp up / heat up time, the power required to fire that much metal will result in poor battery life.
2 .16Ω or 2 .18Ω coils used in dual coil configuraton will result in .08Ω - .09Ω.
Not something safe to use with any cell using a single cell mech.
22 gauge dual coils using a single cell mech is going to have very slow ramp up / heat up time, the power required to fire that much metal will result in poor battery life.
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What I can do now is wait for the product n check for the resistance of the coils. If not I don’t know what battery I should buy.
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