I prefer to vape MTL so I tend to build higher ohm coils at lower wattage (14-20W). I'm curious as to which wears out a battery faster, drawing higher voltage or drawing higher current? I ask this because I'm split as to whether or not I would build low (0.6-0.7) and vape at a lower wattage or if I build high (1.0-1.3) and vape at a higher voltage. I know that in terms of battery life drawing less current makes it last longer but I wonder if drawing higher voltage won't make it wear out faster.
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You have no direct influence on the voltage drawn from the cell. The chip has to work with the voltage the cell puts out and instead has to modify the ampdraw to deliver the wattage you want.
Ignoring efficiency of the chip, for a 20W vape the ampdraw is 4.76A with a fully charged cell (20W/4.2V). When the cell is almost depleted however, the ampdraw will be 5.7A (20W/3.5V).
Ignoring efficiency of the chip, for a 20W vape the ampdraw is 4.76A with a fully charged cell (20W/4.2V). When the cell is almost depleted however, the ampdraw will be 5.7A (20W/3.5V).
Do either of these factors seriously affect the longevity of the battery more than the other? Would I be better off just building for the 20W/3.5V than the 20W/4.2?
The Difference in Battery "life Span" for the type of Wattage you use is probably Very Small.
So I would just go with the Settings that Taste Best.
Perhaps a Better way to Prolong Battery Life is to Not Discharge the Batteries you use below 3.6v or so.
What he said ^^^^^^^^. 
The only way you are going to know for certain is to try building 0.6-0.7 ohms and see how you like it. I use claptons in the 0.4 - 0.5 ohm range and vape MTL to RDL (occasional DL) lower watts to ~36w. Works for me. We're all different.
I may be wrong, electricity is way too quantum for me to really understand.
A battery has a a given amount power expressed in volts, similar to a pool of water. Amps are an expression of how fast you are drawing power from that pool.
Demanding too many amps from a battery not capable of supplying them will stress or in the extreme damage the battery.
OP as you are talking about specific wattage levels I'm assuming you are using a regulated device. In which case the voltage and amperage numbers you are quoting is what is displayed on the mod. These are the values on the atomizer side of the regulation chip , not what is being drawn from the battery.
Just make sure your battery has an amp rating appropriate for the wattage you are using and you need worry your head no more.
A 20 amp CDR battery is good for up to 60 watts.
I would recommend the Samsung 30Q
A battery has a a given amount power expressed in volts, similar to a pool of water. Amps are an expression of how fast you are drawing power from that pool.
Demanding too many amps from a battery not capable of supplying them will stress or in the extreme damage the battery.
OP as you are talking about specific wattage levels I'm assuming you are using a regulated device. In which case the voltage and amperage numbers you are quoting is what is displayed on the mod. These are the values on the atomizer side of the regulation chip , not what is being drawn from the battery.
Just make sure your battery has an amp rating appropriate for the wattage you are using and you need worry your head no more.
A 20 amp CDR battery is good for up to 60 watts.
I would recommend the Samsung 30Q
Battery capacity is measured in mAh (milliamp hours). If your mod supplies voltage in excess of the supplied voltage (4.2-3.5 [3.7 nominal]), then the electronics are drawing excess amps to convert to voltage output (same with watts). To achieve the best battery run-time, your coil resistance and mass will be lower, in order to reduce ramp-up time and increase vapor production faster.
I find the mesh atties and the like to ramp-up fastest, thus increasing battery overall run time.
I find the mesh atties and the like to ramp-up fastest, thus increasing battery overall run time.
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