ZAP-What the heck is going on?

[MxChino]

Bought a used zap here on the classifieds and I'm having an issue. I wrapped a coil that came out to two ohms which is exactly what I wanted. I brush the coils and get a nice even glow. I fill the tank up, flip it upside down to get the juice flowing, pop the cap on and start vaping. As soon as I do, I can tell something isn't right. I take off the cap and fire it again right away the top coil glows, hot spot. I drain the juice brush the coils get them all glowing and refill. Same thing, every, single, time. What am I doing wrong? I've already gone through a crap load of kanthal and this one for the most part is the best performing one. Any tips?

Edit: I did remove the insulator because I didn't really care for the stock wicks. The previous owner did send along 2x 400 mesh wicks he made which does wick the juice much better than the stock ones.

 

[donnah]

Whenever I've had a top coil hot spot.. it's the top wrap being too tight or too loose. Make sure the tension is even. When I wrap the top coil, I wrap it counter clock wise so when I tighten it down, the tightening action doesn't pull the coil too tight. Hold the top wire steady when you tighten the screw. My zap has been the easiest to set up of my rbas.. it also seems to be the one that stays set up the best without having to constantly adjust the coils. The coil on mine is metering 1.4 right now.

 

[tenshi]

Bought a used zap here on the classifieds and I'm having an issue. I wrapped a coil that came out to two ohms which is exactly what I wanted. I brush the coils and get a nice even glow. I fill the tank up, flip it upside down to get the juice flowing, pop the cap on and start vaping. As soon as I do, I can tell something isn't right. I take off the cap and fire it again right away the top coil glows, hot spot. I drain the juice brush the coils get them all glowing and refill. Same thing, every, single, time. What am I doing wrong? I've already gone through a crap load of kanthal and this one for the most part is the best performing one. Any tips?

Edit: I did remove the insulator because I didn't really care for the stock wicks. The previous owner did send along 2x 400 mesh wicks he made which does wick the juice much better than the stock ones.

Usually, for me, if the top coil gets a hot spot, but not the others, I nudge the middle coils (because the middle coil may be choking it off) and/or undo and re-tighten the nut making sure it's close to the top nut but not touching it. Also, I never drain the juice, I just pulse it with a low voltage and nudge it until there is no hot spot. Hope this helps.

 

[flintlock62]

The wire length between the post and the wick may be too long. You need to keep it at a fairly short distance. PBusardo's video shows how the length of the wire from the post should be.

Edit: I'm new to RBA's too, and I will be going to the local hardware store tomorrow to look for the proper sized SS washers (2) of them to use on the top nut. Sandwiching the wire between the nuts will shorten the distance of the top wire.

Bought a used zap here on the classifieds and I'm having an issue. I wrapped a coil that came out to two ohms which is exactly what I wanted. I brush the coils and get a nice even glow. I fill the tank up, flip it upside down to get the juice flowing, pop the cap on and start vaping. As soon as I do, I can tell something isn't right. I take off the cap and fire it again right away the top coil glows, hot spot. I drain the juice brush the coils get them all glowing and refill. Same thing, every, single, time. What am I doing wrong? I've already gone through a crap load of kanthal and this one for the most part is the best performing one. Any tips?

Edit: I did remove the insulator because I didn't really care for the stock wicks. The previous owner did send along 2x 400 mesh wicks he made which does wick the juice much better than the stock ones.

 

[SteveW]

+ 1 on the tight top coil. Don't pull too tight toward the center post. The length of wire connecting the wick to the post should not be an issue. It is often tightening the screw that causes the problem because it pulls the wire tight toward the post. I am sure you will figure it out. Deep breath, take a break, come back and loosen the coil a little at the top and see how it goes.

 

[MxChino]

I built another coil. Instead of going halfway around the top post I just kinda made it straight and tightened it down. I think when I was going part way around it would pull on the top coil causing the hot spot. This one appears to be better but I just went back to the phiniac tank for the night. Ill mess with it more tomorrow.

 

[Rule62]

I always wrap the top connection around the center post counter clockwise. This prevents putting extra pressure on the top wrap on the wick, when snugging the screw or nut.

 

[donnah]

The wire length between the post and the wick may be too long. You need to keep it at a fairly short distance. PBusardo's video shows how the length of the wire from the post should be.

Edit: I'm new to RBA's too, and I will be going to the local hardware store tomorrow to look for the proper sized SS washers (2) of them to use on the top nut. Sandwiching the wire between the nuts will shorten the distance of the top wire.

I just watched this video and kinda cringed when he did the coil with the Petar K method. When he attached the top coil he did it counter clockwise but it actually twisted the wire around and it was pretty loose. Notice that he had a hot spot there at the top and couldn't seem to get rid of it. He vaped it anyway and wasn't too happy with the vape. I haven't had much luck with the petar K/drill bit method. I like wrapping my coils on the wick before I put it in the hole and then attach the wires. I seem to get more even tension around the wick this way.

 

[flintlock62]

That part's easy for me, I'm left handed!

I always wrap the top connection around the center post counter clockwise. This prevents putting extra pressure on the top wrap on the wick, when snugging the screw or nut.

 

[tenshi]

+ 1 on the tight top coil. Don't pull too tight toward the center post. The length of wire connecting the wick to the post should not be an issue. It is often tightening the screw that causes the problem because it pulls the wire tight toward the post. I am sure you will figure it out. Deep breath, take a break, come back and loosen the coil a little at the top and see how it goes.

Hi Steve, I always heard to make sure that the wire between the wick and the negative (and positive) poles to be as short as possible since this area of the wire has no liquid on it... So if there is too much wire in between then it may cause a burned or metallic taste which has been my experience as well. I'm not disputing you (I learn something new every day in this forum), just trying to understand thanks. ^^

(Or anyone else who has had different experiences than myself, thanks.)

 

[SteveW]

Hi Steve, I always heard to make sure that the wire between the wick and the negative (and positive) poles to be as short as possible since this area of the wire has no liquid on it... So if there is too much wire in between then it may cause a burned or metallic taste which has been my experience as well. I'm not disputing you (I learn something new every day in this forum), just trying to understand thanks. ^^

(Or anyone else who has had different experiences than myself, thanks.)

Hi Tenshi, Thanks for inquiring because that is how we learn. it is a common misapprehension that the hot leg issue is the result of being unexposed to the liquid, this is not the case. Invariably it is the result of a short. with the top coil this happens often because of the tension pulling the wire into the wick producing contact with the steel, disturbing the oxidation layer. Here is a picture courtesy of Jasl90 that shows how a good coil works, simple science:



you will notice at either end the wire is cool and in the middle it is glowing (nothing exposed to liquid of any kind). The middle of the coil is where there is the most resistance and where the coil will be hottest. Liquid cooling has nothing to do with it.

If you want to read more there is a thread in this forum you may want to have a look at:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/rebuildable-atomizer-systems/382721-busting-top-hot-spot-myth.html

 

[tenshi]

Hi Tenshi, Thanks for inquiring because that is how we learn. it is a common misapprehension that the hot leg issue is the result of being unexposed to the liquid, this is not the case. Invariably it is the result of a short. with the top coil this happens often because of the tension pulling the wire into the wick producing contact with the steel, disturbing the oxidation layer. Here is a picture courtesy of Jasl90 that shows how a good coil works, simple science:

View attachment 194256

you will notice at either end the wire is cool and in the middle it is glowing (nothing exposed to liquid of any kind). The middle of the coil is where there is the most resistance and where the coil will be hottest. Liquid cooling has nothing to do with it.

If you want to read more there is a thread in this forum you may want to have a look at:

http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/rebuildable-atomizer-systems/382721-busting-top-hot-spot-myth.html

Thanks Steve ^^

 

[SteveW]

Thanks Steve ^^

You are very welcome . The whole thing becomes completely obvious when you use something like a porous ceramic wick (which are absolutely fabulous by the way) which cannot produce a short. When you dry fire your coils on these you look at it and it heats from the middle with either end remaining the coolest spots on the coil. A real "A Ha!" moment when you do this for the first time.

Cheers.

 

[pdib]

here's some legs. Length doesn't matter.

View attachment 194259 View attachment 194260
View attachment 194261 View attachment 194262

 

[pdib]

Good point on the ceramic, SteveW. The pics above show how the hottest area of the coil favors the positive post in my first pic ▲; whereas it is perfectly centered on the stone. (I had been wondering about that lack of symmetry in the steel, and your above comment popped my light bulb.) I'll betcha; when my ss coils glow symmetrical, I will taste no steel.

 

[SteveW]

here's some legs. Length doesn't matter.

Sad thing is that in spite of the evidence to the contrary, as we know some will still want to argue about this. And being Easter let me just say, "The truth shall set you free!"

 

[MxChino]

Bought a used zap here on the classifieds and I'm having an issue. I wrapped a coil that came out to two ohms which is exactly what I wanted. I brush the coils and get a nice even glow. I fill the tank up, flip it upside down to get the juice flowing, pop the cap on and start vaping. As soon as I do, I can tell something isn't right. I take off the cap and fire it again right away the top coil glows, hot spot. I drain the juice brush the coils get them all glowing and refill. Same thing, every, single, time. What am I doing wrong? I've already gone through a crap load of kanthal and this one for the most part is the best performing one. Any tips?

Edit: I did remove the insulator because I didn't really care for the stock wicks. The previous owner did send along 2x 400 mesh wicks he made which does wick the juice much better than the stock ones.

Argh, so frustrating. Again, I build a new coil and it glows beautifully, fill with juice and fire it, hot spot. I even put the insulator back in and went with stock wicks. Same freaking thing. Thing is its ,vaping really good now. 1.8 ohm coil at 4.5 watts.

 

[SteveW]

Good point on the ceramic, SteveW. The pics above show how the hottest area of the coil favors the positive post in my first pic ▲; whereas it is perfectly centered on the stone. (I had been wondering about that lack of symmetry in the steel, and your above comment popped my light bulb.) I'll betcha; when my ss coils glow symmetrical, I will taste no steel.

That glowing coil on the stone is perfection itself. That is what every wick builder is aiming for and for the initiated in ceramics, it is what you will get every time without even trying . Symmetry of your wick as you say may give you a few problems Pdib. If your wick is slightly thicker towards the positive post then there is more wire there and hence the centre point of most resistance will move that way slightly. Maybe a little hard to get just right but I am sure you can get very close with persistance. A trade off may be to have the wick slightly thicker in the middle where you want most of the heat to be and taper the area where the coil makes contact at the top and bottom. Just speculating . . .

 

[MxChino]

Omg I'm an idiot, but i figured it out. Thanks guys.

 

[pdib]

Huh? . . . . wha'? . . . . oh yeah, MxChino, sorry man, what was it?