What happened to Kangertech?

[dcdozer]

You mean where the leads go? There's a rubber grommet and pin at the bottom, the pin is the positive contact and the grommet separates the two leads. One lead stays outside the grommet and one goes through the hole in the middle of the grommet and is held in place by the pin, excess is clipped. Make sure the leads don't touch on the way from the coil down.

There should be a couple of videos on YT showing in detail how it's done with the OCC (I'd search "rebuild Kanger OCC"), I'm just describing in general how most of the commercial coil heads work.

Thanks. I remember seeing videos on how to rebuild the older horizontal coils, but I haven't seen any for rebuilding the verticals. That said, it's been a while since I've looked. Thanks for the info.

 

[untar]

Just looked and there's at least one video for the vertical method. Not sure how often you'll be able to do that since it apparently involves prying off the press fit top part, that'll get loose quickly.

 

[chellie]

Something else worth mentioning is the backwards compatibility of the STM/TTM with Protank and Evod coils.

They fit.

View attachment 749657

View attachment 749659

The VOCC-T dual coil units with cotton wicks fit, also. Those can be pushed a little harder with a higher PG content juice. I think I had one up to a terrifying 21 Watts.

Set the airflow tight, swap in a PTII drip tip and you have a 4.5ml Protank MTL machine.

There is very little that a Pico 75 and a TTM or STM can't do. MTL... DTL... RBA... TC...

This combo was like magic to me just about a year ago.

I have a toptank mini and a number of extra airflows. I also have a protank 4 that I never used. I took out the protank 4 the other day and tried the toptank mini airflow and it doesn't fit. It is the same diameter but just lies there and does not screw in. Any idea why? I thought they were interchangeable. One of the reasons I kept an extra protank 4.

 

[Beamslider]

Just looked and there's at least one video for the vertical method. Not sure how often you'll be able to do that since it apparently involves prying off the press fit top part, that'll get loose quickly.

You don't need to remove any top on them and these as far as I know are solid at least the version I have is solid and does not come apart at all at the top.

You remove the pin from the bottom of the coil and remove old wick and coil from the bottom of them. You wrap a coil with 3 mm inner diameter. The reason for the 3 mm is so that the wick material will be the same size as the side holes and prevent leaking while wicking fine.

Feed the coil legs and coil itself thru the top opening on the coil shell. Put the 3 mm bit thru the coil inside to hold it in place at the correct orientation. One leg inside the insulating sleeve and the other on the outside of it. Replace the bottom pin and cut off the excess legs. Remove the bit from the coil and feed the wick thru. Cut the wick leaving a very small amount of fluff outside it.

Here I found this video for it. There are two types of this coil. One where the top is removable and one that has a solid shell. He is using the one with the removable top but not removing it.

 

[zoiDman]

You don't need to remove any top on them and these as far as I know are solid at least the version I have is solid and does not come apart at all at the top.

You remove the pin from the bottom of the coil and remove old wick and coil from the bottom of them. You wrap a coil with 3 mm inner diameter. The reason for the 3 mm is so that the wick material will be the same size as the side holes and prevent leaking while wicking fine.

Feed the coil legs and coil itself thru the top opening on the coil shell. Put the 3 mm bit thru the coil inside to hold it in place at the correct orientation. One leg inside the insulating sleeve and the other on the outside of it. Replace the bottom pin and cut off the excess legs. Remove the bit from the coil and feed the wick thru. Cut the wick leaving a very small amount of fluff outside it.

Here I found this video for it. There are two types of this coil. One where the top is removable and one that has a solid shell. He is using the one with the removable top but not removing it.

That's How I rebuilt those Kanger Coil-Heads in my brief Coil-Head rebuilding phase.

One thing I did, which made it a little easier was to take a Small V Jewelry File and make a very small Notch in the end of the Coil-Head for the Outer Wire to sit in.

That made the White Grommet sit a little more Flush to the Coil-Head. And helps keep the Coil from moving around inside the Coil-Head.

Not absolutely necessary to do this. But it made things a Little Easier for Me.

 

[untar]

You don't need to remove any top on them and these as far as I know are solid at least the version I have is solid and does not come apart at all at the top.

I was talking about building a vertical coil with carto style wick, not a normal horizontal coil with the wick going through.

It's not what I personally would recommend to do but what the OP specifically asked about just one post above mine.

 

[Beamslider]

Vertical not easy and not worth the effort.

 

[Beamslider]

The shell from the vertical can be used to build a new horizontal coil. No real difference in the two shells

 

[untar]

That's what I think as well. Maybe the OP wasn't aware you can just pop a horizontal coil into the vertical coil head?

 

[dcdozer]

The shell from the vertical can be used to build a new horizontal coil. No real difference in the two shells

Thanks to both you and untar. I was thinking that the vertical coil needed to be rebuilt vertically. I believe the holes on the side of the vertical coils are smaller than the horizontals, so if that's the case you would need to build a smaller diameter coil for it.

 

[listopencil]

I've still got my EVOD Pro that I carry with me in an eGo zipper bag. It's a great little back up vape. I grabbed it for less than $20 and it has been quite the durable little device. I also still have a DripBox 160 for squonking (with its horrible TC mode) although I pretty much go with RTA's now.

 

[sonicbomb]

I rebuilt the heads horizontally and vertically with mixed success with both. I was able to run the new heads at about 25 watts, the rebuilt ones at 35 watts. I wanted more vapor than that could provide so I moved onto RDAs.

This guy built a quad coil for the ST. Needless to say the airflow and wicking could never keep up with this setup.

 

[Vapemesilly]

I have fond memories of my Kanger STM and the 1.5 coils, using it as a MTL tank. It was great. That tank is long gone. Number one son "borrowed" it and I never saw it again. I just went to Fasttech and ordered one with a couple of 5 packs of coils. Not gonna get let number one son borrow this one.

 

[Letitia]

I rebuilt the heads horizontally and vertically with mixed success with both. I was able to run the new heads at about 25 watts, the rebuilt ones at 35 watts. I wanted more vapor than that could provide so I moved onto RDAs.

This guy built a quad coil for the ST. Needless to say the airflow and wicking could never keep up with this setup.

Tried that once, broke one of the posts. Luckily I had several more and that wasn't an issue. Wrapping the coils on a paper clip was pure pita.

 

[chellie]

Thanks to both you and untar. I was thinking that the vertical coil needed to be rebuilt vertically. I believe the holes on the side of the vertical coils are smaller than the horizontals, so if that's the case you would need to build a smaller diameter coil for it.

For the subtank/toptank. I used to rewick the old square ones with the horizontal coils. Once I could not get those anymore I learned to build on the rba --- much easier for me at least. And I keep a bunch premade so it is almost like having drop in coils.