What is dry burn?
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This video does a better job of explaining it than I could in words. It's a little long, but worth a look.
It's basically a way to clean any coil build-up you may have. Sometimes even the longest soak in alcohol won't get rid of all the gunk. Basically it's just heating up the coil with no juice so it glows red. This burns off any contaminants off the coil so your juice can be burnt quicker and cleaner - giving you a better tasting vape (in theory)
Full Disclosure - I have no affiliation with 317 vapors, I just like some of their videos!
It's basically a way to clean any coil build-up you may have. Sometimes even the longest soak in alcohol won't get rid of all the gunk. Basically it's just heating up the coil with no juice so it glows red. This burns off any contaminants off the coil so your juice can be burnt quicker and cleaner - giving you a better tasting vape (in theory)
Full Disclosure - I have no affiliation with 317 vapors, I just like some of their videos!
dry burn works better with good quality silica used in rebuildables. On entry level, changing the coil works better.
Dry burning and cleaning can go a long way of prolonging the life of your heads/coils which saves you money in the long run. While the heads themselves may not be that expensive, if you start adding it up, at the end of the year you may find that you could have saved quite a bit. 
Greetings; Is there a risk of burning the wicks if dry burning is not done right? How do avoid this?
I'd like to learn how to do this, although in the longer term I want to learn how to rebuild the PT coils used in my Davide. It sounds like it's possible to get much better quality coils if you build them yourself. Do people find that this tends to be true, or does YMMV?
Regards
Glenn
I'd like to learn how to do this, although in the longer term I want to learn how to rebuild the PT coils used in my Davide. It sounds like it's possible to get much better quality coils if you build them yourself. Do people find that this tends to be true, or does YMMV?
Regards
Glenn
With silica wicks, no. They're fiberglass and don't burn. Some people dry burn silica with a mini-torch, it's rugged stuff.
Cotton, however, will vaporize as soon as the liquid in it runs dry.
Cotton, however, will vaporize as soon as the liquid in it runs dry.
Washing the tank and wicks in water cleans the tank and wicks. Darker juices sometimes need to be soaked in PGA/ alcohol.
Dry burning cleans the "juice gunk" on the coil- turns it into ash- rinse in water afterwards.
It's impossible to burn a silica wick with an PV as it/ silica has a burn resistance of 1600°C. If rebuilding with cotton the coil cannot be dry burned.
Dry burning cleans the "juice gunk" on the coil- turns it into ash- rinse in water afterwards.
It's impossible to burn a silica wick with an PV as it/ silica has a burn resistance of 1600°C. If rebuilding with cotton the coil cannot be dry burned.
Good stuff to know. I'll keep this information in mind next time I clean out my EVOD. Thanks.
When dry burning coils with ekowool, are you supposed to take the wick out, dry burn, then replace with new wicks? Or can you dry burn with the ekowool still in the coil?
Ekowool is braided silica- somewhat like a shoelace. It has a hollow core and can be dry burned without worry.
There's also an Ekowool available with a cotton core- can be "wet burned" but have to be careful.
Edit: you can dry burn Ekowool while it's wrapped by the coil. No need to remove it and same procedure as regular silica wicks.
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Is there a way to dry burn the PT3 heads? I don't see any way to get to the coil...
It took me a long time to get dry burning right. I now soak, pop off the tube, remove the flavor wicks, burn 5 seconds on 5 seconds off until they glow, rinse it off, let it dry, and put it back together. YouTube made it complicated.
Living, loving, and laughing all the time!
You don't have to 'get to it' to dry burn. Just follow the video - the heads are almost identical and so is the procedure.
You don't have to pop off the tube, remove flavor wicks or anything else (assuming you are using silica wicks and not cotton)
After rinsing or soaking your coil head, just screw it back on and dry burn it. Silica cannot burn and the glowing coil will often burn any gunk you have left on the wicks too. Just remember to do a final rinse after any dry burn.
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LLLane has the steps down.....
with the vodak soak this should work very well.
Just save your "old coils"
sooner or later the urge to try re-wicking/re-coiling them is going to sneak up on you........
with the vodak soak this should work very well.
Just save your "old coils"
sooner or later the urge to try re-wicking/re-coiling them is going to sneak up on you........
sooner or later the urge to try re-wicking/re-coiling them is going to sneak up on you........
Yes it certainly will! (at least it will if you like doing things yourself as opposed to buying pre-made).
If you do choose to go this route, I would suggest buying in bulk. Most vaping sites/stores sell short lengths of kanthal/nichrome for a few bucks. Buying short lengths is fine if you just want to try your hand at it, or experiement with different guage wire, but its a waste of money if you choose to rebuild regularly/longterm).
You can buy 100ft spools of kanthal on eBay/Amazon for less than $10. It is nice to have plenty of wire as it is much easier to make a good coil if you leave long "tails" to hold onto and pull on each end (which will be cut off after the coil/wick is complete). Also, like everything, practice makes perfect; if you make coil that doesn't work well or doesn't have the resistance you desired, it's nice to be able to throw it out and start over without worrying about how much wire you have left to work with.
Good luck with your coils
bleh, no wonder i am getting awful tastes from my coils then, soaked and then dry burnt em and did not rinse...duh, me
so much to learn, so few brane cells...
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