Help please! Switch buzzing. What is it and why?

[SIX3SIX]

Hey everybody, I was wondering if I could get some help? Ive been using my new 18500 work horse for a couple weeks now and every once and a while I get this buzzing or vibration in the switch. Its also happened on my 350 work horse and my ela. Ive had my ela since the first batch and its done it a few time but hasn't in a really long time.

My question is why does it do this and how can I fix it? It kind of freakes me out a little. I only use aw imr batteries. Ive cleaned every square inch of the device even the inner threads of the button. I clean with warm soapy water and dry fully. It happens when the device is clean or dirty. Doesnt matter as it very intermittent. Ive seen this talked about before so I know im not the only one. Im just out of ideas and need some help solving this mystery.

Other than that I love my supert devices. They truly are the best of the best. My ela and strata is the best set up I have. Other than my provari, supert mods will be all i own once i sell a couple more. Really, who needs anything else. Cant wait for the strata tank.

Thanks so much for any help. I greatly appreciate it.

 

[eyerhere]

I am not framiliar with either of those mods but kinda thinking you need to tighten your battery a bit.

 

[Riverboat]

Ive been using my new 18500 work horse for a couple weeks now and every once and a while I get this buzzing or vibration in the switch.
Cant wait for the strata tank.

Never heard of a buzzing switch ?? What is this Strata tank I keep hearing about ??

 

[SIX3SIX]

Never heard of a buzzing switch ?? What is this Strata tank I keep hearing about ??

You can see a glimpse of the tank in david video about how to set up the workhorse. Its in the upper left corner.

The swithch thing is wierd. Ive heard people talk about it happening with really low resistance but I run my kayfun at 1.4 ohms and I know there is no shorts in it. Tried my odin dripper on it and it does the same thing. Thats also a 1.4 ohm coil.

 

[SIX3SIX]

not framiliar with either of those mods but kinda thinking you need to tighten your battery a bit.

Not sure what you mean by tightening my battery but im running an aw imr 18490 button top. Im running the workhorse how it came set up with two thick orings and the brass spacer in the switch. The battery is nice and snug in the tube.

 

[ericd07]

same thing happened to me tonight. not sure what's causing it

 

[SIX3SIX]

same thing happened to me tonight. not sure what's causing it

Its very strange. My ela started doing it again last night. Only did it a couple times. How old are your batteries?

My batteries are a year old but I have four of them designated for the workhorse and four of them designated for the ela. So chargin two at a time every other day they cant have that many cycles on them. Either way im gonna order some new batts this week to see if thats the problem.

Id still really like to know what is causing this though. It cant be a short. Is it current feeding back through the switch? If so why? Why does it vibrate and not shock? Does the rhodium have resistance? Maybe david will see this and shed some light. If not maybe ill send supert an email.

ETA - I dont have any black arc marks on my switch or housing either.

 

[forcedfuel50]

All Negative ground mods (so called mechanical mods) complete the circuit mechanically. The returning DC current flows from the atomizer, through the body and then flows from the body/lock ring/bottom cap (depending on mod design and brand ) to the switch and from there it flows from the switch to the battery. All of these connections are made via "friction" (hence a mechanical mod, no wires). What you are likely hearing is the flow of electricity as it passes between the junctions of either the button to body/cap/lock ring or from battery to button contact.

 

[SIX3SIX]

All Negative ground mods (so called mechanical mods) complete the circuit mechanically. The returning DC current flows from the atomizer, through the body and then flows from the body/lock ring/bottom cap (depending on mod design and brand ) to the switch and from there it flows from the switch to the battery. All of these connections are made via "friction" (hence a mechanical mod, no wires). What you are likely hearing is the flow of electricity as it passes between the junctions of either the button to body/cap/lock ring or from battery to button contact.

Thanks so much for the info dave. I guess its nothing to worry about then?.

 

[forcedfuel50]

Assuming you have no shorts in the battery or atomizer, there's nothing to worry about.

 

[ericd07]

Its very strange. My ela started doing it again last night. Only did it a couple times. How old are your batteries?

My batteries are a year old but I have four of them designated for the workhorse and four of them designated for the ela. So chargin two at a time every other day they cant have that many cycles on them. Either way im gonna order some new batts this week to see if thats the problem.

Id still really like to know what is causing this though. It cant be a short. Is it current feeding back through the switch? If so why? Why does it vibrate and not shock? Does the rhodium have resistance? Maybe david will see this and shed some light. If not maybe ill send supert an email.

ETA - I dont have any black arc marks on my switch or housing either.

My batteries are about a year old also. I did try putting magnets in my workhorse yesterday buy the magnets didn't fit well. Maybe there's some magnet shards in there causing problems. I might as well get a new battery while I'm at it since mine are so old already

 

[SIX3SIX]

Assuming you have no shorts in the battery or atomizer, there's nothing to worry about.

Awesome. Thanks again for your help dave I appreciate it greatly. New batteries are on the way just to be on the safe side. I think they are prolly a little tired any way. Thanks for putting out such top notch gear!

 

[SIX3SIX]

My batteries are about a year old also. I did try putting magnets in my workhorse yesterday buy the magnets didn't fit well. Maybe there's some magnet shards in there causing problems. I might as well get a new battery while I'm at it since mine are so old already

You know ive used all 8 of my batteries with a 4Nine where the magnets stick directly to the battery. Wonder if that has an effect on the battery. Never really liked magnets any way. Time for these batts to be recycled.

 

[snork]

In addition to my fantastic margaritas, I get a buzz on my Super-T buttons every once in awhile and have for years. It always seems related to low ohms and fresh batteries. I think it's a cool mystery and so far only that. Very benign.

 

[ericd07]

You know ive used all 8 of my batteries with a 4Nine where the magnets stick directly to the battery. Wonder if that has an effect on the battery. Never really liked magnets any way. Time for these batts to be recycled.

Just checked. Everything is clean in the mod itself. I was at 0.25 ohms. Rebuilt it to 0.4ohms to see if it'll help. Using a brand new lg red battery. Will see if it helps.

In addition to my fantastic margaritas, I get a buzz on my Super-T buttons every once in awhile and have for years. It always seems related to low ohms and fresh batteries. I think it's a cool mystery and so far only that. Very benign.

Haha yeah same here. My precise simplicity the lock ring gets hot for me. No hot button on my workhorse right now though. Just weird vibrating lol

 

[vdefazzio]

I get that "buzzing" at least three or four times a week. It's when I'm pressing the button on a off center axis and when I apply pressure, if the angle is just right the button rotates on its axis. I don't believe its electrical in nature, just metal rubbing and vibrating.

 

[SIX3SIX]

Just a little follow up on my buzzing switch endeavor....it seems to be gone and that makes me very happy! The last day I was using my older batteries it was buzzing and vibrating every other time I pressed the switch. My ela was also getting worse as well. I put both of them down and used the provari until the new batteries came. So its been a few days now with the new batts and everything seems great. No buzzing.

On my workhorse I also changed the stock oring set-up from two thick to one thick and one thin. Still using the brass spacer on the switch post. I have to say I like this a lot better. There is just the tiniest bit of rattle but im ok with that. I like that better than forcing the top cap those last couple turns and it keeps unwanted pressure off the battery.

So im not sure if the new batteries and new setup had anything to do with this or not but i feel much better now and i want to thank everyone for their help. It means a lot!

Thank you to all!!

 

[mrcrunch08]

I'm glad to see this and know I'm not going crazy. The first fire in my 18650 workhorse buzzed but functioned normally so didn't pay it much mind. I don't get it at all with the telescopic workhorse but one out of every 10 or so pushes on the 18650 I get the buzzing and it is definitely not rubbing metal. You can hear it and feel it vibrating. I have never experienced that with any mech before so it is strange but doesn't seem to interfere with anything.

 

[snork]

I'm glad to see this and know I'm not going crazy. The first fire in my 18650 workhorse buzzed but functioned normally so didn't pay it much mind. I don't get it at all with the telescopic workhorse but one out of every 10 or so pushes on the 18650 I get the buzzing and it is definitely not rubbing metal. You can hear it and feel it vibrating. I have never experienced that with any mech before so it is strange but doesn't seem to interfere with anything.

My 18650 WorkHorse is with me every day, it's my beater. Every now and then it'll go rzzzt. Makes me stop and think. I guess it's a bonus.

 

[Riverboat]

My 18650 WorkHorse is with me every day, it's my beater. Every now and then it'll go rzzzt. Makes me stop and think. I guess it's a bonus.

How come I have never got a buzz ? I am missing out on something special, where is my bonus...?