Why isn't the drawtube smart v3 the best selling mech of all time?

[Lando80]

I recently bought a Beauticig Drawtube Smart V3 from Constantvapor. This thing is solid. Heavier gauge stainless steel than the smok Natural, quality machining, clean threads with no wobble while extended to 650 mode. It has solid brass battery contacts. The 510 is adjustable and a true flat top (my kayfun lite sits perfectly flush and tight). The spring is brass but easily removed and not needed since the brass negative post is also adjustable. The button is easily moved from pinky to top side mount with none of that pushin the spring funny business like the Sig 20. The firing post is brass and the button throw is smooth as silk with almost no lateral wobble. 350 mode leaves no gap in the shaft unlike the EA. It kicks like a mule. I don't have all the fancy toys nor the knowledge to measure voltage drop but I'm guessing its negligible due to the brass throughout. The finish isn't flawless but its good and the tube is seamless construction I'd give the finish 4 out of 5. The cloners have taken notes and given us everything we've been asking for. This mod needs zero tweaking A true turn key operation for sub fifty bucks. Why is there not a buzz about this thing. I know I sound like a raving fanboy but I was truly floored with this mod's build, features, and performance. If you're not inclined to tinker and want a great cheap mech, this might be for you.

 

[Lando80]

View attachment 234828 View attachment 234829 View attachment 234831 View attachment 234832 View attachment 234833
Sorry about poor quality photos. I'm not much of a reviewer

 

[crxess]

Well, for me, it just looks boring.
Not all #20 have issues. My 2 are working good with spring change.
My 4 KTS CCTS are also power houses.

Just takes a few minutes to check out and prep most Mechanical mods for good performance. Get solid contact from Batt + back to Bat - and they work.

Sorry if I make it sound simple. Auto electronics and Mechanics for 40 years makes understanding DC current simple.

 

[Lando80]

I agree that it is "boring" to look at. I bought this for a pocketable beater mod. And I know that the little tinkering to be done on Sigs and Kamries is super simple. I was just pleasantly surprised to not have to perform a little minor surgery on this one. I also am enjoying the top button configuration. Everything else I've used has been side pinky or bottom firing except my buddy's 20 (which rarely fires correctly). Im glad your 20s are working out for you. I think they are a really sharp looking mod

 

[C1BERUS]

for me DS is the best all rounder, got the airflow and adjustable 510.
but it's dropvolt is a bit bigger than my sentinel clone, which is much cheaper and more pocket friendly because sentinel is much lighter and bottom switch...

DS need a bit tweaking tough, 510 concection and the switch is brass but ss coated, you have to remove that to make it better performance...
I prefer DS on ody, Sentinel clone on RSST

 

[Lando80]

Never tried the sentinel clone but they're on sale for 12 bucks at vapor break right now so that's about to change

 

[crxess]

I agree that it is "boring" to look at. I bought this for a pocketable beater mod. And I know that the little tinkering to be done on Sigs and Kamries is super simple. I was just pleasantly surprised to not have to perform a little minor surgery on this one. I also am enjoying the top button configuration. Everything else I've used has been side pinky or bottom firing except my buddy's 20 (which rarely fires correctly). I'm glad your 20s are working out for you. I think they are a really sharp looking mod

Thanks and Yes - Pocket beaters are awesome! Nice to have that switch flexibility also. I've seen a few mods have adopted that aspect.
Pinky is okay for me but I prefer top button. My arthritis makes bottom fire a real Pain - literally.
Would love to see a Revised (Functional) #20 head become available. Would not hesitate to replace for safety sake.

 

[Lando80]

Quick update. R J @ constant vapor has new tubes for this with updated placement of the vent holes. The new tubes solve the safety issue Constant vapor sent them to me free of charge and unprompted. That's a company I will go out of my way to deal with again

 

[jamiller619]

This thing, IMO, looks bad-...!! I don't like overly-detailed mods. I like things simple and clean in design.

But is the finish polished or brushed? I can't really tell from the pictures on ConstantVapor.

 

[VIPOD]

I've had my Drawtube for several months, and yes, it just hasn't received the fanfare like many others. I'm not really into mech mods, but wanted one to fiddle with my rba's. My max price point was $50, and after reading several reviews on the many clone's, the Drawtube seemed to offer the best build quality (heavy stainless). It works flawlessly, hits every time, the threads are butter, and the "boring" appearance is not an issue for me since all my mods get clothes.

Well worth the $39 I spent at DiscountVapors.

 

[JeremyR]

I'm looking at this and a sigelie #13a both on dv. I do really like this lavafire. I'm wondering If a oddity (23mm) will sit nice on this and have a good (loose) draw.

Ciberus mentioned and oddy on it.. Any pics? How does it fit? How is the draw? Is the oddy essentially the same size as smart v3 . I see that v3 is supposedly 22.63mm oddity 23mm..

 

[Lando80]

I'm looking at this and a sigelie #13a both on dv. I do really like this lavafire. I'm wondering If a oddity (23mm) will sit nice on this and have a good (loose) draw.

Ciberus mentioned and oddy on it.. Any pics? How does it fit? How is the draw? Is the oddy essentially the same size as smart v3 . I see that v3 is supposedly 22.63mm oddity 23mm..

Here's a couple crappy phone pics One in 650 and one in 350. That's an Ithaka clone but should give a good idea

 

[gokusnimbus]

it was my first mod with first rebuildable dripper. sub ohms made the button very hot that it collapsed the button spring and now i dont use it anymore.

 

[scrappy]

it was my first mod with first rebuildable dripper. sub ohms made the button very hot that it collapsed the button spring and now i dont use it anymore.

What resistance was your coil and what battery where you using. That's far more likely to be the culprit not the mod itself.

 

[JeremyR]

Actually IMO, he is running subohms on it, the button probably needs some work. Lots of people with that problem on a sigelie clean the threads of glue at the button.. Which is insulating the button causing resistance.. Something about adding a brass washer to increase contact with the body ..?

How are you guys liking the hexagon button?

 

[gokusnimbus]

What resistance was your coil and what battery where you using. That's far more likely to be the culprit not the mod itself.

it was a standard 3/4 28g wrap on 3mm silica at .8 ohms with aw imr batts. i think something in the button/switch materials is acting as a huge resistor, most likely the spring, which made it get very hot. sub-ohms is very "aggressive" and high drain so using it every day wore it down im guessing.

also within the switch mechanism, the point of contact is very small since a flat surface has to come in contact with a curved surface, it got very hot very quickly.

great mod while it lasted though. probably not meant for sub ohms. OR my drawtube was a defect.

update:
just googled it and i had version 1. v3 probably fixed all the issues i had so forget what i said lol

 

[Lando80]

You are correct about the small contact area of the flat plunger end of the button touching the round pins. I remedied this by removing the plunger and the Delrin from the switch and replacing it with a larger headed flat brass wood screw. But you're also correct that this prob isn't the best mod on the market for sub ohm vaping. I also removed the battery spring as it is completely unnecessary

 

[Jimi Mack]

Has any one else come across any issues with getting a Kick to fire with this unit? For some reason I can not get it to work on V3.

 

[JeremyR]

The kick is going in a threaded portion of this if I recall. That can make for poor contact of the ground tab on the kick. You can add soemthjg to the one side to make it tighter on the contact sid.. or You can try something highly conductive to put on the ground side to make better contact

 

[Jimi Mack]

While I agree with that assessment and tried trouble shooting from there with no luck. I am now in belief that it has to do with the spring at the top.