Your experience pushing big power/low resistance through 20d?

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bapgood

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Does the dna 20 have an actual low resistance cutoff, or is it strictly based on the voltage/wattage handling?

I'm not sure on that. I'm pretty sure it will only boost power. It flashes when the wattage is set to low for the resistance, but I don't think it will fire until the wattage is adjusted up.
 

retird

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Pbusardo video has info of his use of low resistance rebuildables....here you go...if you don't want to view the whole video you can fast forward and start at 14:10 to see graphs at different ohms.....or 21:00 for discussion only on low resistance

A PBusardo Review - The Opus D & The DNA-20 - YouTube
 
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bapgood

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Nice link!....that is firetrucking awesome!!!

I'm just getting into the lower ohm stuff and had always just kinda followed the spec sheet.

I'm going to talk to Evolv about possible issues, but if there aren't any the DNA will be a mech mod killer (but possibly very dangerous to people if they aren't careful). But I think my 6000mah 65c battery and 7.5amp fuse are up to the task for some R&D.


Pbusardo video has info of his use of low resistance rebuildables....here you go...if you don't want to view the whole video you can fast forward and start at 14:10 to see graphs at different ohms.....or 21:00 for discussion only on low resistance

A PBusardo Review - The Opus D & The DNA-20 - YouTube
 

dr g

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Pbusardo video has info of his use of low resistance rebuildables....here you go...if you don't want to view the whole video you can fast forward and start at 14:10 to see graphs at different ohms.....or 21:00 for discussion only on low resistance

A PBusardo Review - The Opus D & The DNA-20 - YouTube

Thanks, this is a lot of the info I have been looking for. Phil does a great job considering his layman's approach and usually gets things right enough to work with.

So here's a question (I guess several questions) -- what is it that allows an atomizer device to handle big power? From what I'm gathering the sub ohm stuff has basically to this point been for the purpose of pulling big power out of unboosted/mech mods, so with a mod like a DNA, you don't need resistances that low since it will push big power reliably. Is that correct?

Yet none of my devices seem to be able to handle much more than 10-11 watts without getting burnt wick taste (my RBA collection is limited, Drunker and Octopus). But I have seen some people running big power through their Octopi using mech mods and sub ohm coils.

Ostensibly, 20 watts out of a high resistance coil ought to be easier on the battery than 20 watts at super low resistance, no?

What has been keeping people from doing high resistance coils on prior mosfet switched regulated devices? Does the DNA handle that much more current?
 
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bapgood

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As to RBA's handling big power.....IMO its not the RBA that is able to handle high power, it's the wick/coil's ability to efficiently wick and vaporize the liquid at the high power. A low ohm coil heats up really quick.

To my knowledge the DNA is the only variable power devise that will handle low ohm coils as well as its 20w capacity (which is higher than most all others), plus from the review it looks like the DNA has the ability to pass full battery voltage a lot more efficiently than mech mods.

I'm still waiting to here back from Evolv on using for sub ohm stuff.
 

dr g

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To attempt to answer some of my own questions ... it seems that the primary issue with doing high wattage/high resistance using other current regulated devices is limited voltage range: Most devices such as the provari, zmax, vamo, etc. top out at 6.0v. With a 3.0 ohm coil that's a max of 12 watts. The DNA can do 8.3v which is almost 23 watts at 3.0 ohms

Regarding pushing high wattage/low resistance using other regulated devices, the limitations seem to be: 1) hard cutoffs, some boards will simply throw errors below a certain resistance rather than fire (zmax, vamo etc seem to go no lower than 1.5 ohm, provari supposedly can do around 1.0 ohm), 2) current handling of the chipset (provari seems to be in the 3.8a range, which is 14.44w at 1.0 ohm).

So I guess it really is an issue of the robustness of the DNA chipset allowing higher voltage and current, plus the lack of a programmed low resistance cutoff (there may be one but apparently it's less than .8 ohm per pbusardo's results).
 

dr g

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As to RBA's handling big power.....IMO its not the RBA that is able to handle high power, it's the wick/coil's ability to efficiently wick and vaporize the liquid at the high power. A low ohm coil heats up really quick.

I'm wondering what it is about the coil/wick design that does that ... a larger/fatter wick (ostensibly larger coils/more surface area)?
 

bapgood

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I'm wondering what it is about the coil/wick design that does that ... a larger/fatter wick (ostensibly larger coils/more surface area)?

That is still in the air IMO. I never really liked ss mesh so I didn't mess with it to much. But I have been getting some great results with ceramic wicks and ribbon kanthal. A setup will vary to a persons preference and devise.
 

dr g

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That is still in the air IMO. I never really liked ss mesh so I didn't mess with it to much. But I have been getting some great results with ceramic wicks and ribbon kanthal. A setup will vary to a persons preference and devise.

I guess this sort of dovetails into the "watts don't matter" post in the main mod forum, it is possible to have a less efficient coil setup that just eats more power.

How much power are you pushing through your setups?
 

bapgood

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I guess this sort of dovetails into the "watts don't matter" post in the main mod forum, it is possible to have a less efficient coil setup that just eats more power.

How much power are you pushing through your setups?

It varies between setups (wick diameter, coil wire used, coil ohm), and I have been keeping the coils around 1.2 to 1.5 ohms to stay within the DNA specs, but anywhere from 12-16 watts typically with those.
 

retird

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Joined the conversation late but from my experience a burnt taste is from a dry coil or from a coil that is heating the juice too much...more power does not equate to a great vape....I can say that a low ohm coil at 20 watts will not be pleasant....

I've been using Evolv products for over 2 years exclusively and my happy place is a 3.0 ohm carto at 8.4/8.5 watts.....never a burnt taste and never a "popped carto". I'm not to sure (because I haven't tried it) but a sub ohm coil at 20 watts will have a short lifespan.....

Let us know what you think after you apply 20 watts to a sub-ohm coil.....

The low resistance carto's/atty's were first made to use with 3.7 volt mechanical mods to put a bit more heat to the coil, but with the advent of Variable voltage and variable wattage low resistence is not needed as you can raise (or lower) the voltage/wattage with the device, where you could not with a mechanical device.

Example: 8.5 watts with a 3.0 ohm coil gives you a voltage of 5.04 volts.....8.5 watts with a .7 ohm coil would need to have a voltage of 2.43 volts to give you the same vape experience...

And 8.5 watts with a 3.0 ohm coil requires 1.68 amps where 8.5 watts with a .7 ohm coil requires 3.48 amps. Thus battery life is shortened when using a coil that requires more amperage.
 
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