vision spinner nearly dead. can i change the battery inside?

[mediocre toker]

I have two vision spinner vv batteries that are coming to the end of their lives. I used to get 2 days of vaping from each when they were new and now I'm lucky to be getting 6 hours of vaping between them.
I accidentally undid the spinner by a twisting motion whilst inside my pocket but luckily i managed to put it all back together again. But that in itself got me to thinking that maybe i could replace the internal battery component with a new one.
My question is in two parts:
Firstly what battery is inside? Mine is a 1300mah power source but i could not see a serial number on it and i dint really want to pull it completely apart just in case i broke it completely. Plus i needed it for vaping anyway.
Secondly. If it is possible to replace the battery inside, how easy is it to do? I'm pretty handy with most things and already make my own atomizers and juices so i thought, hell .why not try and replace the battery. I'm of the school of " If someone made it, it must be able to be unmade and stripped down to its component parts and repaired"
I've got a soldering iron and some solder but really am looking for some instructions on how to do this.
The alternative is to pay £22.99 for a new battery (35 bucks) and i need the two batteries for my all day vaping requirements.
Links to you tube vids would be great if there is any. I've just spent the last hour surfing for something that would help but to no avail.
So. Over to you guys
Hope you can help
cheers

 

[ziggytrix]

Button repair vid, not what you're trying to do, but she complains that it was very difficult to work with in general. You might contact her to see if she has any advice?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nKmIPlsrj3M

I wouldn't imagine the main battery component is going to be much cheaper than a new twist, and is certainly going to be much more difficult to source in small quantities, but if you look into it and find that my assumptions are wrong, please post back to let us know!

 

[mediocre toker]

Button repair vid, not what you're trying to do, but she complains that it was very difficult to work with in general. You might contact her to see if she has any advice?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nKmIPlsrj3M

I wouldn't imagine the main battery component is going to be much cheaper than a new twist, and is certainly going to be much more difficult to source in small quantities, but if you look into it and find that my assumptions are wrong, please post back to let us know!

Yes. I've seen this video but it only covers repairs to the button. I've left a comment for the video and hope she will follow up and answer my question or better still make a vid I'll keep you all informed of the progress, but I'm thinking that the main problem is going to be dealing with the twist mechanism at the bottom of the battery. It must be connected to the battery too. But like i said if it was made then it can be unmade as well

 

[mediocre toker]

Well. Just an update.
The spinner finally died so, i didn't think there would be any harm in opening that sucker up.
off came the top threaded section showing the circuit board with button and blue led.underneath is some rubber wadding to insulate from the battery. This just pops out. Underneath this is the battery.Underneath the battery is some more rubber wadding for insulation (about 30mm of it). Finally underneath that is another little circuit board that is the variable volt adjuster. This has a little notch in it and fits into the spinner right at the bottom of the casing.The whole gubbins is held together by the means of the rubber insulation at the top of the battery, the whole thing compressed onto the notch and held in plce by the rubber wadding. Pretty simple really. I measured the dimensions of the battery and it came in at 55mm long by 18mm diameter. It is connected to the board via a black and red positive and negative wires. Running from the circuit board are a white and a blue wire. These go through the whole battery carriage and are connected to the variable volt adjuster at the bottom of the battery carriage.the blue and white wires are wrapped round the battery and are held in place with tape.
I used the length and diameter dimensions and went on to Wikipedia to find a similar lithium rechargeable. The nearest i came up with was a 14650 it being 3mm smaller in diameter and 10mm longer.I figure it will fit easily for diameter and i could take out some of the wadding to get it to fit lengthwise. Also the mah isn't the 1300 I'm used to but comes in at between 950 and 1050. I think i should be able to solder this battery in no problem. However when i was fiddling with it the negative wire came away from the circuit board, and i cant remember where it attached to!!!!Anyone got a picture of the circuit board with wires attached so that i can attempt a fix. Much appreciated.Oh. Here's the batteries i ordered from eBay.Hope they fit. I'll update with some more progress shortly
2x Efest IMR 14650 950mAh Li-Ion Mn Battery 3.7V Flat Top E Cig Power 1050mAh UK | eBay

 

[DavidOck]

Sorry, no pics....

Examine the circuit board under a strong light, holding it at an angle to your eyes, sort of like looking across, not down at, the board. See if you can spot any hard edged solder, that may be it. I'd guess the board is flow or wave soldered, except for the wire connections. Use a good magnifier if you have one.

Good description! And good luck with your experiment. Keep the fire extinguisher handy

 

[AnsonJames]

The old Ego batteries are repairable and replaceable, not so much Twists and Spinners.
At $20 a piece I'd just forgo all the hassle and get another.

 

[mediocre toker]

The old Ego batteries are repairable and replaceable, not so much Twists and Spinners.
At $20 a piece I'd just forgo all the hassle and get a another.

£23.00 over here which works out at $35. The batteries are coming in at £9 for two. You do the math. For a simple soldering job (it seems) you save £20 ($30)

 

[DavidOck]

Certainly worth the try, then.

Have you looked into say Fasttech in China? They might have VVs cheaper.

Keep us posted!

 

[mediocre toker]

O.K.
I'll try the first new battery on the first dead spinner. It that works, I'll make a movie/blog with photos with all the necessary steps with my other spinner. Providing that it works and turns out to be safe of course. All the Necessary disclaimers will be attached to the document/movie. I'm not condoning that anyone try this
The batteries should be here tomorrow and I'll have them sufficiently tested (for my use) in a week or two.
I'll post the results whatever

 

[DavidOck]

Great! Hope it goes well, but even if it doesn't work, well, we can learn from mistakes as well!

 

[AttyPops]

Sure. On both fronts. Tried the soldering of the batteries by-passing the circuit board of the spinner (as recommended by a previous post) and found out something about myself. I cant solder for toffee. Just couldn't make the stuff stick to the wires. I found this to be really surprising because i can normally turn my hand to most things. Soldering just isn't one of them. YouTube videos never helped me on this either.
Yeah.
I'll let everyone know what the effects of a Vamo induced nicotine hit are to a partly disassociated nicotine user are providing i don't relent of course. It's Wednesday today. Skint. Tomorrow payday. Who knows what might happen if the Vamo doesn't arrive today.The postman's due any minute

OK...

I'm catching up and reading back. I don't suggest you solder onto a battery anyway. I can help you with the soldering stuff, but I won't help you solder onto a battery.

There's no need, since they are designed for touch contacts and to be swappable. So, if you're soldering a battery...there's a better way somehow...but I know that the internal stuff on eGo and spinners and super-mini's and such are soldered. However, you can do better in the e-cig department and do it the proper way.

Throw it out or mod it, but use proper batteries that you don't solder on.

OK, reading back figuring out what you are talking about.....

Are these the batteries with the tabs? I imagined there were a couple wires already attached to the batteries. Can you show us a photo of your battery and 510 connector? Hopefully the Vamo will turn up shortly, but if it doesn't we might have to talk you through it.

Yep, getting solder to stick to those battery tabs is pretty hard if that is what you were trying to do. I'd say get a couple of alligator clips...

Oh. The old..."I need to build an e-cig in the next hour" thing.

OK. Can do.

It would help to know if you have ANY of the following:
1) The alligator clips that fab suggested (2 of em)
2) another battery (like a swappable li-ion or IMR)
3) a 2 amp or better A/C to USB adapter
4) Solder
5) Soldering iron (20 or 30 watts)
6) Wire.
7) Battery clip or something with a battery connector in it (flashlight, old gadget laying around, etc)
8) Higher-ohm coil stuff (carto, rba, atomizer, etc). Like 2.5 to 3.0 ohms.

These are the batteries I got.2x Efest IMR 14650 950mAh Li-Ion Mn Battery 3.7V Flat Top E Cig Power 1050mAh UK | eBay I had already opened up the useless spinner to see if i could replace the battery.That's when the wire (the black one) came away.So i though i would.........................wait a minute i already wrote a thread about this.....http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-nearly-dead-can-i-change-battery-inside.html
Oh and yep I'll be getting a disposable tomorrow as once again the postman has failed to deliver the holy grail

Working that confined space with the tabbed batteries is not the way to go, IMO.

You have options though:
1) Just get the disposible and wait it out with little hassle. Costs a few $$
2) build an e-cig for 3.7 volt vaping on the fly. Good intro to modding. If you have stuff (see above) to work with.
3) Build a 5 volt PT...but you should have a wall wart of at least 2 amps. May work with USB 3.0 ports but not recommended.

So pick one to start....

 

[mediocre toker]

Thanx atty. Thought it would be a lot simpler than that. Should've known better. I'll go with the first option and buy a disposable. Thanks for coming here and letting this Thread know. Safety first and all that. Listen to atty people. Do not solder a wire onto a non tab top battery.

 

[GrnEyedPaCop]

Hey, Mediocre Toker, I'm a bit late on jumping on this post, but I hope you don't mind, I have a question. I've re-soldered many disconnected wires from Ego Twists, but only from the top of the battery up. Never having a battery die in 18 mts., I've always stopped any further poking around at the point where, while pulling gently on the battery, I'd feel resistance, assuming from a connection from the battery to the voltage dial.

I read your post where you dissect your Spinner (been waiting for a battery to die so I could dive into the same experiment). I've reread it a few times & don't see mention of what you did when you reached resistance from the battery coming out of the casing. I'm thinking that, maybe, since your battery was already dead, you just yanked. But, that would lead one to believe that would rip apart the dial connection. I'm still curious about, 1-how to remove the battery short of just yanking the dial connection & 2- have you found an alternate way of disconnecting the dial connection from the battery, maybe by somehow removing the voltage dial assembly, if possible.