Wanting to understand VW devices

[Vicshalls]

I keep seeing all over the place VW devices getting higher and higher wattage. I am just trying to understand why. I dont use VW so I am sure that is why I dont get it. I use a VV and seems no matter how I build a coil I can never vape over 3.6V. If i do every thing tastes burnt. I see people talking about vaping at 4.0 and higher and I just dont get it. Again cause i get that burt taste. So why would 100W device even appeal to me? And I do know there is a diffrence between Watts and Voltage before you even go there. lol I love my device and not looking to get anything new and pretty, just wanting to understand is all. Thanks.

 

[CreepyLady]

I totally get what your saying - Until I starting RBAs/RDAs and mechanicals I questioned the exact same thing. The easiest explanation I can give is that things do perform differently with different RDA coil builds than any clearo/carto/cartotank I ever used - even if I rebuilt it myself. Its a whole different beast in a whole different world.

For an example I used to use 6.5 watts on MVP2 + Evod 1.8 Ohm, or if in volts around 3.4. Now - currently on Reo +RM2 I have 0.8 Ohm and 4.2 Volts which puts me at 22 watts - WAY over where I was using a different style of device and its not even close to burnt. But I also have a totally different area to build, different airflow, etc a lot of factors play in to when high watts will and will not work.

I

 

[Shootist]

It's all about the resistance of your coil. You are right, IMHO, that a good vape, good flavor and good vapor, is gotten somewhere around 3.3 to 3.9 volts. Maybe on the odd chance you are using a thinner e-liquid or a great wicking wick you might be able to get over 4 volts.
Otherwise all you get is a HOT vape and a burnt taste and throat.
I have run my Provari up to 4.5 volts with a 1.4 ohm coil but only for one or two draws. Then it is back down to my normal 3.4 to 3.6 volts.
If I use a slightly high ohm coil, 1.8+, then I might make it over that 4 volt setting. But I still find the best vape is around the 3.5+/- volt setting.

If you do the math, Ohms Law, for the wattage you are using on a regular resistance coil, 1.3 to 2.2 ohms, you will be somewhere in the 7.5 to 11 (Maybe 12+) watts.


But if you lower the resistance to below 1 ohm then the wattage goes UP for the same voltage that you are using.

If you used a .5 ohm coil at that same 3.6 volts the wattage would be 25.92 watts. If you bumped the voltage up to 3.9 then it would be 30.42.

If you lowered the resistance down to something like .35 then you would have 37 watts for that same 3.6 volts and 43.45 watts for 3.9 volts.


In my opinion all this hype of higher wattage devices is just that HYPE and of course the show offs that Cloud Chase.


There is a Rip Tripper video about the Gi 2 box mod that does 100 watts. He was vaping a .3 ohm coil at 45 watts. That equates to 3.67 volts. He did bump it up to 75 watts and then coughed his lungs out after taking a vape.

There are some that vape at higher voltages but they only do that for a short period of time to get the most CLOUD they can.

 

[Ryedan]

I keep seeing all over the place VW devices getting higher and higher wattage. I am just trying to understand why. I dont use VW so I am sure that is why I dont get it. I use a VV and seems no matter how I build a coil I can never vape over 3.6V. If i do every thing tastes burnt. I see people talking about vaping at 4.0 and higher and I just dont get it. Again cause i get that burt taste. So why would 100W device even appeal to me? And I do know there is a diffrence between Watts and Voltage before you even go there. lol I love my device and not looking to get anything new and pretty, just wanting to understand is all. Thanks.

You don't necessarily need a VW device or higher voltage to increase your power level, mechanical mods allow you to do the same thing by drawing more current (amps) at battery voltage (between 4.2 - 3.6V) by lowering your coil resistance. The amount of heat your setup produces is mostly dependent on the watts you're making.

As CreepyLady said, the device you're using and the way you set it up make all the difference. You'll never get a clearo to give you a clean hit at 50 watts, but you can easily set up a Trident dripper for example to do it. It's a very aggressive vape with loads of flavor and vapor and it's not for everyone, but for those who like high power vaping there is nothing else that compares.

 

[Shootist]

You don't necessarily need a VW device or higher voltage to increase your power level, mechanical mods allow you to do the same thing by drawing more current (amps) at battery voltage (between 4.2 - 3.6V) by lowering your coil resistance. The amount of heat your setup produces is mostly dependent on the watts you're making.

As CreepyLady said, the device you're using and the way you set it up make all the difference. You'll never get a clearo to give you a clean hit at 50 watts, but you can easily set up a Trident dripper for example to do it. It's a very aggressive vape with loads of flavor and vapor and it's not for everyone, but for those who like high power vaping there is nothing else that compares.

Smoke and mirrors.

 

[tj99959]

We tend to think in terms of volts/ohms/wattage when in reality vaping is about thermodynamics, and ohms law is only one small part of that equation. Air management and wicking trump ohms law every time, and that's why high wattage vaping works.

Think of it like the thermostat in your car engine. If your thermostat was stuck open your car would run cold, if stuck closed it would run hot (wicking). If your grill got all plugged up with grime & bugs the engine will run hot, if to much air gets to the radiator the engine will run cold (air flow).

It's no different than a pan of boiling water, the only way to make the water get hotter than 212 degrees is to let it boil dry. Steam can get much hotter, but water can't. Quantity of steam produced will keep the temperature of the steam down, and that requires more liquid and more air.

 

[Ryedan]

Smoke and mirrors.

That would be vapor and mirrors in this case

 

[Ryedan]

We tend to think in terms of volts/ohms/wattage when in reality vaping is about thermodynamics, and ohms law is only one small part of that equation. Air management and wicking trump ohms law every time, and that's why high wattage vaping works.

Think of it like the thermostat in your car engine. If your thermostat was stuck open your car would run cold, if stuck closed it would run hot (wicking). If your grill got all plugged up with grime & bugs the engine will run hot, if to much air gets to the radiator the engine will run cold (air flow).

It's no different than a pan of boiling water, the only way to make the water get hotter than 212 degrees is to let it boil dry. Steam can get much hotter, but water can't. Quantity of steam produced will keep the temperature of the steam down.

That's a great analogy TJ

 

[Baditude]

I've always preferred a cooler vape and never had interest in doing high wattage vaping. I said I'd never do sub-ohm coils. I was perfectly happy with my cartotanks with 2.5 ohm coils. Then I got a Kayfun Lite + rebuildable tank atomizer and used that on my Provari at 1.2 ohms. Great vape.

Recently dug out my Silver Bullet mechanical and put a dual coil 0.5 ohm on a Patriot rebuildable dripper. Had the air holes drilled out larger. Same great flavor but with tenfold the vapor production and still a cooler vape.

Never say never.

 

[tj99959]

I've always preferred a cooler vape and never had interest in doing high wattage vaping. I said I'd never do sub-ohm coils. I was perfectly happy with my cartotanks with 2.5 ohm coils. Then I got a Kayfun Lite + rebuildable tank atomizer and used that on my Provari at 1.2 ohms. Great vape.

Recently dug out my Silver Bullet mechanical and put a dual coil 0.5 ohm on a Patriot rebuildable dripper. Had the air holes drilled out larger. Same great flavor but with tenfold the vapor production and still a cooler vape.


Never say never.

And use up tenfold the amount of juice

 

[scscheib]

Same here! I had no interest either. Just this past Wednesday I was in the local shop and got talked into trying it. Bought a Quasar dripper and built a coil at about .85 ohms and WOW! Flavor and cloud like never before. One caveat I've noticed is I must lung hit in order to get the expected result. Mouth hits produce little vapor but good flavor. Im sure other devices and coil setups would change that which produces reason for this wonderful forum.

 

[scscheib]

And use up tenfold the amount of juice

Yes, I forgot to add that part. My dripper bottle needs refilling much more often, but its worth it to me.

 

[Baditude]

And use up tenfold the amount of juice

True. I've recently dropped down to zero nicotine in my e-liquids. I've found that simple straight vegetable glycerin (Vg) has a nice sweet flavor all of its own. Cheap to buy at Walmart or CVS pharmacy. May not be for everyone, but at this point its all about the inhale/exhale and hand-to-mouth addiction more than the nicotine. Works for me.

 

[KurrptSenate]

VW: regardless of what you build is (resistance) or the battery life remaining, the chip will dictate the voltage based on resistance to get that wattage (power)

it's different to VV because the build of your coil will directly effect the wattage your vaping at. Unless you have a power calculator, you'd have no idea what wattage you're vaping at

don't get any crazy ideas about max power setting and what can or cannot taste "good". It's completely dependent on your air flow, your build, and whether your wick can keep up with coil at that power setting

 

[Asbestos4004]

I truly never thought I'd see the day when baditude joined the ranks of us hooligans. I never thought I'd want anything more either. My provari and a carto tank was the apex for me.

Then came the kayfuns....then the taifuns........then the mechs.......then the drippers..........

These days, I leave the house with 2 set ups. A provari with either a kayfun or a taifun, and a Nemesis with a TOBH or a Stillare. Usually they're between .3 and .4 ohms. Needless to say, I get it now. I really enjoy the variety and tinkering aspect. Its also helped go from 18mg down to 3mg.

 

[KurrptSenate]

I think dabbling in dual coils you really see the limit of the provari. you want more wattage/power to have those coils become more responsive. in that search, you'll gravitate towards a setup with a higher amp limit.

I can't go back to my taifun gt because this magma is too darn good.

 

[tj99959]

Actually I ended up going a different direction. I was only a month into vaping when I discovered the joys of dripping, and that was long before the days of RDAs and sub ohm. My little atomizer of choice (good luck trying to find one these days) on a mechanical mod was perfection. So I wasn't looking for a better vape when I started looking at RDAs, I was just looking for self reliance, and a way to sustain what I already had as more and more places stopped stocking my atomizer of choice.

I've tried all of the 'latest & greatest' RDAs and builds, but nothing gives me that same satisfaction that I got from those old atomizers except an A7/A7 mini with a 2.2-2.4 ohm build in it. Again, it's nothing more than matching the thermodynamics to get my vape of choice.

The added advantages are that I get 3 hits/drop instead of using up 3 drops/hit, and a little 18490 provides all the power I need.

 

[Vicshalls]

All very interesting. Thank you all for the responses. I too find it weird to see baditude chime in. Lol I have a taifun and a kayfun and no matter what I do they burn. Get a few good draws and then burn. It's all good though. I don't give up. Again I really do appreciate all yall wisdom. Got to learn something new.

 

[Shootist]

All very interesting. Thank you all for the responses. I too find it weird to see baditude chime in. Lol I have a taifun and a kayfun and no matter what I do they burn. Get a few good draws and then burn. It's all good though. I don't give up. Again I really do appreciate all yall wisdom. Got to learn something new.

If on both your TF and KF you are getting burnt hits after 2 or 3 good hits then one of two things are happening.

1) You aren't wicking properly.

2) You have the voltage/wattage set to high and see #1. But even with a proper wick to high a voltage/wattage will eventually give you a burnt taste.

You may be using to much or to little cotton. You may be making the tails to long which will cut off the flow of juice through the juice channels to the wick.

 

[Vicshalls]

All very interesting. Thank you all for the responses. I too find it weird to see baditude chime in. Lol I have a taifun and a kayfun and no matter what I do they burn. Get a few good draws and then burn. It's all good though. I don't give up. Again I really do appreciate all yall wisdom. Got to learn something new.

If on both your TF and KF you are getting burnt hits after 2 or 3 good hits then one of two things are happening.

1) You aren't wicking properly.

2) You have the voltage/wattage set to high and see #1. But even with a proper wick to high a voltage/wattage will eventually give you a burnt taste.

You may be using to much or to little cotton. You may be making the tails to long which will cut off the flow of juice through the juice channels to the wick.

I am sure it is my wicking. I just can't seem to get it right. I use yarn and separate it. I have done 1 thread all the way up to using all 4 and have even gone down on the voltage to 2.9 and it burns. I have even got so far on my gs as to not put the wick through one of the holes and it still gets dry. Lol I end up covering up the air hole flood it some and I am good to go again. Lol always a work around. Anything to keep me off the cigarettes.