Want to get started in sub ohms.

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GetVaked

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Any mechanical mod will do just fine. I use my Silver Bullet for .8 ohm coils. As far as RBAs go, I own three IGO-Ls, and a Pheonix, both are cheap.

As far as a cheaper mechanical to get you started, I recommend either a K100 from fasttech, or a Natural. But ultimately, I feel a cheaper mech will perform just as well as an expensive mech. The choice is yours, there are many to choose from these days.
 

bfitz

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I don't do the sub ohm thing but do have rebuildables/mechs. I would recommend the igo-l and the k100. Been my goto for a bit now and easy to set up/learn on. I also have the aga-t and the rsst. Like the aga-t and the igo-l a lot, rsst is kinda meh.

The batteries are also very important. Read up on what people consider the best for sub ohm set-ups. I use effest imr's, but I also stay around 1.2-1.5 ohm coils, don't know if these are any good for <1.0 ohm coils.
 
A mech mod of your choice (there's plenty under $50), an RBA of your choice (a bunch of solid ones under $15) and a multimeter. Also, some wick and some 28g kanthal. That's pretty much my sub ohm big cloud kit.

For example, a complete budget setup would be a K100 with an Igo-L (airhole drilled to 1/16) with 2 2mm wicks with a 4/3 wrap or 3/2 wrap 28g kanthal coil, and AW IMR Battery.

I also like the smoktech squid RBA for a smaller form factor over the Igo-L. You can either get that specific RBA or any of the other china made ones that look exactly like it. I have like 3 of them from all different makers and they are all pretty good. I prefer the smoktech one though because it has the thumb screws and holes in the posts.
 

Statistic

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Want to get started in sub ohms.

Grats on a sound decision ;)

What equipment do you guys recommend?

Sigelei #8
AGA-T2
IGO-L
A digital multimeter
28g Kanthal A-1
XC-116 ceramic rope (kiln treated!)
Good batteries (aw imr)
A good charger (intellicharger)

I am assuming that pretty much any decent mechanical mod and rebuildable will do?

AAAAAAND the ability to build a good coil. Crappy hardware exists, try to avoid it. Any "decent" mech and rba will do when you have the ability to assemble and maintain the necessary parts.
 

mike1239

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They pretty much covered it lol. My only recommendation would be to research whatever battery your going to use and don't go with 18350's.
I use the pannasonic cgr18650ch battery and they are amazing for my sub 1 ohm setups(which is all i do anymore lol) also use a ohm calculator to see what kinda amps youll be pushing with your setup so not to exceed your battery specs. heres a good one.
Ohm's Law Calculator

just be safe and research, and welcome to the cloud :p
 

ClippinWings

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Any mechanical mod will do just fine. I use my Silver Bullet for .8 ohm coils. As far as RBAs go, I own three IGO-Ls, and a Pheonix, both are cheap.

As far as a cheaper mechanical to get you started, I recommend either a K100 from Fasttech, or a Natural. But ultimately, I feel a cheaper mech will perform just as well as an expensive mech. The choice is yours, there are many to choose from these days.

In case you didn't know, the Silver Bullet is not mechanical.

It IS unregulated... and a pretty solid PV... but since it has wiring, it's not technically mechanical.
 

evgeny131

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DID legacy ZEN SW ZAU Poldiac.jpg
zen sidewinder camo....puresmoker legacy, poldiac uma...
zen atty u, short did....400 mesh.....8 ribbon kanthal....a multimeter or vamo or evic or svd to check ohms....
or any chinese clone, these r just my preferences
they all meter out to 0.7ohm and vape great
 

RottenJeeves

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Great thanks for all the advice guys. My mind has been blown.

I have the vamo currently right now. Its very particular. Anything that I have rebuild it likes to cut in and out. I also have the IGO-L with a 1.4 coil which for some reason the vamo needs to run at 5.5 volts to get a decent vape. I did also tried my hand at rebuilding a kanger pro tank. Which worked great for about 10 minutes. Now it reads 9.9 which I assume means she popped.

Thanks for the info guys I will put a shopping cart together.
 

ClippinWings

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Great thanks for all the advice guys. My mind has been blown.

I have the vamo currently right now. Its very particular. Anything that I have rebuild it likes to cut in and out. I also have the IGO-L with a 1.4 coil which for some reason the vamo needs to run at 5.5 volts to get a decent vape.

Before getting into building SLR coils... you need to figure out what that reason is and ideally be able to know how to determine what that reason is.

That's the biggest thing with SLRs and Mechanicals... everything they do follows some pretty simple mathematics... Nothing it does should ever happen "for some reason"... and for your own safety... you should always know what the reason is.

in my experience, there are 4 things that effect vape quality:

Wire Temp (many factors involved here, V, W, Ohms, AWG, Length, Coil Spacing, etc.)
Wire Surface Area
Juice Flow
Air Flow
 

RottenJeeves

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Before getting into building SLR coils... you need to figure out what that reason is and ideally be able to know how to determine what that reason is.

That's the biggest thing with SLRs and Mechanicals... everything they do follows some pretty simple mathematics... Nothing it does should ever happen "for some reason"... and for your own safety... you should always know what the reason is.

in my experience, there are 4 things that effect vape quality:

Wire Temp (many factors involved here, V, W, Ohms, AWG, Length, Coil Spacing, etc.)
Wire Surface Area
Juice Flow
Air Flow

point me in the right direction and I will gladly read/watch until my eyes bleed. :)
 

Light Seeker

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I have the vamo currently right now. Its very particular. Anything that I have rebuild it likes to cut in and out.

If its cutting in & out, chances are your 1.4 ohm coil is actually less, perhaps right on the threshold ... and your vamo won't fire. I've compared my vamo reading to my fluke dmm, the vamo is reading +.2 higher .... i trust my fluke :)
 
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