VV vs VW

[Smallville]

I am sure there is a thread here somewhere that deals with this, but I have a newb question here. I am currently using an iTaste134 with either a ProtankII Mini, PTII, eVODs, or a smok PBC1, all of which work great. The question I have is for my next mod if I decide to buy one, do I need to worry about VV. My 134 is VW and I adjust that to taste just fine. I am thinking about getting a Tesla just cause it looks awesome, but I am thinking it will perform exactly like my 134, am I wrong?

 

[*deleon517*]

not sure what chip set the tesla has or the itaste134. How ever many devices will preform the same. What changes the way a device preforms is the atomizer you put on it and the ohm your using on it.

many will suggest the provari or a zmax/vamo because they are the most consistent with power out put when set to rms(root means square). I also think the mvp2 falls in that category. I apologize in advance if im off on some devices as its been a while since i picked up a vv/vw device or even read up on them. strictly mechanical here now.

 

[Bunnykiller]

if you are adjusting the Watts as you vape for best flavor, you will do the same for VV, pretty much the same effect except in a different numerical format. But, the VW automatically adjusts power for small changes in the coil as it ages ( considering that you keep the watts consistant) as the coil ages, it can vary by .2-.4 ohms as the carbon builds up on it. I have had new coils start at 1.5 ohms and after several days it creeps up to 1.7 - 1.8 ohms, after dry burning and a light scrubing with a very fine brass brush to remove the "crust", the ohms drop back down to 1.5 - 1.6.

 

[devauto]

The iTaste134 with a PT Mini on it sure does evoke a funny image in my mind! LOL

A VV mod will not be exactly like a VW mod. I have found that I prefer VW over VV because it is more consistent. As pointed out already, the VW mode will adjust for fluctuations in the resistance of the coil, while VV will not. Is it enough for you to notice, that depends, some folks do while others don't. I fall into the "do" category, and therefor prefer VW over VV ... It also provides consistency between tanks too, if you switch tanks frequently, VW allows for a more consistent experience across them all. Can you tell I like consistency ???

As always, YMMV!

HTH

 

[kittybite]

I'm not going to add anything useful to this thread other than to say that your avatar is freaking awesome, Smallville! That is all.

 

[Baditude]

My guess is if you get a mod which has both VV & VW, you'll end up using what you are already familiar with.

I use two Provari's and a first generation MVP. All three are strictly variable voltage. Never having used a mod with VW, I don't miss it. I purchase all of my factory-built coils between 2.0 - 3.0 ohms.

I can use the "ohm + 2 rule". (2.0 ohm + 2 = 4 volts) Whatever the ohm rating is I just add the number two and that is the ballpark voltage I'll need. I'll adjust the voltage slightly to taste for whatever flavor that I'm vaping.

But the majority of the time I adjust to taste. I know that I like fruit/fruity flavors at lower voltages and my coffee flavors in the middle range. My preference in voltage used may change thoughout the day, and I'll adjust in increments until I find the sweet spot I want. It's really not that complicated.

If some day I get a VV/VW mod, I seriously doubt that I would use the VW function. I'm familiar with VV and that's what I would be most comfortable using. I'm sure none of my flavors would taste their best at only one wattage setting.

 

[Smallville]

The iTaste134 with a PT Mini on it sure does evoke a funny image in my mind! LOL

Oh yeah for sure, whenever I have the mini or an evod on it at the shop, I always get jabbed at, but eh, to each thier own. The tanks work great on it!

But I am really in love with my newest tank, the SMOK PBC V1, it is putting out so much more vape than my PTII.

 

[tj99959]

The e-liquid only cares that you provide the proper amount of power to it, it really doesn't care what mathematical formula you use to get there. This morning I've been using two PV's, one is VW, and the other is VR (wrap the coil to any resistance that I want). The end result is the same ......... the taste that I want.
Worrying about which is best is nonsense. It only matters that it satisfies your needs.

 

[dice57]

On my VW device, I have it cranked up to max, 15 watts, and that's where I leave it, on my VV device, I crank it up till she errors out, then dial it down .1 volts so that it will fire, this will put it at max watts of ~15+ or - .3 watts. Either way I get the same great vape. On my mechanical, I shoot for .5 ohm build which puts me at 33-25 watts, depending on the voltage output of the battery.

All regulated devices are not the same. Some have better power management than others, giving one different consistencies in their vape. Your atomizer and the build you are using is pretty much the limiting factor on how many watts of volts you can vape at.

For me, I find VW more convenient, since I can just max it out and not worry which rba I am using, The only dialing in I do is with my build and wicking. As long as that is in good shape, the sweet spot is always max output.

 

[tj99959]

On my VW device, I have it cranked up to max, 15 watts, and that's where I leave it, on my VV device, I crank it up till she errors out, then dial it down .1 volts so that it will fire, this will put it at max watts of ~15+ or - .3 watts. Either way I get the same great vape. On my mechanical, I shoot for .5 ohm build which puts me at 33-25 watts, depending on the voltage output of the battery.

All regulated devices are not the same. Some have better power management than others, giving one different consistencies in their vape. Your atomizer and the build you are using is pretty much the limiting factor on how many watts of volts you can vape at.

For me, I find VW more convenient, since I can just max it out and not worry which rba I am using, The only dialing in I do is with my build and wicking. As long as that is in good shape, the sweet spot is always max output.

You must be using a gigantic air hole in your top cap to tolerate 33 watts. Either that or you have a cast iron throat.
My response is because many new folks are still to learn that air flow is as important as the amount of power, and that different quantities of air will require different voltage/wattage settings. 15 watts on the OP's off the shelf ProTank would be intolerable, while 15 watts on some RBA builds would be anemic.

 

[wonner]

...For me, I find VW more convenient, since I can just max it out ...

Am I missing something? How can adjusting to max watts be more convenient than adjusting to max volts? Isn't that two roads to the same destination?