Want to Machine my own Mechanical

[Vapor Fiend]

So I posted a thread elsewhere on the forum but I want to link it here so I can get more views hopefully and reach out to people who may know the info I'm looking for.

I want to machine/turn my own mechanical tube mod, but don't know where to look for any technical drawings, prints, dimensions, 3d models, mastercam cad files, etc etc etc.. I'm a machinist by trade and have plenty of material and work on cnc mills and lathes all day. If anyone could point me in the right direction as to where I could get some of that info, it'd be greatly appreciated.


Link to my other thread:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...19-machine-turn-my-own-mech.html#post10301081

 

[ZeroDisorder]

Well, the most complicated part is the switch. I would look at some button teardowns of some known low voltage drop mods. I machined one about a year ago that would have theoretically been very good, but lacked in practical usability.(Wasn't buttery smooth)

*shrug* I'd start with aluminum for ease of machining a prototype then go from there.

My background mostly comes from machining flashlights.

 

[fourtytwo]

You are likely to get more responses on the modding forum Modding Forum

 

[r77r7r]

Just curious here- How much would it cost you to make some of the popular PV's that are common on ECF?

 

[curisu]

if you make one, you'll want to make a couple, and then someone will hear about it and post in the high-end mech thread, and then your inbox will be stuffed with custom orders.

make the initial investment and buy a couple high-ends knowing that you'll make your money back on some sales. the buttons I have direct experience with (i own and EDC them) are the GP Paps, Atmomixani Nemesis, Atmizoo Dingo. Each of them I bought not because they were pretty, but they had great reviews on their firing buttons.

The Paps has the shortest travel and best actuation - ~0.5mm. You can buy just the button from Domo Vapor co. if you want a world-beater button example.

The Nemesis has a variable-travel button depending on the battery/2c fuse/kick/tube combination you setup, and in terms of setup flexibility, it's the winner. I can get ANY atomizer to sit exactly flush, and dial-in my button travel to where I like. But it has the ....tiest lock - i have to spend all day spinning that damned ring to lock it.

The Dingo/Roller use the same button - i love it for the ease-of-locking; 90deg twist, done. but, it has the highest voltage drop of any of my mechs, and consequently never sees real all-day use. and the button section is i think 25.4mm (1") tall, so even in 350 mode, she's hard to pocket.

They all use different threading on the tubes, so that's really a design decision. Pick a pitch and go for it. the 510 connector itself is a no-brainer - just google it or take an RBA to a toolshop to find the tap and dies. threading a connector pin is also a design decision - most of the good ones use a silver/brass screw system to allow for some height differences.

If you can't find the CAD files, start from scratch. Almost all high-end mechs are 22mm in diameter, 23mm in some cases. the ID is 18.5+mm to accommodate 18xxx batteries and kicks, the rest is design and art. The button's only purpose is to close the circuit between the neg side of the battery and the body of the tube/mod.

In my experience, the button is the place to spend the most design time. If the button sucks, so will your mod.

Hope this helps.

 

[curisu]

two more things:
- I'm not a machinist, mostly a hack, but if you can, start with brass stock. it'll definitely be easier to sell one of those

- hit up some of the makers in the Modder/Accessory Suppliers subform. most started out just like you - super-small scale, even one-offs, that are now spun into full-time, world-wide gigs. they will be able to fill in technical blanks like the actual pitch of a 510 connector.

 

[ZeroDisorder]

The 510 connector is 7mm x .5. I just made a connector yesterday.

 

[Vapor Fiend]

two more things:
- I'm not a machinist, mostly a hack, but if you can, start with brass stock. it'll definitely be easier to sell one of those

- hit up some of the makers in the Modder/Accessory Suppliers subform. most started out just like you - super-small scale, even one-offs, that are now spun into full-time, world-wide gigs. they will be able to fill in technical blanks like the actual pitch of a 510 connector.

if you make one, you'll want to make a couple, and then someone will hear about it and post in the high-end mech thread, and then your inbox will be stuffed with custom orders.

make the initial investment and buy a couple high-ends knowing that you'll make your money back on some sales. the buttons I have direct experience with (i own and EDC them) are the GP Paps, Atmomixani Nemesis, Atmizoo Dingo. Each of them I bought not because they were pretty, but they had great reviews on their firing buttons.

The Paps has the shortest travel and best actuation - ~0.5mm. You can buy just the button from Domo Vapor co. if you want a world-beater button example.

The Nemesis has a variable-travel button depending on the battery/2c fuse/kick/tube combination you setup, and in terms of setup flexibility, it's the winner. I can get ANY atomizer to sit exactly flush, and dial-in my button travel to where I like. But it has the ....tiest lock - i have to spend all day spinning that damned ring to lock it.

The Dingo/Roller use the same button - i love it for the ease-of-locking; 90deg twist, done. but, it has the highest voltage drop of any of my mechs, and consequently never sees real all-day use. and the button section is i think 25.4mm (1") tall, so even in 350 mode, she's hard to pocket.

They all use different threading on the tubes, so that's really a design decision. Pick a pitch and go for it. the 510 connector itself is a no-brainer - just google it or take an RBA to a toolshop to find the tap and dies. threading a connector pin is also a design decision - most of the good ones use a silver/brass screw system to allow for some height differences.

If you can't find the CAD files, start from scratch. Almost all high-end mechs are 22mm in diameter, 23mm in some cases. the ID is 18.5+mm to accommodate 18xxx batteries and kicks, the rest is design and art. The button's only purpose is to close the circuit between the neg side of the battery and the body of the tube/mod.

In my experience, the button is the place to spend the most design time. If the button sucks, so will your mod.

Hope this helps.

The 510 connector is 7mm x .5. I just made a connector yesterday.

Right on guys thanks for the info. However, I'm not really looking to sell products. My work wouldn't really allow for mass production or even small quantity numbers, unless it was on my own time but I don't know about that.

I figured the tube threading would be whatever feels good. I have plenty of materials to work with and was probably going to start with some 2024 or 7075 aluminum. 6061 would end up being too soft for the thickness of the tube and connection cap style that I want to machine.

One thing for sure is that I do need to dissect some button assemblies to see how everything fits together. Along with the center pin and connections, etc. . I have some silly and wild ideas for buttons and little extra goodies that I've always wanted to see on a mech mod.

I looked around in the modders forum but I couldn't really find anything that would help me. But then again I probably just didn't look hard enough.


And just so everyone knows, I don't want actual prints or dimensions of products that other people made and sell. I don't want to steal any designs or copy ideas. The most I'm really looking for when it comes to any tech-drawings would be about the switch assemblies and lay out.

Thanks again guys.

 

[Vapor Fiend]

Just curious here- How much would it cost you to make some of the popular PV's that are common on ECF?

Depends on materials used and cost of said material. If you're machining or turning these on your own time, all it costs is your time + material.

But, probably far less than what it costs to buy one already made. Because then you're paying for material and labor.

 

[minimalsaint]

Just be careful. Don't make it a tube. Or make it with a 510 connector. Or a switch on the bottom, especially with magnets or a spring. Or a locking ring. Definitely don't engrave it with anything. The clone police will run you out of town.

 

[Vapor Fiend]

Just be careful. Don't make it a tube. Or make it with a 510 connector. Or a switch on the bottom, especially with magnets or a spring. Or a locking ring. Definitely don't engrave it with anything. The clone police will run you out of town.

Hahaha I'll be sure not to do any of those things whatsoever. Thanks for the heads up!

 

[ZeroDisorder]

Just be careful. Don't make it a tube. Or make it with a 510 connector. Or a switch on the bottom, especially with magnets or a spring. Or a locking ring. Definitely don't engrave it with anything. The clone police will run you out of town.

So, a hybrid box mod with capacitive touch sensor on the side controlling a relay/mosfet with a sliding electrical lockout switch. Got it.

PS: If anyone does this, I will sic the clone police on you.