Vgod mech 2 kit batteries suggestion.

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r055co

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An inline voltage meter adds to the load & inaccuracy of determining the actual voltage drop.

Again, new member section, inexperienced brand new to mechanicals user, low subΩ resistances.
4.2v is always the safest value to use when calculating battery amp draw.

If you didn't want to get into a contest you would've never interjected your false assertions.
4.2v /.15 = 28a
3.8v /.15 = 25.3a
Neither is a safe or sane recommendation to a user that is brand new to mechanicals using a 25a CDR cell.
That's your opinion, I recommend checking out a few of Mooch's vid's.

Anyway like I said this is going nowhere so go ahead and have the last word if you must.
 
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classwife

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Please...our job is to help 'newbies' learn to swim before they head out to deeper water.


This is an 18 year old just learning with a mech.


Always be safe with your batteries - stay under the CDR for the battery and only buy from trusted/reputable sources.
Always use something that can read your build before you stick your atty on your mod and hit the switch.
I have been building since I got my first genisis atty in 2012 - every time I build I go through every step of checking things first before assembling and firing. Every time.


OP - you asked re positive and negative on the deck...did you mean which is which ?
If so , the positive will have an insulator around it at the base.

(and always carry your extras in a non metal case of some sort - never loose in your pocket)
 

dcwy0001

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OP - you asked re positive and negative on the deck...did you mean which is which ?
If so , the positive will have an insulator around it at the base.

(and always carry your extras in a non metal case of some sort - never loose in your pocket)

I knew it already, does the positive and negative matters when building my deck?
 
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Baditude

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I knew it already, does the positive and negative matters when building my deck?
With most decks, the positive post will be in the center, and the negative post(s) will be nearer the outer diameter.

aromamizer-rdta-3post-deck-2-600x600.jpg


If the deck has only two posts, one of them will be insulated which is the positive post. Doesn't really matter as far as coil orientation as long as one leg goes into one post and the other leg goes into the other post.
aromamizer-rdta-2post-deck-2-600x600.jpg
 

dcwy0001

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With most decks, the positive post will be in the center, and the negative post(s) will be nearer the outer diameter.

aromamizer-rdta-3post-deck-2-600x600.jpg


If the deck has only two posts, one of them will be insulated which is the positive post. Doesn't really matter as far as coil orientation as long as one leg goes into one post and the other leg goes into the other post.
aromamizer-rdta-2post-deck-2-600x600.jpg

Okay, thank you for your information.
 

KenD

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I was using the original coils from vgod which is Nicrome fuse Claptons with 6wraps 3mm inner coil diameter. So I could be choosing the 30amp 18650batteries from one of LG or Sony.

I have a question about the mod deck, what’s the difference between the positive side and negative side? What should I be aware of when I going to build my coils into my deck? Btw, thank you for all the information you’re giving me.
What is the resistance?

Sent from my Thor E using Tapatalk
 
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KenD

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I realise i left my reader in another place, and I found it fortunately. What I mean is a 30A battery maximum resistance range is .15Ω. The one I build before in my dotmod rda should be 24gauge kanthal a1 6wraps(dual coil), resistance of .32Ω.

I need to be clear before I use a mech mod, I don't wanna blow myself off...
No resistance reader will be accurate at reading resistances that low.

Sent from my Thor E using Tapatalk
 

Baditude

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Actually there are like a USA Ohm Meter, they're well within 0.005 or you can spend the money on a Fluke multimeter, they're pretty damn accurate.
I used to recommend the USA Ohm Meter, but they don't make them any more. :(

The Fluke multimeters are a couple hundred dollars up. Plus, they have to be re-calibrated routinely to maintain their accuracy.
 

r055co

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I used to recommend the USA Ohm Meter, but they don't make them any more. :(

The Fluke multimeters are a couple hundred dollars up. Plus, they have to be re-calibrated routinely to maintain their accuracy.
Yep, I've had my USA's tested and they've been dead on. Totally crazy that they've discontinued them, insane. When I heard that they did I found a site that sold me a batch, I don't advertise nor solicit but I will sell a couple to anyone who PM's me.

Anyway yeah Fluke's are expensive but extremely accurate but also a PiA to use when it comes to Vape gear.
 
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