I was using it with a atty and cart combo, dripping 2-3 drops onto the atty frequently, for 3 days or so until today. After taking a drag I noticed that the atty was still making vapor and was becoming really hot even after I released the blue button. I immediately unscrewed the bat from the atty, dropped some juice on the atty fearing that I had burnt it out and instead the 750ma Riva battery will not turn on, and has no reaction to connecting it to the charger, with no blue lit button when depressed !! What the hell happened ?
What happened my my Riva bat?!!
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Sounds to me like bat had a heart attack (it's dead). My recollection from some readings in battery university is that protective electronics exist to "kill" them when a failure condition is sensed. Readings there (in comments is my recollection) is that voodoo required to restore them but short supply of witch doctors with necessary knowledge of revival mix. There is a member named Scottbee that seems to know some voodoo. You might see if you can get a reply/suggestion from him - or check his posts. Checking posts may take a while but lots of useful info if you're inclined in those directions.
Just behind the button of the Riva is circuit board. For most people, getting to it will destroy the bat. Actual cell of battery in a 750 Riva is about 1.7 inches. That is, bottom 1.7 inches of bat container is lithium stuff. Above that to the 510 connector is circuit board, LEDS, micoswitch, soft button you push, etc. If you don't wish to fool with revival - the top part - 510 connector - can be removed and used in making a mod of some type.
Maybe one more thing. Li-ion bats can overhead and can potentially explode. (So I read as I haven't personally experienced heat/explosion.) Protection circuit is to prevent the heat/explosion condition. What you described sounded like a stuck microswitch - open - and other electronics sensing a short.
Ok, I removed the rubber button , so im looking into the casing ,and this had no effect on the battery still being on, as when I screw on a carto it still fires it up. The white activator inside that normally sits under the external rubber one can still be pressed down , is it still possible that it is stuck slightly ? Any suggestions?
Ha! you seem to have one of the few Failed in closed position(most simply stop working)...I would be careful...you may be able to fix but likely not and for most people( w/o a microscope and very small precision soldering tip) cannot fix them...in that case if your brave(I wouldn't) you have spare parts...Scottbee is an electronics guru of sorts and has mad skills and a full workshop...most will not be able to duplicate their mods or repairs...not that dismantling an ego or riva is that hard but you must understand there is a small amount of risk involved...and with that said Good Luck whatever you do
Don't quite understand how you removed the button without cutting into bat. Maybe without button cannot be revived. Madman right, all is tiny and very hard to see much less work with. That it fired when carto put on does suggest micoswitch is "on" all time. But why no LEDs lite is confusing to me. Need a guru. But remember - you can solve whole problem by just buying another. About 12 bucks at Liberty-Flights - maybe cheaper somewhere else. On saving connector - couple of possibilities. One - take a small pipe cutter like you might use to cut half inch copper. Cut at about 1.7 inches from bottom. (1.7 inches is about 45 mm. Bat inside is labeled 13450 2.41 Wh. The 45 in that number means 45 mm.) If lucky in this approach you might end up with circuit board in place and a red and black wires coming from board. Wires are quite small. But with the wires you might be able to mod a situation where you go to ordinary 3.7v li-ion bat. You would have a mod where RIVA board provides the protection and an led lit button. But if microswitch is bad it will be bad with mod also. Second would be to go after 510 connection alone. Get lithium stuff away but cutting bat maybe 1 inch from bottom and pretty much pulling real bat from top part. Then work on top part by a bit of heat at joint of gold whatever color below button hole. Wiggle, move, etc. and gold part (connector) should separate from other colored body/bat shell. You then have a part that you could have purchased at about two fifty. But you will know what is inside those - what I think is - amazing little devices that keep you away from the devils. Good luck. See any heat or smoke in process - get away.
Dill, first of all, did you check your atty (on a multimeter, NOT on another battery)? Is it dead? If it shorted, it might have killed your Riva. Sorry.
But since your Riva seems to be alive, and the problem seems to be with the button, it is likely that some ejuice got inside the battery and is messing with the circuitry. The button on the eGo/Riva/Tornado batteries is not sealed, and if you're not careful, the ejuice can get inside. If that's the case, just get a new battery. You really should have several, anyway. They are cunsummable (~250 charges or so) and they do fail. You can get a couple of spares at LF for 25 bucks shipped. Do not attempt to repair it unless you're Scottbee.
That said, how old is your battery? Is it still under warranty? If so, contact LF. They stand by their products.
But since your Riva seems to be alive, and the problem seems to be with the button, it is likely that some ejuice got inside the battery and is messing with the circuitry. The button on the eGo/Riva/Tornado batteries is not sealed, and if you're not careful, the ejuice can get inside. If that's the case, just get a new battery. You really should have several, anyway. They are cunsummable (~250 charges or so) and they do fail. You can get a couple of spares at LF for 25 bucks shipped. Do not attempt to repair it unless you're Scottbee.
That said, how old is your battery? Is it still under warranty? If so, contact LF. They stand by their products.
The switch is built into the circuit board, which is inside the battery connector
see here (eGo example):
This connects to the battery and casing like this:
The circuit by itself looks like this:
Only slightly different for the Riva battery
With a bit of soldering, you can replace the Riva connector and circuitry with the eGo parts. I haven't tested it, but I believe this turns it into an eGo battery with the same voltage.
The battery connector is press fit into the casing, and will come out with a bit of pulling/twisting force.
I used a pair of vice grips with some material in the jaws to protect the battery connector, and just pulled on the casing by hand. If I had a bench vice with timber jaws I'd have used it instead I guess.
If you are replacing just the connector and circuit, cut the wires as close to the circuit board as possible before you take the connector all the way off, and leave the battery in place. This means you will only have to cut the wires of the new circuit and solder 2 simple joints, instead of 3 fiddly ones.
see here (eGo example):
This connects to the battery and casing like this:
The circuit by itself looks like this:
Only slightly different for the Riva battery
With a bit of soldering, you can replace the Riva connector and circuitry with the eGo parts. I haven't tested it, but I believe this turns it into an eGo battery with the same voltage.
The battery connector is press fit into the casing, and will come out with a bit of pulling/twisting force.
I used a pair of vice grips with some material in the jaws to protect the battery connector, and just pulled on the casing by hand. If I had a bench vice with timber jaws I'd have used it instead I guess.
If you are replacing just the connector and circuit, cut the wires as close to the circuit board as possible before you take the connector all the way off, and leave the battery in place. This means you will only have to cut the wires of the new circuit and solder 2 simple joints, instead of 3 fiddly ones.
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try a blast of air from a can. my dad has an infinity, and it was stuck in the on, burned a carto, melted a driptip stunk his house up. I grabbed a can of air and blasted the button, all was better.. apparently he'd gotten some juice on the button and it stuck in the on position.
All this info make me want to get into mods! On another note,as suggested I contacted Liberty Flights regarding the batteries and was told to mail them back in the envelope that they were going to send over to me, they would look at them and see what they could do. Well, yesterday ( monday ) I received the envelope and inside it contained 2 brand new Riva batts !! Absolutely amazing service. It's a good thing too because my skills as a modder are non existant!
Thanks guys for all the help!!
i smile now... )
Thanks guys for all the help!!
i smile now... )
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The switch is built into the circuit board, which is inside the battery connector
see here (eGo example):
This connects to the battery and casing like this:
The circuit by itself looks like this:
Only slightly different for the Riva battery
With a bit of soldering, you can replace the Riva connector and circuitry with the eGo parts. I haven't tested it, but I believe this turns it into an eGo battery with the same voltage.
The battery connector is press fit into the casing, and will come out with a bit of pulling/twisting force.
I used a pair of vice grips with some material in the jaws to protect the battery connector, and just pulled on the casing by hand. If I had a bench vice with timber jaws I'd have used it instead I guess.
If you are replacing just the connector and circuit, cut the wires as close to the circuit board as possible before you take the connector all the way off, and leave the battery in place. This means you will only have to cut the wires of the new circuit and solder 2 simple joints, instead of 3 fiddly ones.
Great pictures. Thank you. In picture 2, where single lead out wire is on left, the red wire seems to be connected to a point just left of one of the LEDs. In picture 3, where single wire on right, the connection point seems to be to the one of 4 corners of the micro-switch. (Just above the "2" in writing on board that seems to say "EGO_02".) Is the single wire lead out (red) connected just to right of "D2" (i.e. I think short for diode 2) or is it connected to part of micro-switch? Button pictured does not seem like the button of Riva 750 mah bats that I purchased from L-F. I think L-F calls these EM Rivas. These EM Rivas (claimed to be 750 mah) are "unregulated" bats. That is, "straight" 3.7v devices. For the EM Rivas I get 4.2v (unloaded) just off charger declining to 3.4v just prior to cut-off. For "regulated", unloaded voltage just off charger is ~3.44 and is ~3.4 just prior to cut-off. (IMO - "unregulated" provides superior vape.) I have disassembled an EM Riva and the red single wire is definitely not connected to corner of the micro-switch. Circuit board looks identical to your pictures. So, am wondering is how the red single lead out is connected determines if bat is "regulated" or "unregulated". Do you know what the unloaded voltage of the style bat and board that you picture is? The bat that was connected to the Riva I disassembled had writings of "13450 2.10Wh" and "+ C11010065" on it. Did your bat have writings on it? What, exactly, was written on it - if anything?
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