What's gonna break first on your mech mod?

[SissySpike]

I think they are really that obtuse. Around here, they show you don't know what you are asking by repeating what you said v-e-r-y s-l-o-w-l-y. This is why I head to Amazon more and more when I'm looking for anything less common than a claw hammer.

I suppose it depends on where your at and how the store is managed, you can go to the same store in two diffrent places and have a completely different exp.

I few months back I had to test a tank in NY I had to bring the 300,000 gallon tank up to 7in of water column. I had a 6in blind flange and a gauge. The Lady in Ace had me going with the right fittings in less than 5 min. I simply took both in and walked up to the counter and said I need fittings and a tap to make this attach to this.

 

[SissySpike]

I also think the 510 threads are the weakest link. For the rest of the threads, I think it depends on how careful you are with starting them and not over-tightening.

I've had a K100 since March 2013 that's seen a lot of use and nothing has noticeably worn yet except the finish in a couple of places. I think I could use that thing as a hammer and it wouldn't even wince. The Nemesis clone has fine threads so I'm careful with them. I also doubt the switch on that is as tough as in the K100.

I forget alot of the mods are made from Alu I try to stay away from those. Alu has great conductive qualities but is very soft 90% of my mods have ss threading. What you use to top your mod also has something to do with it. I ordered some fastech RDAs clones for the propose of comparison nether would thread in to my mods smoothly. I did not even bother trying to dress the threads I just pitched them.

 

[dspin]

No reason for threads to strip if you don't over tighten or cross thread and they are machined correctly to begin with. Springs can be replaced. Threads will wear eventually but if you keep a decent lube on them it should be minimized.

Thats exactly right. I have GG's produced in early 2010 that are like brand new. I do not let the threads get dirty, ALL THREADS including O-rings are lubed LIGHTLY with vaseline.


I guess the only thing on any of my mechanicals that will need replacing are springs - IF they have any and O-rings if they have any.

Caravelas had a button spring - but since replaced with magnets - new version coming will have no magnets or springs

 

[denali_41]

Have you ever heard of anyone replacing K100 springs with magnets? I am asking because I have one and the pressure it takes to push the button on it is too much for my arthritis. I love the mech but I badly need to find a way to lighten the button press pressure.

if you can get the bottom cap apart to get to the spring ?? heating the spring will weaken it tension

 

[DaveP]

The switch contacts on a mech take a beating because they conduct the same current load as the atomizer. On an electronic VV/VW mod the switch only completes a path to send a low level logic voltage to the SCR/TRIAC that delivers the load voltage to the atomizer coil.

SS atomizer threads will last for years as long as you don't abuse them by overtightening. If they squeak when you screw on an atomizer, wear will occur. A tiny drop of PG will stop that and it won't create noxious fumes like silicone or petroleum products.

The spring lasts for a long time as long as it doesn't receive excessive current overload. In a mech, you do want to use a sacrificial spring that sags when something goes wrong. The people who sold you the mech should be able to supply replacement springs.

Not wanting to say Provari in this thread, but Provape sells springs for mine at 95 cents a pop. I'm not sure I can get one for my Segelei Zmax V3, but Ace would be my first stop.

 

[Ahoy]

Hopefully nothing but I would assume the threads would overtime just get worn out. Even if they are machine perfectly, if they are used enough they will wear out..just like on anything. I can't really forsee springs going but who knows, one day I might wake up and do something really stupid with them and break other things as well. But if you keep taking care of the device, it should last a long time. Clones are a different story, they are hard to tell how long they will last, but I have heard of people using clones for over a year and counting so far. All depends on your luck and the manufacturer of the cloned device.

 

[Rosco P. Coltrane]

Have you ever heard of anyone replacing K100 springs with magnets? I am asking because I have one and the pressure it takes to push the button on it is too much for my arthritis. I love the mech but I badly need to find a way to lighten the button press pressure.

I have adjust this by simply trimming off some of the spring.

 

[crxess]

People also need to realize 308 and 316 Stainless Steel are not the same thing.

This is where many Original Mods out shine their cheaper Clones. Even with the step up in Machining as of late, material strength is still a weak point.

 

[DaveP]

People also need to realize 308 and 316 Stainless Steel are not the same thing.

This is where many Original Mods out shine their cheaper Clones. Even with the step up in Machining as of late, material strength is still a weak point.

Pretty much any SS level will outlast the pot metal threads that come on many lower priced mods. My old eGo batt pot metal threads are pitiful after using them for a couple of years. My Provari SS threads are pristine after the same length of time. The Zmax SS threads are looking good too, but time hasn't told the story on them yet.

 

[Arnie H]

Makes sense to me, that the 510 connector threads (depending upon how often you change atomizers) and/or any moving parts on the device would be the first to wear out in the long run.