What happened to Kangertech?

[Myk]

Dripbox (I have 1 and 160) could've caught on if they would've spent any amount of time making a BFRDA for it. The modular coil thing was interesting but everything else about the rda sucked.

If you don't take your SubTanks completely apart you shouldn't need many spare parts. I think I've used one spare gasket in all these years.

 

[Grimwald]

If Kanger would start making the AFC base for the Protank II again, I would have more of them in use.

 

[Beamslider]

The Toptank mini entire kit is in stock for $22 at fasttech. Can't really complain about that price considering it is the complete kit.
$22.41 Authentic KangerTech Toptank Mini Sub Ohm Tank Clearomizer - 4ml / 0.5ohm / stainless steel + glass at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

And for replacement glass, these are great and hold more ML of juice
$7.31 Iwodevape Replacement Glass Tank for Aspire Cleito Clearomizer (5-Pack) 5-pack - authentic / 5ml at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

 

[chellie]

I'll be trying a STM soon. It just got shipped from FT. If I like it as much as a lot of people do I'll probably get more. They have them for $22 at FT.

Normally discontinued stuff gets sold off cheap but I think that might have already come and gone for the STM. There are hardly any out there in the USA. I just looked at spare parts and it seems like it would be more cost effective to buy complete tanks at this point. Are there any particular parts you would recommend getting more of?

Does the RBA give the same vape quality as the drop in heads?

I use the toptank mini and really REALLY like it. Basically the same but it fills from the top. The RBA for sure has better flavor and durability but there is nothing wrong with using the drop in coils if you prefer. I think they will eventually get discontinued though. If you are going to venture into making your own coils - I would get extra rba pieces - fasttech has them. The RBA piece looks like a regular coil head piece and you are able to change out the coil and cotton as needed. I have purchased quite a few. I use 5 or so that I keep assembled and I carry one with me so that if my coil burns out or something it is easy to swap. And I have 5 put away just in case any of them break. A lot of folks just build as needed.

I'm a bit klutzy sometimes and drop things so for me the Rba pieces sometimes go bad. The other part that has gone bad on me is the bottom airflow piece.

So I would recommend 2 extra airflow pieces, 2 extra rba pieces and some extra glass and o-rings. Fasttech has them all.

I do not do any fancy coil builds - just regular kanthal or SS316L and it is very easy. The coil ends are held in place with 2 screws (they just tuck under the edge of screw), then you cut off the excess and put cotton through the coil, put juice on the cotton, screw the cover on the rba piece and then screw the tank back on.
This is the video I watched - he shows you up close and speaks clearly

One more thing - I also bought premade coils -- we can give you links. They are not expensive at all and you can use them while you figure out how to do the coil youself or you can just continue to buy premade ones. They come between 20 and 100 to a package.

 

[Kickingthesticks]

The Toptank mini entire kit is in stock for $22 at Fasttech. Can't really complain about that price considering it is the complete kit.
$22.41 Authentic KangerTech Toptank Mini Sub Ohm Tank Clearomizer - 4ml / 0.5ohm / stainless steel + glass at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

And for replacement glass, these are great and hold more ML of juice
$7.31 Iwodevape Replacement Glass Tank for Aspire Cleito Clearomizer (5-Pack) 5-pack - authentic / 5ml at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

Can't remember if the top tank and subtank shared same glass. Would that fit the subtank?

 

[englishmick]

I use the toptank mini and really REALLY like it. Basically the same but it fills from the top. The RBA for sure has better flavor and durability but there is nothing wrong with using the drop in coils if you prefer. I think they will eventually get discontinued though. If you are going to venture into making your own coils - I would get extra rba pieces - fasttech has them. The RBA piece looks like a regular coil head piece and you are able to change out the coil and cotton as needed. I have purchased quite a few. I use 5 or so that I keep assembled and I carry one with me so that is my coil burns out or something it is easy to swap. And I have 5 put away just in case any of them break. A lot of folks just build as needed.

I'm a bit klutzy sometimes and drop things so for me the Rba pieces sometimes go bad. The other part that has gone bad on me is the bottom airflow piece.

So I would recommend 2 extra airflow pieces, 2 extra rba pieces and some extra glass and o-rings. Fasttech has them all.

I do not do any fancy coil builds - just regular kanthal or SS316L and it is very easy. The coil ends are held in place with 2 screws (they just tuck under the edge of screw), then you cut off the excess and put cotton through the coil, put juice on the cotton, screw the cover on the rba piece and then screw the tank back on.
This is the video I watched - he shows you up close and speaks clearly

One more thing - I also bought premade coils -- we can give you links. They are not expensive at all and you can use them while you figure out how to do the coil youself or you can just continue to buy premade ones. They come between 20 and 100 to a package.

Thanks

Assuming I like it that much: Maybe have 3, with the spares you suggested. I do like the idea of having spare RBAs so I can have them all ready to go.

Think I'll pass on the drop in heads. I do all my own coils now except for the Nautilus. That's my end of the line backup for when my hands or my eyes finally give out.

Premade coils sounds interesting though.

The lowest ohms I use now are 1.2 in Lemos. Shouldn't try to turn the STM into a tootler but I'll probably stay at the high end of the range. Does 1.2 work?

 

[Beamslider]

Can't remember if the top tank and subtank shared same glass. Would that fit the subtank?

No subtank has longer glass. The only part not switchable from subtank mini and Toptank mini is the glass tube

 

[englishmick]

If Kanger would start making the AFC base for the Protank II again, I would have more of them in use.

They seem to be around still. Kangeronline has 250 in stock for $6. Vapor Authority has them for $5.50. That's the Mark 3 which is the one I use.

 

[score69]

Thanks

Assuming I like it that much: Maybe have 3, with the spares you suggested. I do like the idea of having spare RBAs so I can have them all ready to go.

Think I'll pass on the drop in heads. I do all my own coils now except for the Nautilus. That's my end of the line backup for when my hands or my eyes finally give out.

Premade coils sounds interesting though.

The lowest ohms I use now are 1.2 in Lemos. Shouldn't try to turn the STM into a tootler but I'll probably stay at the high end of the range. Does 1.2 work?

Yes, 1.2ohm will work just fine. Some of the drop in coils are 1.2ohm, and I believe they also released a 1.5ohm at some point. I actually preferred the 1.2ohm coils to the 0.5 when I was using the ST mini regularly.

 

[chellie]

Thanks

Assuming I like it that much: Maybe have 3, with the spares you suggested. I do like the idea of having spare RBAs so I can have them all ready to go.

Think I'll pass on the drop in heads. I do all my own coils now except for the Nautilus. That's my end of the line backup for when my hands or my eyes finally give out.

Premade coils sounds interesting though.

The lowest ohms I use now are 1.2 in Lemos. Shouldn't try to turn the STM into a tootler but I'll probably stay at the high end of the range. Does 1.2 work?

Yes - I've used 1.2 --now I use more in the .5 to .8 range with 16-22 watts. That's my preferred.

 

[ScottP]

Now if I can just track down a Win 95 driver for my floppy drive and get the computer running right.

I still have original install media for Win95 if you need it, or if you really want to rock it old school I still have Windows 3.1 install media (on floppy of course).

 

[Myk]

I still have original install media for Win95 if you need it, or if you really want to rock it old school I still have Windows 3.1 install media (on floppy of course).

Real floppy floppies? I could've used that. But I've since recycled that computer. I've even thrown out most of my hard floppies. But I am still hanging onto my 8-track tapes thinking they may make a comeback.

 

[ScottP]

Real floppy floppies? I could've used that. But I've since recycled that computer. I've even thrown out most of my hard floppies. But I am still hanging onto my 8-track tapes thinking they may make a comeback.

No it's the 3.5" hard floppies. I had long ago converted all of my truly floppy 5 1/4 disks to the 3.5 format. I actually once used a computer with an 8" floppy drive.

I don't have any 8 tracks, but I have more cassettes than you can count.

 

[ST Dog]

No it's the 3.5" hard floppies. I had long ago converted all of my truly floppy 5 1/4 disks to the 3.5 format. I actually once used a computer with an 8" floppy drive.

Most of the world has forgotten/never knew 8" floppies existed.

But 3.5" still has a "floppy" disc inside the outer case.

It the magnetic media that make it floppy or hard.
I've still got some removable hard disks (Syquest, 230MB and 1.5GB)

 

[Alter]

For those who have the STM vertical coils.
You can tap them apart without wrecking any part of the head to remove the vertical sleeve part to make it into a horizontal coil that is much easier to rebuild. I have enough RBA's and regular horizontal coils that it'll be a long time before I get to using the modified vertical coils. I think there are different versions of the head but the ones I have are few years old and the top is a solid piece.

 

[Beamslider]

For those who have the STM vertical coils.
You can tap them apart without wrecking any part of the head to remove the vertical sleeve part to make it into a horizontal coil that is much easier to rebuild. I have enough RBA's and regular horizontal coils that it'll be a long time before I get to using the modified vertical coils. I think there are different versions of the head but the ones I have are few years old and the top is a solid piece.

Yes, this one is easy. Just pull the bottom off and remove old coil. Wrap a 3 MM coil small enough to fit thru top hole and wick it.

 

[Coastal Cowboy]

Something else worth mentioning is the backwards compatibility of the STM/TTM with Protank and Evod coils.

They fit.

The VOCC-T dual coil units with cotton wicks fit, also. Those can be pushed a little harder with a higher PG content juice. I think I had one up to a terrifying 21 Watts.

Set the airflow tight, swap in a PTII drip tip and you have a 4.5ml Protank MTL machine.

There is very little that a Pico 75 and a TTM or STM can't do. MTL... DTL... RBA... TC...

This combo was like magic to me just about a year ago.

 

[Beamslider]

I have a bunch of the Kanger T3s coils. Look like that coil. Will have to dig them out and give them a try if they fit.

 

[dcdozer]

Yes, this one is easy. Just pull the bottom off and remove old coil. Wrap a 3 MM coil small enough to fit thru top hole and wick it.

My wife still uses these - how does this work? I'd like to try it, but where does the wicked 3mm wire plug in?

 

[untar]

but where does the wicked 3mm wire plug in?

You mean where the leads go? There's a rubber grommet and pin at the bottom, the pin is the positive contact and the grommet separates the two leads. One lead stays outside the grommet and one goes through the hole in the middle of the grommet and is held in place by the pin, excess is clipped. Make sure the leads don't touch on the way from the coil down.

There should be a couple of videos on YT showing in detail how it's done with the OCC (I'd search "rebuild Kanger OCC"), I'm just describing in general how most of the commercial coil heads work.