Why so expensive? I'm going to be ordering a ProVari soon, which comes with a Kanger Protank 2 (and costs $15 individually). Compared to the Z-Atty-Pro, what's the huge difference? I tried doing some research but I honestly am not certain of what makes that price gap so large. Anyone care to enlighten the noob?
Z-Atty-Price
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Quality is why. There's no comparison between a Protank & a ZAP. The Protank may or may not work well whilst the ZAP when setup properly will blow your socks off.
Protank is a clearo. Silka or cotton wick, usually replaced.
Zap is rebuildble atomizer. Stainless wick is generally used, rebuilt. More expensive to manufacture(quartz glass, surgical SS i think) more material, more complex.
They are actually both rebuildable.
Zap is actually a bad idea for provari's due to the amp limit, meaning you cannot run things close to sub ohms, and that where they really shine.
Oh and not all protanks are compatible with provari's.. Will need air controller.
here is a pic for ya of both.
Zap is rebuildble atomizer. Stainless wick is generally used, rebuilt. More expensive to manufacture(quartz glass, surgical SS i think) more material, more complex.
They are actually both rebuildable.
Zap is actually a bad idea for provari's due to the amp limit, meaning you cannot run things close to sub ohms, and that where they really shine.
Oh and not all protanks are compatible with provari's.. Will need air controller.
here is a pic for ya of both.
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Yeah untill you get your error codes.. Don't kid a new vaper with that jazz.. Rebuildables and provaris are finicky especially when you're new to the game. I will agree that cotton wicks are easier to manage, but figuring out the ohms and coil winding alone can be overwhelming.
Plenty of people will tell you the they have never had problems with protanks, while the rest of the world has issues with them. Granted it is just a learning curve until you fully understand. Either way you will run into the problems I have discussed.
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So what would be a good quality tank to start out with? I have been looking at the Kanger and ZAP, what about the IBTanked 22mm? I heard a lot of people are a fan of that. Going from a Halo Triton to a ProVari, so it's like a new world to me. I just don't want to run into a bunch of problems when I first start out with the ProVari. I'm also planning on attending a rebuild class at a local B&M once I figure out what I'm doing.
IBtanked is good, very good. But I use the ZAP a lot more. Micro coil with cotton at 1.6 ohms. Not good luck with ss mesh, but I'm going to try ss rope soon.
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I haven't gotten any error codes when I build it. I do get them when I'm just using the Provari to check builds for my mechs but not when I'm doing a ZAP build.
I went from an Ego to a Provari in my first week of vaping and a ZAP the second week. Yeah there was a learning curve but I managed pretty well.
...and yes, IMO protanks do indeed suck...so do cartos
I went from an Ego to a Provari in my first week of vaping and a ZAP the second week. Yeah there was a learning curve but I managed pretty well.
...and yes, IMO protanks do indeed suck...so do cartos
I had a zap.. my first genesis. I liked it well enough but a genesis with mesh just isn't a good match with a provari (for me... and I'm a big provari fan) I now run cotton in my genesis attys and that works a lot better with the provari (for me) A good tank that works well is the kayfun lite. It's cheaper than the zap and easier (or at least just as easy) to build.
I traded my zap back before I got into cotton.. now I kinda wish I hadn't.
edit... the IBTank is a carto tank. If you can find Baditude.. he has blog entries that explain how to use them.
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You have to remember that the Zen devices, like ZAP, ZAU, etc., came along before the more recent sub ohm craze. The ZAPs came equipped with an insulated wick hole, ridiculously skinny wick, and a pre wrapped, 2.0 ohm coil with 32g wire. They worked reasonably well, for what we knew at the time, on a Provari. That original build still does, at least in comparison to Pro Tank type devices. In videos and on forums, Zen (Mike) himself was adamant about using no heavier than 32g wire.
Since those original Zen builds, fatter wicks, heavier wire, and lower resistance became more popular. People began removing the wick hole insulator, rolling bigger wicks, and wrapping coils with lower resistance. Provari obliged, somewhat, by increasing the maximum amperage cut off to 3.5, from the original 2.5, and lowering the minimum voltage from 3.3V to 2.9V. This allowed a theoretical resistance build down to about .8 ohms. But the resulting wattage, before the maximum amp limit is reached, is less than 10 watts. Not really adequate for todays big wire, fat coil, sub ohm builds.
I guess my point is, the ZAP is a very well made device. Machining is second to none. The quartz tank is the best you can get. But, on the whole, the ZAP/Provari set up is somewhat dated.
Since those original Zen builds, fatter wicks, heavier wire, and lower resistance became more popular. People began removing the wick hole insulator, rolling bigger wicks, and wrapping coils with lower resistance. Provari obliged, somewhat, by increasing the maximum amperage cut off to 3.5, from the original 2.5, and lowering the minimum voltage from 3.3V to 2.9V. This allowed a theoretical resistance build down to about .8 ohms. But the resulting wattage, before the maximum amp limit is reached, is less than 10 watts. Not really adequate for todays big wire, fat coil, sub ohm builds.
I guess my point is, the ZAP is a very well made device. Machining is second to none. The quartz tank is the best you can get. But, on the whole, the ZAP/Provari set up is somewhat dated.
The ProTank is a good start for someone new. There is plenty of time to learn more about carto tanks and RBAs later. But here is a blog to get you started:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-carto-tank-what-guide-juice-attachments.html
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-carto-tank-what-guide-juice-attachments.html
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