will this make the MVP obsolete?

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zoiDman

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This is not high grade test equipment or procedure here, so don't read this as anything more than a vague indication, but it gives me a feel that the device might be performing as per specs. But wait for someone with an o-scope to test properly before regarding the numbers as truly accurate.

Yeah.. I am looking forward to seeing Someone with a Scope doing a Full Voltage Review.

All I know if that Everything I have put on it is Working Great. And for the Size and the Price, I Couldn't be Happier.

BTW - Someone asked if it had a Spring Loaded 510 Pin? Mine came from e-Bay and it did Not. But have Yet to have any Problems. And the Gap between everything I have put on it is Normal/Fine.
 

peterforpats

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after living with this for awhile and using it regularly with all sorts of tanks my question is this-how do the other mods get away with the prices they charge? this thing cost less than $35 and does everything i need it to do- how can they charge up to $300 and look you in the eye? this little device has certainly opened my eyes.......
 

oplholik

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I was playing with mine, and I think it is spring loaded. I tightened down the carto till it fires, then I am able to turn it another 1/4 turn before it tightens up. When I take it off, and re install it will do the same thing, so there seems to be some give there in that contact button which rebounds to the original heighth. See if yours does the same thing.
 

salemgold

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I was playing with mine, and I think it is spring loaded. I tightened down the carto till it fires, then I am able to turn it another 1/4 turn before it tightens up. When I take it off, and re install it will do the same thing, so there seems to be some give there in that contact button which rebounds to the original heighth. See if yours does the same thing.

Mine does that too. But, I was not able to budge the center pin using a pen without a topper on the unit.
 

zoiDman

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OK.

I told Myself that I was going to Wait at Lease 1 Day before I did this. But I Couldn't Resist. I got out a T6 TORX Bit and Removed the Bottom Cover.

It came off without any Magic Smoke Emissions or having to so any Vise-Grip Prying. Just came off. Inside is just what you would Expect. A Cell and a Board. LOL.

So I Unscrewed the Top Screws. An Gently Pried Off the Top Cover. No Surprise here either. Two Wires Connected to a Non-Spring 510 Connecter.

Feeling Bold, and Under a Slight Nicotine Buzz from Chain Vaping an iStick Constantly, I gave the Board/Batter a Slight Nudge from the End Cap Side. It moved about .090". So it Looks like a person can De-Gut an iStick by Pushing All the Innards out from the Non-510 End.

At this Point, Feeling I had Cheated iStick Death, I put it all Back Together.

But from what I saw, it Looks like when the Battery Fails, that it Should be Possible to Replace it with an Off the Shelf 18650 Flat Top.

:)
 

zoiDman

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So in a way iStck isn't very disposable - great news!

It Looks like it. But I can't Say 100%

I just Can't Make Myself Push the Board/Cell out all the Way to see what Happens. Maybe when I get to the 24 Hour Mark? Or at Least until my 2nd iStick Ships will I do Another MOD-Ectomy.

This iStick is So Nice I would Feel Horrible if I lost it while it was "Under the Knife".
 

salemgold

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It Looks like it. But I can't Say 100%

I just Can't Make Myself Push the Board/Cell out all the Way to see what Happens. Maybe when I get to the 24 Hour Mark? Or at Least until my 2nd iStick Ships will I do Another MOD-Ectomy.

This iStick is So Nice I would Feel Horrible if I lost it while "Under the Knife".

I don't blame you at all. You should wait at least until you have iStick #2 in hand.
 

peterforpats

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I was playing with mine, and I think it is spring loaded. I tightened down the carto till it fires, then I am able to turn it another 1/4 turn before it tightens up. When I take it off, and re install it will do the same thing, so there seems to be some give there in that contact button which rebounds to the original heighth. See if yours does the same thing.

it is not spring loaded and if you continue to overtighten it you will mess it up eventually. got it? NOT spring loaded- time to move on from this piece of misinformation......
 

salemgold

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OK.

I told Myself that I was going to Wait at Lease 1 Day before I did this. But I Couldn't Resist. I got out a T6 TORX Bit and Removed the Bottom Cover.

It came off without any Magic Smoke Emissions or having to so any Vise-Grip Prying. Just came off. Inside is just what you would Expect. A Cell and a Board. LOL.

So I Unscrewed the Top Screws. An Gently Pried Off the Top Cover. No Surprise here either. Two Wires Connected to a Non-Spring 510 Connecter.

Feeling Bold, and Under a Slight Nicotine Buzz from Chain Vaping an iStick Constantly, I gave the Board/Batter a Slight Nudge from the End Cap Side. It moved about .090". So it Looks like a person can De-Gut an iStick by Pushing All the Innards out from the Non-510 End.

At this Point, Feeling I had Cheated iStick Death, I put it all Back Together.

But from what I saw, it Looks like when the Battery Fails, that it Should be Possible to Replace it with an Off the Shelf 18650 Flat Top.

:)

Pretty sure that ZM just confirmed that for us above.

it is not spring loaded and if you continue to overtighten it you will mess it up eventually. got it? NOT spring loaded- time to move on from this piece of misinformation......
 

salemgold

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Cool now to replace the screws with magnets and the pac for an 18650 and it will be the prefect little mod. I hate rechargeable myself i like to run my batteries nice and fresh. Well before they run out of juice.

These are rechargeable and you can charge when you want to charge. It does not take very long to charge them either.
 

zoiDman

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Cool now to replace the screws with magnets and the pac for an 18650 and it will be the prefect little mod. I hate rechargeable myself i like to run my batteries nice and fresh. Well before they run out of juice.

If you want to go that Route, and are OK with 7W ~ 30W, maybe you should consider a ZNA?

a9yvygy8.jpg
 

roxynoodle

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Roxynoodle,

You said cheap meter, so I assume it's not true RMS reading? Does the meter reading jump around or is it steady? mine jumps around. Also the istick will not fire without an atty attached. Is yours an in-line meter?

I wish I had an adapter that would let me use my true RMS DMM in-line. Edit - Unless it's putting out a sine wave, true RMS would not help.

Yes, its an inline one. My ohm reader has a place you can test a mod. I should compare them.
 
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