Vgod mech 2 kit batteries suggestion.

[Topwater Elvis]

Very simple, use higher resistances, thinner wire & give yourself more safety headroom and have a lot more cells to choose from.
There are no valid reasons to use ultra low resistances, especially being new to mechanicals.

 

[dcwy0001]

Very simple, use higher resistances, thinner wire & give yourself more safety headroom and have a lot more cells to choose from.
There are no valid reasons to use ultra low resistances, especially being new to mechanicals.

I will order one 30amp battery first incase the coils from the kit is Low. Then I will start to build 24gauge coil so I able to use a lot more choices of cells. Btw, I’m going to order from the third link which are way more cheaper than the others, Thank You for that! Really appreciate.

 

[r055co]

Which will be around 10euro each for that in German website i am searching for. For the another website only able to find Sony VTC5 not VTC5A.

VTC5A's are well worth it, you know the old saying you get what you pay for.

Yes, because I still have a kanthal 22gauge left here which give from my friend, so i probably building 22gauge dual coils. The resistance might flush down to 0.2Ω or below it, I have to check it after i build it. Before that, I don't wanna risk myself to buy a 25a CDR cell other than 30a CDR cell because from the coils comes with my vgod kits might have a resistance of .16Ω-.18Ω.

Those the information trustable? VGOD Pro Coils

I vape around 0.15Ω, my batteries stays cool and I tend to chain Vape. Personally I wouldn't use 22g, too much wire mass.

 

[dcwy0001]

VTC5A's are well worth it, you know the old saying you get what you pay for.



I vape around 0.15Ω, my batteries stays cool and I tend to chain Vape. Personally I wouldn't use 22g, too much wire mass.

I already ordered a 24gauge wire. So you using VTC5A’s for 0.15ohm?

 

[r055co]

I already ordered a 24gauge wire. So you using VTC5A’s for 0.15ohm?

Yep and like I said the batteries stay cool, VTC5A's handle them perfectly well.

 

[dcwy0001]

Yep and like I said the batteries stay cool, VTC5A's handle them perfectly well.

Unfortunately, VTC5A's is out of stock from where i order my LG HB6 batteries. They only have VTC5 left, so i have to wait for them to restock. Before they restock I'll be using HB6s which are safe for my build too.

 

[r055co]

Unfortunately, VTC5A's is out of stock from where i order my LG HB6 batteries. They only have VTC5 left, so i have to wait for them to restock. Before they restock I'll be using HB6s which are safe for my build too.

Good choice, the HB6's are only 1500 mAh so you'll be swapping batteries a lot but they're good performers. Just insure you stay above 3.5v, I swap out my batteries when they hit 3.6v - 3.7v.

 

[dcwy0001]

Good choice, the HB6's are only 1500 mAh so you'll be swapping batteries a lot but they're good performers. Just insure you stay above 3.5v, I swap out my batteries when they hit 3.6v - 3.7v.

Yeah, have to recharge them more often than VTC5. Personally I'm not a Chain Vaper, so i think it's okay for me.

 

[Topwater Elvis]

This thread is in the new members section where only safe & sane battery advice should be given.
The mention of using any cell above its CDR isn't safe or sane, especially in a thread where the OP is brand new to using a single cell mechanical.

4.2v / .15Ω = 28a.
The vtc5a is a 25a CDR cell.

The whole taking voltage drop into consideration is for experienced advanced mech users, not first timers.

 

[r055co]

This thread is in the new members section where only safe & sane battery advice should be given.
The mention of using any cell above its CDR isn't safe or sane, especially in a thread where the OP is brand new to using a single cell mechanical.

4.2v / .15Ω = 28a.
The vtc5a is a 25a CDR cell.

The whole taking voltage drop into consideration is for experienced advanced mech users, not first timers.

This is where we disagree, calculating at 3.8v is perfectly safe and sane because it's at around the actual numbers.

 

[BoogaWu]

This is where we disagree, calculating at 3.8v is perfectly safe and sane because it's at around the actual numbers.

I'd say not for newbies. I've been using mechs for almost 2 years and stay at 70% of battery CDR at 4.2. Everyone gets to pick their own safety margins, of course, but recommending going over to a newb isn't great IMHO.

 

[Topwater Elvis]

When dealing with mechanicals especially when the inexperienced are involved words like "around" can be dangerous.

It is alway best for safeties sake to use the fully charged voltage of 4.2v when calculating battery amp draw when using a mechanical.

It is never safe to exceed the CDR of any cell.

Even at 3.8v / .15Ω = 25.3a
Way too hard for anyone new to mechanicals to push any 25a CDR cell.
Always best to leave headroom for safety under the CDR.
Some experienced folks use 20% under, some 50% under, it depends on your own personal comfort / safety level.

 

[r055co]

When dealing with mechanicals especially when the inexperienced are involved words like "around" can be dangerous.

It is alway best for safeties sake to use the fully charged voltage of 4.2v when calculating battery amp draw when using a mechanical.

It is never safe to exceed the CDR of any cell.

Like I stated this is where we disagree about voltage, you'll never ever get 4.2v. The best I've seen is with 3.8v and that was on my pure silver mod with a direct to battery connection. Ever wonder why Sony, LG, etc (the real battery manufactures) list their batteries discharge at 3.6v & 3.7v? Point is it's all about accuracy, people should not get used to skewing the numbers and stick with the actual.

 

[BoogaWu]

Like I stated this is where we disagree about voltage, you'll never ever get 4.2v. The best I've seen is with 3.8v and that was on my pure silver mod with a direct to battery connection. Ever wonder why Sony, LG, etc (the real battery manufactures) list their batteries discharge at 3.6v & 3.7v? Point is it's all about accuracy, people should not get used to skewing the numbers and stick with the actual.

They are listed as 3.7 nominal, the voltage the battery stays at the longest. They are generally also listed in a range, like 3.2-4.2, where the battery operates at.
If you feel comfortable using your mechs this way, go for it. Advising a newbie to operate theirs in this manner isn't advisable.

 

[Topwater Elvis]

It is quite easy to get 4v - 4.2v if you don't use low sub Ω resistances & thick wire.

Your advice may fit well in a thread with & about experienced mechanical users, but not in a thread in the new members section with a user brand new to mechanicals.

Your 'about' 3.8v still draws 25.3a using a .15Ω, which is not safe or sane when talking with someone inexperienced using a 25a CDR cell.

 

[r055co]

It is quite easy to get 4v - 4.2v if you don't use low sub Ω resistances & thick wire.

Your advice may fit well in a thread with & about experienced mechanical users, but not in a thread in the new members section with a user brand new to mechanicals.

Your 'about' 3.8v still draws 25.3a using a .15Ω, which is not safe or sane when talking with someone inexperienced using a 25a CDR cell.

We agree with the higher Ohm coils getting closer to 4v, but we were addressing subohm.

Anyway we'll have to agree to disagree for me sticking closer to the actual numbers and staying with CDR is perfectly safe and sane. I myself stick with CDR.

 

[BoogaWu]

We agree with the higher Ohm coils getting closer to 4v, but we were addressing subohm.

Anyway we'll have to agree to disagree for me sticking closer to the actual numbers and staying with CDR is perfectly safe and sane. I myself stick with CDR.

I don't think anyone was saying you were being unsafe, but that telling a newbie to follow your example is.

 

[Topwater Elvis]

You aren't talking about 'actual numbers' you even said 'around' 'closer to' which by even the widest definition cannot be used in the same paragraph as accurate or safe when using a mech.

It is all about safety, especially in the new members section, in a conversation with a brand new inexperienced mechanical user.

When using a mechanical it is always without any doubt safer to use 4.2v in battery amp draw calculations.

 

[r055co]

You aren't talking about 'actual numbers' you even said 'around' 'closer to' which by even the widest definition cannot be used in the same paragraph as accurate or safe when using a mech.

It is all about safety, especially in the new members section, in a conversation with a brand new inexperienced mechanical user.

When using a mechanical it is always without any doubt safer to use 4.2v in battery amp draw calculations.

Stick an inline voltage meter in to get the actual numbers and you'll also see variations so "around" is actual.

Anyway like I said we'll have to agree to disagree since this discussion is going nowhere and I'd rather not get into a pissing contest.

 

[Topwater Elvis]

An inline voltage meter adds to the load & inaccuracy of determining the actual voltage drop.

Again, new member section, inexperienced brand new to mechanicals user, low subΩ resistances.
4.2v is always the safest value to use when calculating battery amp draw.

If you didn't want to get into a contest you would've never interjected your false assertions.
4.2v /.15 = 28a
3.8v /.15 = 25.3a
Neither is a safe or sane recommendation to a user that is brand new to mechanicals using a 25a CDR cell.