VPX Cartomator Tank by NHaler - A Review and My Woes

Status
Not open for further replies.

CrimsonRain960

New Member
Jun 23, 2011
2
0
Florida
I debated writing this review for a couple of weeks now, and as this is my first post on this forum (multiple years of lurking, though), you can get a sense of how frustrated I've become. Why? The mini VPX cartomator tanks that I burned $55 on after reading glowing reviews and endorsements from long-time members, in whom I've come to trust almost implicitly.

I'll apologize for the inevitably long-winded nature of this review. The purpose of this is to generate empathy among those you who have shared these issues and to perhaps generate some advice for the predicament. Hopefully someone has something to say to me. Otherwise, I may have to see what refund options (if any) are available to me.

Firstly, a bit of history and a qualification of my frustration is in order. I've been doing the e-cig thing for approximately three years now. I have owned an M401, followed by the Prodigy V2, and finally earlier this year I sprung for the Darwin by Evolv. I am not a stranger to the many teething problems this burgeoning industry has had over the last couple of years. I have had many gripes, some shared by others and some unique to me. This review must clearly illustrate the latter, because everyone else seems positively enamored with their tanks, to the point that many of them have multiples.

Let's go over my experience with the cartomator tank thus far. The tank shipped on October 10th, and I received it a few days later along with a new shipment of cartomizers. Many were ordinary CE2s. Others were the original cartomizers with the spongy filler (which I've never had any semblence of success with, but that's an altogether different matter). Also included in my order were pre-dotted variants of the above two. With more than just passing excitement, I readied my new investment with one of the pre-dotted CE2s (jumbo sized) by placing the tank on the cartomizer and filling it up to near the bottom margin of where the top cap comes to rest. Immediately, I notice what I believe will be a serious problem; only one of the holes fits inside of the tank at any time (either the top dot or bottom dot, not both). It doesn't take a free body diagram to alert me to the fact that, unless I'm turning my unit upside down frequently, the decreasing fluid level is going to draw a vacuum with no way to equalize. Consequently, the liquid in the tank is going to very quickly stop filling the cartomizer. This is validated only minutes later when I begin to notice dry hits and, upon removing the top cap of the tank, notice the fluid level rapidly decreasing without the vacuum to hold it back. The cartomizer quickly floods.

"Okay," I say to myself, "This must have been dotted for one of the bigger cartomator tanks that have been out for much longer and whoever packaged it up didn't know this was for the new SS mini." There's no indication anywhere on Nhaler's website for compatibility of dotted cartomizer nor the ability to request cartomizers dotted for a mini or large tank. The only solution at hand requires clairvoyance on either my or the packager's part. Fine. Teething problems. I can deal, so far.

After a day or so of seeing if I can make the current CE2 work, I drain the tank and resolve to just try another cartomizer. Same procedure: pop it in, fill the tank, close the tank. Again, though, I notice something curious about the cartomizer I've selected. It's one of the originals (CE1s, I guess?) with the filler material, which have consistently sucked for me since I first started buying them. I thought the tank might resolve my issues with them. But before I can test that hypothesis, I'm puzzled by the placement of two dots on the bottom of the unit, contralaterally from one another. Without going through another anecdote, this presents the exact same problem as with the first cartomizer. Now I'm beginning to anger. This isn't a compatibility issue anymore; someone isn't thinking.

I try it for a day or two but eventually just take it out for its lack of functionality. I look through my stash of dotted cartomizers and notice that several share this same dotting pattern. Oh my God.

I find one of the short CE2s with properly drilled holes (one at the top and one at the bottom, opposite sides, and both fit within the confines of my tank). Sadly, I only ordered a couple of these, and if they prove to work, I would run out in fairly short order. I put it in and fire it up. I notice immediately that performance is orders of magnitude above the previous units, but something still isn't right. It takes a longer time, but I eventually get to dry hits and the realization that my fluid level isn't decreasing as quickly as it should be. I was a chain smoker of cigarettes. I'm likewise a chain smoker of my vaporizer. I burn a lot of juice.

But I don't care about this. I'm happy that not all is lost, so for a week or so I struggle with the currently described setup. The tank is a pain to fill, and taking the cap off still results in an equalization with atmosphere that can only mean air is not getting to the tank. juice floods the cartomizer whenever I fill it, and my hands constantly smell of concentrated apple cider. Eventually, the juice overflows have their way with my Darwin and it dies. I lose it for about two weeks to the repair site in Ohio.

I get it back and start using it again, but soon resolve to fix the equalization issues on my own. I look at the forums and decide I have two options: drill bigger holes or remove the black cap inside the cartomizer. I'm a graduate student, and am both poor and in debt. Switching to e-cigs has already failed to save me the kind of money I fantasized it would, and I have neither the time, interest, nor money to purchase a Dremel to fix my already expensive investment. Furthermore, I already bought pre-dotted cartomizers that I expected to work (surely someone does field testing, right?). I decide to lose that flexible black cap in the cartomizer, despite concerns about how quickly the unit floods when I remove the SS tank cap. I carefully extract it and reassemble my setup on the Darwin. Immediately it floods and I am left with coated hands, a soaked Darwin (which was just repaired), and the kind of rage only wrought by the realization of how much money one can spend on failure.

A point of interest: when I removed that black cap I had trouble as it caught on one of the edges of the top hole (dot). When I do finally get it out, I notice that whoever did the machining managed to drill the top hole straight into the black cap, so that the cap seals the hole and entirely negates its purpose. It's at this point that I've lost complete faith in Nhaler's machinist(s). I don't want to place undue blame, but if it came from the same people who generated the inscription below on the back of my Darwin, I can't say I'm surprised.

Darwin.jpg

I'm in the biomedical industry. I've used a hand mill and CNC mill perhaps twenty times in my life. It would be insulting to machinists to call me an expert. But I know how to avoid what happened above. I spent ~$250 on my Darwin, and I would have spent $20 more just to have them leave that out. It could have looked cool, but at the price point I quoted, I'm insulted. I'm more insulted that whoever does quality control at Nhaler let that through.

Just like a child screaming itself to sleep, I'm losing steam on this scathing review. I'll summarize the last couple of points. I tried switching juice, thinking maybe my VG/PG solution was too syrup-y and was causing my problems. Turns out it didn't matter; all-PG juice worked just as poorly. And I don't want to switch juices. I love my current selection.

In short, I have a tank that doesn't work. It doesn't work with a properly assembled cartomizer, a cartomizer that has been partly disassembled, and with a bunch of cartomizers that have functionless dottings. I honestly can't decide what's responsible: the tank, the cartos, or both. As it currently stands, though, I am filled with regret over my purchase.
 
Last edited:

Renzuli

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jun 27, 2011
2,219
601
North Las Vegas
Welcome , and sorry you had so much trouble with the tank . Do yourself a big favor , and just use regular carto's and atty's . I drip now , and to make it last longer between drips , I added some wicking material to my atty's ( about an inch long) now I can drip 12 to 15 drops and vape till I pass out . Then just add another 8 to 10 drops and keep on vaping . More flavor and vapor , than using the tanks and ce-2's . IMHO .
 

Huffelpuff

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 27, 2011
3,760
3,153
Philadelphia Burbs
So sorry to hear that you had such difficulty with the tank set up. It sucks - no other way to say it. It's frustrating that vaping costs so much time and energy and that oftentimes it is a let down.

Renz seems to have the right advice. My very limited experience with tanks hasn't been great. The potential for leaking outweighs their benefit for me and it's like performing heart surgery to try to refill without leaking juice into the catch cup and I'm always very careful with my mods.
 

strprswpr

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Apr 29, 2011
5,475
8,238
57
Bronx, NY
www.nymcdesign.com
I have 6 Cartomater Tanks from Nhaler.....Although I do punch my own cartomizers, I have never had any of the issues your discussing. That's not to say that they didn't happen....I'm just sharing my experience with Nhaler's Cartomater. Since using them, I have never had a flooded carto, never had a single leak. I suspect user error here. Please don't take what I say as a dig. If you need help....PM me. I would be glad to help you along....Even if you want to talk on the phone. I've used these tanks for a very long time and tanks are pretty much all I use now with the exception of mu UFS. I think that if you figure out the problem....You'll find vaping these tanks can be very nice. Let me know if I can help.
 

CrimsonRain960

New Member
Jun 23, 2011
2
0
Florida
Thanks all for the quick responses!

Renzuli:
I used regular cartos and atomizers before purchasing the tank. Atomizers were alright, but the first generation cartomizers left a lot to be desired, I thought. They never lasted more than a few days and always ended up tasting very burnt. I had thought I wasn't keeping them wet enough, but the problem persisted even when I added fluid in higher and higher quantities, until the whole thing just flooded. I have clear CE1s now that I've been trying out just to confirm my suspicions. The one I'm using has been kept very full and is still burning. Plus, the CE2s are the best vaporizers I've ever used, bar none. And I ordered a bunch of them when I found that out.

I like the tank idea because I believe the theory is sound. Not to mention, I smoke more than enough to justify having a reservoir. The Darwin, like my Prodigy before and my mini before that, has become a sort of breathing tube. Filling an atomizer every few drags gets obnoxious.

I could add my own wicking filler I guess, but there are reasons why I don't want to. Atomizers are fairly expensive anyway and rarely last me more than a week to a week and a half. I use gunk-forming juice and haven't found anything else that's smokeable 100% of the time. I'm not one of those guys with four different flavors running at the same time. The CE2s perform great, last a long time, require no modification, and are actually comparatively cheap. I love how they perform without a tank. Adding a tank should only increase the inter-refill smoking time, right?

Strprswpr:
No dig received. In your shoes I'd say the same thing: "this idiot just doesn't know what he's doing," especially since you've had such resounding success with it. Indeed, it's voices like yours that drove me to purchase this in the first place.

Respectfully, I don't know how much help you could provide. It's really a straightforward setup: slide the tank down around the ato/cartomizer until the holes can be seen inside the tank, fill the tank, and I should be set to go, right? The holes are already drilled for me.

If it worked with any of my ato/cartomizers (henceforth vaporizers), I'd chalk the rest up to manufacturing errors (just like DOA ones), but I can't get the thing to empty itself into any of my vaporizers. Now, I suspect that has a lot to do with where the holes are located. I really only have a couple right now that have (in my estimation) the proper pattern of hole drilling. And even those are marred by the fact that the top hole is drilled straight into the flexible rubber cap that seals off the chamber, which consequently seals the hole too. In these, the ones with one hole that fits inside the tank, and the ones with both holes at the bottom of the tank, I can see air bubbles escaping through the holes when I blow into it or draw really hard on it (intentionally trying to equalize the fluid levels inside and outside) but it absolutely will not do it on its own.

How do you have your vaporizers punched? I don't know if you ever ordered dotted ones from NHaler, but are your holes bigger or smaller? If you don't know you can just tell me the size and I'll do the comparison.

Also, the leakage really only happens when I'm using things outside of their design specifications. For example, when I'm operating it with the steel tank cap removed entirely, that flexible rubber cap removed from the CE2s, or am sliding the tank up and down the vaporizer tube for refills (removing that top cap can be really difficult). If that rubber cap hadn't been in the way of the top hole in the first place, though, then I think it would have flooded everything anyway. I read the advice that led me to do that somewhere in this forum. I don't know how it worked for that guy. As long as the vaporizer tube and accompanying tank stayed vertical, it was fine. As soon as I accidentally moved it around or laid it flat, the juice would run out of the tank everywhere. That's far too precarious a situation to tolerate.

The people with the most success seem to be those punching the vaporizers themselves. I am trying to avoid that for now. But at the same time the stuff NHaler sent me is not working. It might be something simple, so please tell me what works for you, but I really can't imagine how I'm screwing this up.

What follows is the problem I would like to see a solution for. Using NHaler's products unmodified doesn't work; the juice will not drain from the tank reservoir. Addressing what I think are the problems doesn't work either; the juice floods the vaporizer unless the tank is filled only about half way and is kept very close to vertical all the time. I need something that's more of a happy medium.
 
Last edited:

Vchick

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jul 18, 2010
6,372
5,317
NE Ohio
I received one of these tanks a few weeks back, the initial one included a punched carto which worked well as well as punching my own cartos. I puch mine using a drywall screw and hammer, just barely piercing the carto, then taking a pushpin or safety pin and gently pierce thru the batting.

I had a brief lesson at Vapercon on how to fill and since have modified my fill routine to;

Insterting the carto (minus the inner ring/plug) completely into the tank,

Turn it upside down, push down the battery connection end back down, enough have a small gap between the battery connection end and the cap of the tank to insert a syringe, or you can drip directly into it on a angle and completely fill the tank.

While still upside down I slowly push the tank down to where the battery connection can feed through the opening, and bottom of the carto is flush with the end of the tank. I then connect to my device as well as adding my drip tip. I also add a few drops of juice directly to the carto to get the carto to start wicking.

I also have learned to change carto's mid fill by taking a new carto, by stacking a new one underneath the current carto, at the battery end of the current carto, pushing them both through until the new one is in place and the old one it out of the tank.

I hope that you're able to work through this, this has completely eliminated my frustration that I was having with liquid flooding my cartos or not being able to completely fill the tank from the other end.

HTH, keep us updated!
 

strprswpr

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Apr 29, 2011
5,475
8,238
57
Bronx, NY
www.nymcdesign.com
Well....if you need help don't hesitate to get me. I'm pretty sure I can get you to a good place with these tanks. One thing I think you would need to do is punch your own cartos....Which is not that hard if you get the right tools. I have various punch jigs and they work well. 99% of all tank issues stem from the carto. I'd be glad to punch a bunch for ya. Gimme a call and let's get you straightened out......Once you get it down it's really simple.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread