The costs of running this huge site are paid for by ads. Please consider registering and becoming a Supporting Member for an ad-free experience. Thanks, ECF team.

ZMAX Mini V2 Questions on RMS vs Mean

Discussion in 'New Members Forum' started by JustinFacts, Nov 4, 2013.

Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.
Image has been removed.
URL has been removed.
Email address has been removed.
Media has been removed.
  1. JustinFacts

    JustinFacts Full Member

    Ok, so I was having constant issues with eGo batteries and Kanger ProTanks. So I got a ZMAX Mini V2 and it has been much better. Initially it seemed to work great. I used the RMS setting because I was told the voltage was to high on the Mean setting, but recently I have switched to the Mean (at a lower voltage than normal). The RMS setting seems to not produce a lot of vapor, and if I go to high in voltage it burns out the coil. But, on the Mean setting @ 3.5v using a 2.5ohm coil it seems to work great. However I am having a few issues.

    Kanger ProTank is also having some issues. I have more than one ProTank. When I tighten one of them down all the way it shows an unknown error code 00.0. If I back it out a little bit then it starts to work, but its not usable since it wobbles. It seems like the base is the issue, because when I use a different base on the same tank with the ZMAX it works fine. What I dont know is what could cause the base to not connect or short out?

    Questions:

    1. What is the approximate difference in Voltage on the Mean setting?
    2. Why would the RMS setting seem to produce less vapor than Mean?
    3. What could cause the ProTank not to connect? If the base is the issue what would cause it to go bad?
    4. Is there a tank that works better? Or maybe try a Cartomizer?
     
  2. suspectK

    suspectK Vaping Master Verified Member ECF Veteran

    Aug 7, 2013
    Alabummer
    The options with the zmax and a few other PV's are direct voltage and RMS voltage/pulse voltage. Direct voltage is a constant, no-range value. It fires at 6Volts(we'll use 6Volts as the variable in this post), it doesn't fluctuate from 6Volts. RMS is pulse voltage. The frequency of your PV will determine how long the value will stay at 6Volts and drop to a certain value. RMS is suppose to work out to 6Volts half of the time, and 0 Volts for the other half of the time. That won't work well for vaping. Here is a picture of RMS at 6Volts on my vape-pro:
    2013103195162703.jpg
    The highest point would be the output setting, and the lowest voltage value (4.24Volts) is the lowest value. This output fluctuates from 4.24Volts to 6Volts at 33.3Hz.
    I can't find the picture of direct voltage/NEA operating..I'll remeasure it and post both pictures again later if I have the time, but direct voltage will just be a straight line.

    The voltage fluctuation in RMS will have a total amount of Power/Watts less than direct voltage..creating a slightly noticeable decrease in vapor production. I've found this to be beneficial to different flavors, or if my atomizer is a little cold.

    I'm not too familiar with the contact on the protank, but most of the time if you're having trouble making contact, a little wiggle back and forth on your atomizers contact will be more than enough to make full contact with the firing pin. I can't think of a reason why it would function loose and not tight...

    I use cartomizers and RBA's. I'm going to try the iclear30s, just to try it, but there is a reason I use cartomizers for most of my out and about use...I can't afford to replace them all with Kayfun style atomizers, and if I did replace them, I would just have that many more flavors going at once..lol.

    Edit- I just realized, I only brought my MVP to work. If I remember to bring a scopemeter home, I'll take the pictures of direct voltage being metered, but you can also do this with a multimeter. RMS can't be shown with a simple multimeter, but it will show you the mean voltage. My fluke 1597 showed me the same reading of 4.24 Volts in RMS, but nothing more.
     
  3. JustinFacts

    JustinFacts Full Member

    Thanks. I really appreciate all the input. I'll have to pickup a meter. Is there one you would recommend to read the output voltage, wattage, resistance, etc. Preferable one that can read the RMS pulse. But I dont know if that would be really expensive.

    As far as the connection issue I cannot figure it out. It seems to be the base, because replacing one fixed the issue. The weird part is that all my bases worked fine, and then they all seemed to start acting up at the same time. Almost like something damaged them. I have 4 eGo batteries, I dont know if 1 of them could be damaging it? I just dont see how since it isnt a movable part, or anything.
     
  4. Vapoor eyes er

    Vapoor eyes er ECF Guru ECF Veteran

    Sep 13, 2011
    Toronto, Ont.
    PB talks about the voltage starting at 26:26 mins.
    Looks at voltage charts at 29:29.


     
Thread Status:
Not open for further replies.

Share This Page

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
    Dismiss Notice