Why do you need more than 20 watts

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Sleepy Dog Lee

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I'm totally lost. I always see posts for example comparing a p3 to and rdna 40. People will say the provari only has 20 watts. And the rdna has 40. Why is this needed? What does this extra power do. Is this for creating clouds. Or the equipment just needs this power. I
It's for this.
 

drunkenbatman

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This one goes to 11!

And no it isn't entirely about the clouds, but to an extent it is. What you taste in an ecig is a combination of vaporized eliquid & air. The higher your wattage the hotter you can make a coil faster; for some this gives a really hot and super-flavorful build, especially with an RBA/RDA. For others that means they can produce big clouds. It only matters if you are using a system that can support it; generally RDAs, RBAs or some very expensive tanks. If you aren't setup with those, you just burn stuff up past 8 watts with most of them, and the ones built to excel in the 20-watt range is fairly small.
 

Sleepy Dog Lee

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I rarely do the big clouds but it is a lot of fun and with the plume veil I get flavor and clouds in whatever amount I want on the juices I use. I'm usually going from 30 to 70 watts for various juices and pulf for a second or two. Makes damn big clouds but nothing like you get at 150 watts on a .5 buid. I'm using the new Mutation in the video and though I can get great flavour, it's an RDA afterall, that beast is for clouds.

I'm guessing that the rig I'm using there would run you $250-ish American. Cloupor T-8 150 watts, Authentic Indulgence Mutation V2, Samsung batteries, coils, and juice.

There is a lot of info here on setting up rigs. Just start searching around. If you can, buy authentic.
 

Neolithium

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Wow so where does a prrovari p3 fit in this vs Rdna 40 for example. Because I'm seriuosly debating getting one or the other. I'm doing research first. I'm new not ready for rebuildables yet.

RNDA40 will fire as low as a 0.16 ohm coil. I *THINK* the P3 can go down to 0.70, maybe a little higher, from what I've seen with some google-fu. If you're not looking at rebuildables but perhaps the sub-ohm premade such as an Atlantis or SubTank, you won't be able to use them on the Provari (Subtank does have 1.2 ohm coils that will work, but it defeats the purpose of the whole tank itself IMO).
 

coolercoiler

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It's like driving a Dodge Viper in a 25mph zone. Do you need a V10? Nope. I think it's safe to say that a 20 watt engine in the vaping world is roughly equivalent to a Suzuki Samurai engine in the transportation world these days.

That being said, I love Sammies.

But to me the Provari is a dodge viper that they have transplanted a suzuki engine into :) And just because the suzuki engine is more reliable and works does not justify the cost of the viper.
 

Sgt.Rock

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Never saw the need for higher wattages either...then I took an arrow to the knee ;)

Seriously though...build your own coils and hit 20-25 watts clean and then try to go back...ain't gonna happen for most folks once they've experienced it IMO.

Currently I run a rebuildable tank atomizer (RTA for short) called the RSBT by Smoktech. I'm running a .8 coil in it on a mech which produces 22 watts on a fully charged battery and as low as 18 watts when the battery hits 3.8 (and goes back into the charger)

Running .5 ohms on my drippers gives 35 watts which on a properly wicked coil gives me a lungful of dense vapor in like a second and a half to two second button press on a lung hit.

For me this is where I'm at and it's great for me...your desires however may lie in another range.

It's all good!

Vape on!
 

Brandon David

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A friend in my offroad club hit my build in my lemo on the sigelei at 35 watts Sunday afternoon and his eyes got huge. He said "yeah, I need that". He texted me today after we had been chatting back and forth about what mod to order on Monday and he had made up his mind. Parts are ordered for a diy box mod we'll build in the next week or so.

Once you hit a nice build on more power, even at 35 watts, there's no going back. The flavor, throat hit, and vapor production is intense. Vape 12mg on an entry level clearo and ordered a little nicer higher power setup with a decent rta or rba? Your next juice order will be 6mg or less most likely. It's kind of the same difference when you drip at home and have a cheap everyday carry device. The difference in vape quality is just fascinating.

That is after he's been vaping for months on an mvp 2 and nautilus combo.
 
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Ridilen

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Thanks for starting this thread, it answered some questions for me. I have just started using a Hobo RDA and was looking at going with a MECH MOD. However, I was told to be concerned with how low you run the battery so you don't vent, building coils to match the voltage, having the MECH fire if in your pocket. Do the coils really need to glow red hot?

Now I am considering a DNA40. This would give me 40W of flavour and some clouds. I can't see going below .2 or .3 Ohms myself.

Any opinions on DNA40 vs MECH MOD.

Sorry if I hijacked the thread, subject was relevant to me.
 

KenD

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I'm totally lost. I always see posts for example comparing a p3 to and rdna 40. People will say the provari only has 20 watts. And the rdna has 40. Why is this needed? What does this extra power do. Is this for creating clouds. Or the equipment just needs this power. I
A significant plus for the rdna is that the DNA40 chip it uses allows for temperature protection. That means that you won't get a burnt taste, won't heat the liquid so hot that dangerous chemicals are produced, won't char the wick - as long as you set the temperature to the proper level. You'll need to use special coils that use nickel heating wire (ni200) though. If you don't want to build your own coils you can get prebuilt coils for a number of clearomizers (I don't use clearos anymore so I can't give any recommendations).
 
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