why dont mech mods burn juices?

[dielonnn]

I was looking into getting a mech mod but a few things have me wary

1 is if im using a vv right now a vision spinner 2 I am constantly having to change my voltage depending on my juice im using, some taste burnt at lower volatages than other, for ex. My pinapple I can vape at 4.3 volt on a 2.2ohm but if I vape my apple pie at that it taste burnt I gotta bring it down to like 3.5

If I have a mech mod wouldnt I have to change my coil everytime I change juices to not get a burnt taste bc they pretty much run at the same volatage all the time ?

I really wana get a mech mod clone bc of there price but im worried about dealing with burnt taste all the time, how do people avoid this problem?

 

[Dissonance]

It will. Mechanical mods will put out ~4.2v-3.5v depending on the battery and how much charge is left. If your coil can't handle 4.2v, you're going to burn.

Honestly, I wouldn't recommend a mechanical mod to anyone who wasn't wanting to build their own sub-ohm coils. If you're using stock coils (Or rebuilding in the 1.5+Ω area), just get a regulated mod like a provari, vamo, mvp, etc... You'll be much happier and safer.

 

[Cullin Kin]

They don't really. At least, I haven't had that problem with my mech. I think the issue is not in the juice but the rate at which your wick supplies the juice to the coil. This is based on the pg/vg content of your juice and the transmitting capability of the wick you use.

If it happens on your mech, then you just have to rewick, not change the coils or rebuild completely. Now if it starts happening consistently with all of your juices, you may have to rebuild at a higher resistance, or change wicking material.

 

[dielonnn]

Do they make cheap clones of vv or vw I have seen a TON of clone mech mods but I dont think ive seen any vv.

If I had the money I would love to buy a nice name brand vv or vw but thats not the case :/

 

[WattWick]

As long as you keep your coil fed with liquids, liquid cooling will keep liquids from "burning". ... unless you got hotspots or use very thin wire which concentrate heat in a very small wick area.

Like how a rice cooker works. Temperatures won't go above the boiling point of water as long as there's still water in there. The moment all water is evaporated, temperatures rise, a temperature sensor triggers and cuts the power. A mech obviously won't cut the power for you

There are also other factors like air cooling and thicker wires.

Also, there's this:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-not-matter-its-all-about-wire-temp-read.html

 

[serenity21899]

Do they make cheap clones of vv or vw I have seen a TON of clone mech mods but I dont think ive seen any vv.

If I had the money I would love to buy a nice name brand vv or vw but thats not the case :/

There are a bunch of authentic regulated mods (vv or vw) under $100.

Another option for a mech is to get an Evolv Kick, which sits on top of your battery. You can set the wattage with it for a more consistent vape.

 

[steved5600]

Mechs will burn juice if you get the resistance low enough. If you have a sub ohm or low ohm coil with a fresh battery you can burn the juice if your wicking is not up to snuff.

 

[danny4x4]

I just use the ABS (Anti Burning System) method. Like the ABS found in cars, rapid presses of the firing button.

 

[BigCatDaddy]

Do they make cheap clones of vv or vw I have seen a TON of clone mech mods but I dont think ive seen any vv.

If I had the money I would love to buy a nice name brand vv or vw but thats not the case :/

You can get an Innokin Itaste VV3 for around $25 or an MVP II for about $40 over at 101vapes. Both are VV/VW and are real workhorses.

 

[dielonnn]

Ya my price options are deff topped out at 40 dollars for a mod for anytime in the near future...unless I hit the lottery

Bigcatdaddy I will deff be checking into those thankyou. Now now I put a dipper atty on an itaste vv3 or mvp2? Pretty much every pic I saw them with a clearomizer or carto on a quick google image search.. Could I put a dripper atty on my vision spinner 2 1300?

And I figure if I get a cheap clone for like 20 bucks its got to be worth it even if I just get it set up for my #1 allday vape on a dripper and then use my spinner2 with my other juices. Idk theres so many options. The world of vaping is so much more vast than I ever could have imagined when I first got into this ...., im lovin it!

 

[Cullin Kin]

I just use the ABS (Anti Burning System) method. Like the ABS found in cars, rapid presses of the firing button.

Is that built in? lol jm. I had actually never thought about doing this. I shall build a lower resistance setup and giveitatry!

 

[TheJakeBailey]

Couple of things to think about. In addition to the mech and the dripper, you will need GOOD batteries, a GOOD charger, an ohms meter or DMM, and rebuilding supplies and tools. Also remember that when we are talking about clones, sometimes you do get what you pay for. As a general rule, the $39 version, and the $20 version are not identical. They can also vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, even if the price is the same. Do your homework!

 

[tj99959]

It will. Mechanical mods will put out ~4.2v-3.5v depending on the battery and how much charge is left. If your coil can't handle 4.2v, you're going to burn.

Honestly, I wouldn't recommend a mechanical mod to anyone who wasn't wanting to build their own sub-ohm coils. If you're using stock coils (Or rebuilding in the 1.5+Ω area), just get a regulated mod like a provari, vamo, mvp, etc... You'll be much happier and safer.

I started using mechanicals long before there was sub ohm, and have already used three of them this morning .. all with 2+ ohm coils.
Mechanicals existed long before regulated mods existed, and you learn how to not get burnt hits by learning what resistance doesn't give you burnt hits.

The thermodynamics of every topper is different, and it's also a matter of air management & wicking that keep a coil at the proper temperature.
It works very much like a car engine, you rely on airflow through the radiator, and a thermostat in the coolant system to keep the engine at the proper temp.
You compensate for battery drop off simply by how wet you keep your coil.

 

[WattWick]

I started using mechanicals long before there was sub ohm, and have already used three of them this morning .. all with 2+ ohm coils.
Mechanicals existed long before regulated mods existed, and you learn how to not get burnt hits by learning what resistance doesn't give you burnt hits.

Heh now that you mention it... I've only been vaping since February last year. Even then it was pretty normal to use unregulated batteries in the form of non-Twist/Spinner eGos. With some kind of clearo on top. At 1.8 ohm or higher. Most often above 2 ohms. If I'm not entirely mistaken, most Joyetech eGos were regulated down to 3.3 or 3.2 volts (?).

 

[Kracker]

Couple of things to think about. In addition to the mech and the dripper, you will need GOOD batteries, a GOOD charger, an ohms meter or DMM, and rebuilding supplies and tools.

Beat me to it.


To get started with mech's you are looking at about $100.00 easy.IMO

 

[Zombiecan]

Beat me to it.


To get started with mech's you are looking at about $100.00 easy.IMO

I have been vaping since February and started with a joyetech ego-cc then made the jump to the mvp v2.0 and then the ProVari and kayfun 3.1 I do all my own rebuilding for everything and I have all the tools needed. I just bought my first mech mod two days ago and with just the mech mod (stingray hcigar clone) a Sony vtc5 and juice (the standard vape Tater) I spent over $110 and like I said that was not even include all the other tools needed which thankfully I already had like the charger,ohm meter/reader/multimeter , rda, cotton (inexpensive), kanthal wire 28g 30g 32g (inexpensive), precision screwdriver set X2 standard and metric, micro torch, trip tips, various juices, tweezers, nail clippers

... Sent from my LG G2

 

[icemanistheking]

As long as we're talking about the juice actually burning and not dry hits, in my experience this happens more in clearos with some juices because of the wire used (too thin I guess, as someone above mentioned). Most people that rebuild will stay in the 26g - 30g range for Kanthal, as I do myself. Using these gauges of wire, I have never had juice actually burn in a dripper, including a certain juice that used to burn in clearos on anything higher than 3.7v, 1.5 ohms+, but not in a .6 ohm dripper build.

tl;dr it's the differences in wire

 

[TBCAmor]

Mvp 2 is a great suggestion. I pretty much use it solely to build now, but I know it's there, and reliable, with a huge battery, and cell phone charging to boot.

I say get a kick and a cheap but well rated clone, if you're worried about vv and juices burning, but as others have said, it's almost always wicking if that's happening. I run 1.2 ohm kayfuns, only sub ohm, and rarely, with my rda. I never have burnt juice unless it's a bad wick job, or just time to re do it. For that reason, I'd not worry about the kick at first.

Also, the mvp 2 is great, but has a 3 amp limit. That means that if you have a low enough ohm coil, you might not really be pushing the power it says, as it's not capable. It will fire to .6 ohms, but it's definitely not putting enough power out, and I wouldn't do it much, especially with a mech around.

The last thing is, unless you have them, you are going to need two batteries at least, and a nice charger. Those are both of the most important things to purchase high quality items with a mech. That will put you out a good 30-45 bucks depending on what and where you get it. That seems it might kill your current budget. Mechs are great, though. I would advise that if you are interested, save a bit more for batts and charger, then get a good clone. You won't regret it.

 

[Tbev]

I didn't read any of the other posts by the answer is wicking, Airflow and the lack of it, lots of people think it's cool to wrap crazy coils but reality is that wicking is the real skill.

 

[Kracker]

I didn't read any of the other posts by the answer is wicking, Airflow and the lack of it, lots of people think it's cool to wrap crazy coils but reality is that wicking is the real skill.

OH. HOW TRUE !! I've been building since Feb. and the coils were the easy part. I still have my moments when I have to rip my wick out and do it again.