Where to find 400+ Mah batteries?

[kylecoberly]

So, you wonderful folks have talked me into putting a LR atomizer on my DSE901, but I've found that they all recommend having stronger batteries than the standard ones... except I can't find these batteries anywhere!! From what I've seen it looks like KR8 batteries will work too. I found some manuals in the 300 range, but I'd like to stick with automatic if it's an option.

As another alternative, can I just get a 5v battery for a 901 without modding it? The Buzz looks cool as hell, but I'm not ready to shell out that much yet, and I really don't think I need the variable voltage.

Lastly (and a little off-topic), is there a consensus at all on the little metal drip mouthpieces? I tried direct dripping tonight, and I dig it, but taking off the mouthpiece to refill every hour sort of sucks because it gets drops of liquid on the unit that I then have to wipe off.

 

[sanfordf]

You can't find what doesn't exist, as you've already found. However, you've also discovered that you can use the LR atty on a standard battery. The reason that it is recommended that you use a 440mah or greater battery is that the LR atty is hard on the standard type e-cig batts and will wear them out sooner (or so they say). If it works for you, I would get another 901 battery, just in case. They say, that LR atties should be used on e-cigs like the Tornado, Ego, Riva, Hello 016 or mods that use separate Lithium batts like the buzz or any of these : Electronic Cigarette Mods | e-Cig Mod Reviews and Comparison.

I think you are referring to drip tips that replace the juice cartridge on the atty. You drip into the drip tip about 3 drops which drip onto the atomizer mesh covered coil. You get about 9-12 vapes from those 3 drops of e-liquid. Then you drip some more. Vape some more, drip some more. Keep exploring ECF, there's enough people and info to answer all your questions.

 

[kylecoberly]

I think what I'm going to try giving a pass-through a shot- I hadn't realized that those deliver 5v.

 

[40bikes]

Be careful using the usb port on your computer you can over tax the pwr supply on your computer if you use more than 1000mA current.
Get an a/c to usb adapter of 2 amps (2000mAh) rating and you should be fine getting your power from the wall instead of the desktop. NEVER use a passthrough on a laptop. bikes

 

[mistinthewoods]

You could get one of these Electronic Cigarettes from Cigeasy - Home of the Easy E-Cigarette. It has a 750 mAh battery and uses 901 attys or kr808 D-1 cartomizers. Or you could do what I do and get a Riva or eGo and one of these adapters 510 to 901/808-D Adapter . Then you could use 510 attys or cartomizers as well as the 901s and kr808s.

 

[oettinger]

Be careful using the usb port on your computer you can over tax the pwr supply on your computer if you use more than 1000mA current.
Get an a/c to usb adapter of 2 amps (2000mAh) rating and you should be fine getting your power from the wall instead of the desktop. NEVER use a passthrough on a laptop. bikes

Do you have some reasoning for these statements? I used to use a passthru on my laptop ALL DAY LONG for months, until I got big batteries.

How can a USB accessory tax the USB port on the computer? You might be confused if you have an OLD laptop, that only uses USB 1.0, or 1.1, the amperage across the connector is lower.

The USB 1.x and 2.0 specifications provide a 5 V supply on a single wire from which connected USB devices may draw power. The specification provides for no more than 5.25 V and no less than 4.75 V (5 V±5%) between the positive and negative bus power lines. For USB 2.0 the voltage supplied by low-powered hub ports is 4.4 V to 5.25 V.

A unit load is defined as 100 mA in USB 2.0 A maximum of 5 unit loads (500 mA) can be drawn from a port in USB 2.0.

I am pretty sure that if a USB port has the juice to power a George Foreman grill, it will fire up an atomizer just fine. ThinkGeek :: George Foreman USB iGrill

 

[Hoosier]

Yep, you got the USB specs. And it is all DC so our calculations are simply based off V=IR. Our I has a max of 0.5 Amps. Our V is suppose to be 5 Volts. If we want and R value just from those two values we have R=V/R or 10 Ohms.

Huh, LR attys are lower than that. So let's try a 3 Ohm figure to keep it close and figure I for our USB supply so we plug that into I=V/R and get 1.67 Amps. Darn that's over drawing the USB supply.

OK, maybe we get crazy and assume it is a fixed current supply instead of fixed voltage. So let's solve for V=IR... We get 1.5 volts. Man, that really drops the potential there.

So what do you think is going to happen to the curcuitry that keeps control of the limiting of the USB? Do you think that part of your MB has the best and most robust devices put into it?

That is why many offer caution about plugging in a non-battery PT to your computer. It is too great a load. Something has to give after awhile. Wallwarts are cheap. MB not so much.

 

[cozzicon]

Yep, you got the USB specs. And it is all DC so our calculations are simply based off V=IR. Our I has a max of 0.5 Amps. Our V is suppose to be 5 Volts. If we want and R value just from those two values we have R=V/R or 10 Ohms.

Huh, LR attys are lower than that. So let's try a 3 Ohm figure to keep it close and figure I for our USB supply so we plug that into I=V/R and get 1.67 Amps. Darn that's over drawing the USB supply.

OK, maybe we get crazy and assume it is a fixed current supply instead of fixed voltage. So let's solve for V=IR... We get 1.5 volts. Man, that really drops the potential there.

So what do you think is going to happen to the curcuitry that keeps control of the limiting of the USB? Do you think that part of your MB has the best and most robust devices put into it?

That is why many offer caution about plugging in a non-battery PT to your computer. It is too great a load. Something has to give after awhile. Wallwarts are cheap. MB not so much.

Ding! Great post.

The value of a battery passthrough is always underestimated by most.

Get one... use it... love it... and go on with life.

 

[CaptJay]

Do you have some reasoning for these statements? I used to use a passthru on my laptop ALL DAY LONG for months, until I got big batteries.

How can a USB accessory tax the USB port on the computer? You might be confused if you have an OLD laptop, that only uses USB 1.0, or 1.1, the amperage across the connector is lower.

The USB 1.x and 2.0 specifications provide a 5 V supply on a single wire from which connected USB devices may draw power. The specification provides for no more than 5.25 V and no less than 4.75 V (5 V±5%) between the positive and negative bus power lines. For USB 2.0 the voltage supplied by low-powered hub ports is 4.4 V to 5.25 V.

A unit load is defined as 100 mA in USB 2.0 A maximum of 5 unit loads (500 mA) can be drawn from a port in USB 2.0.

I am pretty sure that if a USB port has the juice to power a George Foreman grill, it will fire up an atomizer just fine. ThinkGeek :: George Foreman USB iGrill

lol G FOreman grill.
The poster is probably thinking of the (admittedly very small) possibility of the PT shorting - it HAS happened - one member fried his work PC's motherboard. That's why we often mention people getting the USB/AC wall charger to use with PT as its better safe than sorry. Also a $14 wall plug is a lot cheaper to replace.
I dont use my 5v PT with my PC ports - the PC doesnt put out enough steady voltage for it to work well - in fact my 5v PT won't work via my PC usb, it jsut cuts out constantly, but I do use my 3.7v inline battery PT on my PC as that one hates teh wall plug.

 

[Turbo_CRX]

im not exactly sure what your talking about but try Eliquidplanet.com they have alot of good accessories and aftermarket batteries and atomizers.. i definitly recommend the upgraded 510 atomizer to anyone who has a 510 it produces vapor just like smoke from a real cigarette, and you will get massive throat hits until your used to it.. and still will depending on how hard you hit it, some juices i noticed also hit harder then the other