zmax v2 circuit board--- what would the dc power requirements be?
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Thanks, I have done a casual look around for a 5-7v 5 amp ac to dc psu but no luck so far. Think I saw the pro-vari adapter a long time ago when considering a provari.... alas the combination of a provari and the adapter is way more than I want to spend.
Depending on the cost of an ac-dc adapter with enough oomph, should be able to construct a device for half little more than half of the provari adapter alone. And that with remote settings switch than can be easily swapped out when fails along with the fire switch.
appreciate the input thanks man
Power_Out ~= Power_In
Power = Volts * Amps
-Some power is used by the zmax, so Power_out is a little less. I think 10% waste should be more than enough.
Not familiar with the Zmax but if it outputs 15 Watts Max:
-needs 10% more power in, so figure 16.5 Watts in
assuming 5V in is ok:
Power= Volts *Amps
Amps = Power / Volts = 16.5W / 5V = 3.3 Amps
allow for a 20% safety factor typical in electronics design
3.3 Amps * 1.2 = 3.96 Amps
So, a 5V 4A supply should do it.
Thanks DKP#, that was the info was looking for, found assorted supplies that meet or exceed those specs, hoped to be able to power of a usb ac-dc wart, could not find any meeting the specs provided. It apparently can be done the provari 65 dollar deal, but have no idea what is in it, not very knowledgeable about electronic circuitry, and that an overstatement!
I do have a torn down VV mod, one those cheap plastic ones forget what they are/were called, off a 5v 2.1 usb wart, it powers up and does everything 'cept fire, give me a LO readout, so think that will be a good test unit using something with the specs you provided.
Doghead, going the rebuild-able coil/tank/attie route might be something I will get into in the future, but have enough replacement coils for assorted tanks to last oh 1-1.5 years easy...I seem to get a couple months at least per.
BuzzKilla; thanking you again for your input/advice...way too pricey for me for awhile.
In fact the whole project is now on hold, car is in trouble (hit a puddle that was a small pond, private sewer line and the development firm well can guess what they said when I called, and w/o now a sat image of the location on the date and time, to prove they did not have the proper warning cones/signs/barricades etc.. am SOL, google maps only has up till 2011
)
Ahh the best laid plans of Mice and Men eh?
I do have a torn down VV mod, one those cheap plastic ones forget what they are/were called, off a 5v 2.1 usb wart, it powers up and does everything 'cept fire, give me a LO readout, so think that will be a good test unit using something with the specs you provided.
Doghead, going the rebuild-able coil/tank/attie route might be something I will get into in the future, but have enough replacement coils for assorted tanks to last oh 1-1.5 years easy...I seem to get a couple months at least per.
BuzzKilla; thanking you again for your input/advice...way too pricey for me for awhile.
In fact the whole project is now on hold, car is in trouble (hit a puddle that was a small pond, private sewer line and the development firm well can guess what they said when I called, and w/o now a sat image of the location on the date and time, to prove they did not have the proper warning cones/signs/barricades etc.. am SOL, google maps only has up till 2011
)Ahh the best laid plans of Mice and Men eh?
A problem you may have is that regulated mods monitor the voltage input and shut off when the battery is low (somewhere around 3.2V) to prevent battery damage.
The mod may "think" that 5V is two stacked very low batteries and not fire .
You may have to use a Voltage that will be interpreted as a charged battery or two batteries.
3.3 to 4.2 volts OR 6.6 to 8.4V
With a different voltage, the supply current would need to be recalculated.
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