Who has had a battery vent on them and why?

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bm2112

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So here on ECF I've noticed that most members have negative views on sub-ohming. Not just for new vapers, but even experienced vapers with the proper hardware. Whenever someone mentions a build under .5 ohms there's always numerous comments like: "Have fun blowing your face off" or "That's a pipe bomb" or "That's not safe".

With the Sony VTC batteries, it's difficult to create a build that would actually short them. I would never recommend anyone go below .1 ohms because a faulty ohm reader off by a couple digits could be the difference between a safe build and a dangerous build. However, I think ECF members should be more understanding of experienced vapers who decide to venture into the super sub-ohm range. A lot of the veterans that do so can also provide the best advice for newer members, and it would be a shame if they were driven away because of misinformation.

So my question for everyone is: Have you ever had a battery vent on you? And why? What happened as a result?

I feel like it would be very easy to tell if a battery was getting hot. The mod also gets hot and anyone with nerves in their hand should be able to recognize this before anything bad happens. The only stories I've heard about mods blowing up are related to people building their own mods or stacking batteries. So ECF members, tell me your story.

Edit: I'd also like to say that the "Inhalation Issues" in the sub-ohm advisory is ridiculous. It assumes many things that have never been proven to be true. My vape is cooler than a clearo because I have proper airflow, so I guess my sub-ohm vape is safer. Poor logic and no scientific evidence. Truly frustrating misinformation
 
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CRW78

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I had a .03 ohm build in my 454 the other day that could have gone horribly awry.
One of the key warning signs is to look for a hot button. When you fire your mod, your button should not get hot. If it gets hot, this is a warning! I vape below .10 daily, all the time, and do so cautiously. When my mod starts heating up, I give it a break for a few minutes.
 

crxess

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Maybe if you had say.......................40+ years DC experience, you might know better.

No two batteries can be guaranteed Identical nor that they will produce exactly the same results repeatedly.
Battery Limits are established as a MAXIMUM the battery should be capable of handling in a crunch(LIMITED) situation.
SUSTAINED limits are also a Should be, not a 100% WILL
Running a Battery at 80% of continuous specs SHOULD result in a reasonable battery life
CONSTANTLY pushing a battery to its MAXIMUM limits will most definitely shorten the Batteries useful life at minimum.

It seems you think you know more than you may. Most likely to justify your preferences than from valid information.
So, I'll just leave you to your beliefs.

Oh, and I have no issue what so ever with an experienced person working their devices to their established safety limits.
I do have issue with Promoting the activity as Safe to those less skilled.

I spent many years building 8000-10,000 watt audio systems in Competition level cars. I also saw some of the most dangerous poorly built systems you could imagine from DIY'ers that thought they had a clue.
i.e. - some even asked to leave the competitor area by judges for safety reasons.:laugh:
 
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schuff

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I've vented 2 batteries in 4 years. One was an efest 2000mah due to a faulty coil in a joyetech bcc tank and an efest 35amp from an accidental auto fire with a Kayfun.

Really sad part is my ADV is sitting at 0.12 ohms right now and hasn't been much above 0.3 in over a year and never even had a slightly scary moment with a RDA.
 

dannyrl

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When you fire your mod, your button should not get hot. If it gets hot, this is a warning!

I thought hot buttons were caused by high resistance in the button spring. I run a .3 build on VTC5s and my button gets really warm over time, but the current draw is within the 30A limit. I put it down to let it cool off, but if there's something I'm missing, I'd like to know!
 

k702

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I don't think it's so much about being terrified of sub ohming...

I think most people here are more afraid of the people who are asking very simple easy to answer questions about their super sub ohm builds.. If you don't know how to cool down a vape or what affects the air flow, or why your mod might be getting hot then you truly do not have enough experience, knowledge, or common sense to be running the build you are/wish too..

Multiple threads pop up every day from people running under .4 ohms with questions that should be getting asked by someone with an ego or mvp with a pro tank or something.. That is scary. The chances of it blowing your face off are probably pretty low, but why even screw around with something like that when there is absolutely no need to?



"With the Sony VTC batteries, it's difficult to create a build that would actually short them."

When things like that are said, this thread really answers itself.
 
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bm2112

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Maybe if you had say.......................40+ years DC experience, you might know better.

No two batteries can be guaranteed Identical nor that they will produce exactly the same results repeatedly.
Battery Limits are established as a MAXIMUM the battery should be capable of handling in a crunch(LIMITED) situation.
SUSTAINED limits are also a Should be, not a 100% WILL
Running a Battery at 80% of continuous specs SHOULD result in a reasonable battery life
CONSTANTLY pushing a battery to its MAXIMUM limits will most definitely shorten the Batteries useful life at minimum.

It seems you think you know more than you may. Most likely to justify your preferences than from valid information.
So, I'll just leave you to your beliefs.

Oh, and I have no issue what so ever with an experienced person working their devices to their established safety limits.
I do have issue with Promoting the activity as Safe to those less skilled.

I spent many years building 8000-10,000 watt audio systems in Competition level cars. I also saw some of the most dangerous poorly built systems you could imagine from DIY'ers that thought they had a clue.
i.e. - some even asked to leave the competitor area by judges for safety reasons.:laugh:

Did I say anything that wasn't factual? I didn't pretend that I had some kind of secret knowledge. I never said anything about battery life. Yes I am aware that if you constantly push batteries, they lose life. I am more concerned with safety than the life of my batteries. They are cheap and replaceable. I would love for you to show me where my beliefs took place of valid information.

Your expertise in car audio didn't pertain to venting batteries in mods. I wanted to know who actually had batteries vent on them and why.. so I could avoid it ever happening to me. Seems like you wanted to brag about yourself rather than contribute to the topic.

I don't claim to know it all. I wouldn't continue to ask questions here if I already had all the answers. I appreciate everyone's opinion, but I don't appreciate when people claim I'm spreading misinformation. If I am correct me! I would hate to tell someone something that isn't factual.
 
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bm2112

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I've vented 2 batteries in 4 years. One was an efest 2000mah due to a faulty coil in a joyetech bcc tank and an efest 35amp from an accidental auto fire with a Kayfun.

Really sad part is my ADV is sitting at 0.12 ohms right now and hasn't been much above 0.3 in over a year and never even had a slightly scary moment with a RDA.

Thank you. This is exactly what I was looking for. What happened when you found your mod autofiring?
 

schuff

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Thank you. This is exactly what I was looking for. What happened when you found your mod autofiring?

It was a typical mistake. I had stuck the mod in the center console of my car as I ran into the store real quick. Came out about 5 mins later and immediately smelled something funny. I used my shirt to get the mod apart and the negative contact of the battery was pretty much all black. The mods delrin insulator as well as the kayfun's insulator was melted so I had to get a new top cap and Kayfun insulator.
 

CRW78

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I thought hot buttons were caused by high resistance in the button spring. I run a .3 build on VTC5s and my button gets really warm over time, but the current draw is within the 30A limit. I put it down to let it cool off, but if there's something I'm missing, I'd like to know!

It will get warm with use, but if it gets hot immediately, there's a problem and potential for danger. May be the battery, or just a bad mod. My Maraxus had a problem with the button getting EXTREMELY hot immediately when firing. I took it back and the guy had told me that I was the second person to have the issue, he exchanged it for me.. I got an AR. Anywho, that's just from info I have found. Your button will get warm, but should not get hot when firing right off the bat.
 

schuff

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Do you think that was a stuck button? Or pressed by being placed between the seats.

It was kind of a mixture actually. It was a king v2 so it had a recessed button but also had a locking ring. Well the spring button had come about 1/3 of the way loose and I had gotten used to not needing to lock it. So something pressed the button just enough to cause it to fire the entire time I was in the store.
 

hippesthippo

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Hot buttons are usually caused by arcing at the negative contact.. exacerbated by high amp builds.

Sony VTC5's are indeed extremely hard to vent. As are MNKE's. I've seen "experiments," where people have dead-shorted them and walked away. Several minutes later, they do start to vent, however.. no explosions.

That being said, it is important to understand the limitations of your batteries and how they pertain to our application WELL before diving into the super high amp builds. The continuous amp rating listed on most battery specs aren't really what we're looking for as vapers. That spec relates more to things like flashlights.. you know, things that are left running continuously. In vaping, we're usually pulsing our batteries. However, access to pulse amp ratings aren't as readily available, and the numbers you find online aren't very trustworthy. So, to some extent, going beyond a batteries continuous rating is a little like playing with fire.

The real danger, it would seem, stems from using batteries that simply aren't safe. UltraFire, TrustFire, Kamry, and all other sort of re-wrapped cells which are often over-spec'd factory rejects.

Long story short, I've never vented a battery. If you're using safe batteries, auto-fire situations are really your primary concern. I wouldn't be caught dead running .03ohm builds with eFest "35 amp," batteries though.
 
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supertrunker

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The only battery that went "fizz" on me went when it was being charged. I still get nagged for the mess it made. Think tinsel all over and a rather acrid smell.

It was an AW IMR 1600, but apparently the charger had a fault. None of this was at low resistance compared to the gear i use today, so either i got more careful, batteries got better, or chargers did.

I'd like to think it was all 3 despite using much lower coils than i ever used to.

T
 

Asmo6

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So the flat top 18350 efests don't quite reach in the Atom. I usually ran a kick of some variety, and when it crapped it's pants in a car ride. Cutting out, weak perf, etc I pulled the kick. Well great, now I have no ecig...

So I grabbed a dime, meticulously trapped it on top the battery not touching the sides of the mod, and all was (not) well.

At some point it shifted, despite being ginger with it, and it vented. The mod body went about 140*. And I stripped it apart as fast as I could. And held the battery out the window until it cooled off. I have a pretty fair tolerance for heat, and pain from years of working with my hands and my piggly wigglys were a bit tender, but no major problems.

My fingers by the vent holes received a white dotty chemical burn as well. Which I washed, then scraped off with a razor blade. No harm no foul. Didn't hurt at all. 1st layer of skin only.


Battery still works. I charged it (watching it) and used it. So it must have been a mini event and not the whole melt down. But it was a vent. And that's the closest I've come in 8 months.

Set the atom down once unlocked but caught it 2 minutes later and again. Hot as hell but after a clean, no problems.
 

AzPlumber

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Long story short, I've never vented a battery. If you're using safe batteries, auto-fire situations are really your primary concern. I wouldn't be caught dead running .03ohm builds with eFest "35 amp," batteries though.

Sure hope you aren't "running" any battery on a .03 ohm coil. If you actually intended to type .3 ohm that would be within the 20amp continuos discharge that battery is reported to be.
 

Bunnykiller

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I had a battery that was at its end of life ( well over 400 charges) so I placed it on the BBQ grill to see what would happen in a hi heat enviroment. Well it was minimal.. a small puff of "steam" and some gooey black juice dribbled out.... that was it, no explosions no guts spewing all over the place, nothing rocketing off into the distance. next experiment will be the over voltage charge when my next battery gets towards its end of life...
 

blueGrassTubb

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I had a battery vent using a Russian 91% with a simple 1.4Ω single coil because the positive block wouldn't stay put.

It would sometimes come loose and start to turn inside the chamber unbeknownst to me, and one time it shorted badly and my battery vented. I didn't realize what exactly was happening until I opened it up.
 
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