30w Battery Drain on Atlantis

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Blitzz

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Hey all. I'm vaping on a ipv mini and an atlantis tank at 30w (atlantis is a power house). My problem is the batterys I have (4 different sony vtcs) goes all the way down on dc-dc mode and it ticks when it is in pwm and it doesn't feel like it's pumping out 30w and it dies pretty fast (about an hour of chain vaping)

Now my question is I need a device that can vape at 30w+ easily without battery draining in 10 mins. So should I get a single battery 50w device or an overkill 100w dual battery setup to vape on my atlantis. I would prefer a 50w device with a long battery life but if their isn't any I'll buy a 100w device.
 
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drunkenbatman

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Hey mate! I think you'll have to decide this, but we should talk about mAh so you can. How many milliamps (mAh) a battery has, or in this case how much the mod has, is what will change that. You might want a 150w box mod, but mostly because it'll have two batteries in it rather than one, so you can have more mAh (milliamp hours) to burn.

For example, go here:
Battery drain | Steam Engine | free vaping calculators

You have one VTC4, which has a mAh of 2100. Select APV, select 0.5 for resistance, select VW, put in 30W, and select the VTC4 from the presets. Over on the right you'll see your estimated total runtime. Notice how if you switch to a higher mAh the estimated total runtime will go up.

Anyways, if you watch the runtime as you plugin higher-mAh batteries you might look at (samsung 25r, etc.) you'll get the idea that you aren't going to find a single 8,000mAh battery out there to put in your mod, and how many total mAh you need to be happy. A dual-battery mod might do it for you, or it might lessen the swapping enough to where you're happy.
 

juicynoos

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Hey guys,

Big like for the link to that calculator Batman. Same question, different situation and probs, same answer. Difference is I've been using mechs to vape the Atlantis and realize I'm gonna need to get a regulated device sooner or later. I was considering the IPV mini but if Blitzz is right and battery life is a pita..what would be the best APV to buy and which battery's is what I am wondering.

I use vtc4's and 5's for the mech's but with a regulated device I'm on unfamiliar ground. Also, I was keen on getting the sx-mini around March when it will have temp. control as well as 120watt potential with additional 18650 battery add on. What-cha think?
 

sketchness

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I am not sure about safest? But I have the original Sigelei and generally get more than a day on the atlantis. I usually swap out around 35 or 40 % before I leave for work. For the price difference it seems a 100w or 150w is the way to go just for future versatility. I have a couple sets of Samsung 25r's andd a set of MXJO's that I swap between in my sigelei. My son has the new Sigelei 150 and I must say it is pretty nice. eciggity has them and the difference in price is $10. reddit10 discount code still works too! You will simply get more life out of a dual 18650 watt vw mod. Others on here can tell you why lol.

And back to your question Mod safety in a VW device is really about how well you take care if our batteries. Making sure you rotate them in the slots for use and charging. Not leaving them discharged or stressing them ridiculously hard in a mecha nd then switching back to using them in pairs. Of course if the VW device has some sort of internal failure all bets are off. But from what I hear having a battery vent in a box mod isn't quite pipe bomb style as with a mech?
 

amtseung

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Battery safety isn't the biggest concern when it comes to regulated mods. The chip inside usually does all the safety stuff for you, leaving you with a peace of mind (haha horrible pun). PWM is what that chip is for: power management. A quick wikipedia search says it stands for Pulse-width modulation, which in essence smooths any power delivery hiccups and unevenness, leaving you with a smoother power delivery curve.
DC is direct current, as opposed to AC, which is alternating current. All batteries provide direct current, as the source stays constant and as such, there is a constant flow of electrons moving from positive to negative (or the reverse if you're an electrical engineer). AC doesn't so much flow electrons, but vibrates them back and forth to create an electrical potential. PWM matters more in AC circuits than DC to smooth out the back and forth alternation, and sometimes reverses either the back or forth within the alternation to provide a current similar to DC.
I am no electrical engineer or electrician. I'm an auto mechanic. I hope I didn't get any of this wrong, but that's as much as I remember from auto tech class.

Battery safety is the huge concern if you're running a fully unregulated, a.k.a. mechanical mod. With a mechanical mod, there's nothing to regulate the current and keep you safe.
 

sketchness

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So it comes down to an ipv3 or a sigelei.
Battery safety is something I need to do more research on. Also how pwm and dc works. I love my atlantis and 30w is almost so close to the optimal for me but I need a little more wattage.

having handled both I like the Sigelei better. I personally don't like the buttons on the IPV. But both devices get pretty great reviews you will be happy. And you will find that 30 watts is pretty great in a device with dual 18650's. It is just different than say the dna30 I have which takes longer to heat up and doesn't produce nearly as dense a vapor as when it is attached to my Sigelei at 30.
 

Blitzz

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having handled both I like the Sigelei better. I personally don't like the buttons on the IPV. But both devices get pretty great reviews you will be happy. And you will find that 30 watts is pretty great in a device with dual 18650's. It is just different than say the dna30 I have which takes longer to heat up and doesn't produce nearly as dense a vapor as when it is attached to my Sigelei at 30.

What do you mean my heating up? Does the vape start cold then takes a couple of seconds to get hot or your dna30 takes a couple of minutes to start producing warm vapes? (If "m making sense lol)
Because I want to be able to power up and start getting nice warm vapes.
 

drunkenbatman

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What do you mean my heating up? Does the vape start cold then takes a couple of seconds to get hot or your dna30 takes a couple of minutes to start producing warm vapes? (If "m making sense lol)
Because I want to be able to power up and start getting nice warm vapes.

I'm not sure what he means either, but I'm sure with a rewording it'll make sense. ;)

I'll second the Sigelei over the IPV3 right now. Any model can have some bad apples from manufacturing runs, but if you look around the forum and elsewhere while you'll see someone here and there having an issue with their Sig, far too many people are having issues with the IPV3s 510 connection literally coming out of the mod. It looks like they're just using a cheap glue to keep it in -- and their warranty system doesn't appear to be the best.
 

sketchness

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What do you mean my heating up? Does the vape start cold then takes a couple of seconds to get hot or your dna30 takes a couple of minutes to start producing warm vapes? (If "m making sense lol)
Because I want to be able to power up and start getting nice warm vapes.

at 30 watts on the sigelei It heats up and produces vapor instantly. With the dna30 it takes several seconds to ramp up and start producing vapor on the same build. You can go out and look at the circuitry limitations of the DNA30. Below I think it is .6 ohms where it just dumps what is in the battery. So you start to get mech style performance where the vape degrades as the battery is depleted. The Sigelei does something similar when the batteries get below 30% as there just isn't enough charge left in the batteries to hit the desired wattage. The Sigelei will give you the best it can for a couple of seconds and then flash the check battery warning.
 

Blitzz

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at 30 watts on the sigelei It heats up and produces vapor instantly. With the dna30 it takes several seconds to ramp up and start producing vapor on the same build. You can go out and look at the circuitry limitations of the DNA30. Below I think it is .6 ohms where it just dumps what is in the battery. So you start to get mech style performance where the vape degrades as the battery is depleted. The Sigelei does something similar when the batteries get below 30% as there just isn't enough charge left in the batteries to hit the desired wattage. The Sigelei will give you the best it can for a couple of seconds and then flash the check battery warning.

So that's why the vape on the ipv mini is similar to my k100 mech. It's just going into mech mode when I'm vaping at max wattage?

Just ordered a sigelei 100w and excited to use it. Can you mixed battery types (different brands, mah, etc) with dual battery mods?
 
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drunkenbatman

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Just ordered a sigelei 100w and excited to use it. Can you mixed battery types (different brands, mah, etc) with dual battery mods?

Short answer: No.

Long answer: Technically maybe sometimes if they're the same mAh, your karma is outstanding, and you've had bad luck your whole life and now it's nothing but good. You can get into weird things if you don't "marry" a set of batteries together for use in a mod where one ends up charging the other and stuffins.

Longest Answer: Go here, and read through the battery posts by baditude. :)
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...op-reference-shop-new-experienced-vapers.html
 
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dice57

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I've been extremely happy with me Sigelei 100, Cloupor T8 & T6. though have been know to break tipple digits occasionally, my adv is dialed in at 40-70 watts, with a mean average of 53.2 watts, or something like that :D

heck, far as batts go, if one is using 20, 25, 30 amp continues batts or more, battery safety is taken care of by the cpu, long as one observes proper maintenance and care of batts, tis nary a concern.. Generally speaking, most these box mods put out 15-20 amps max. So if using dual 20's on a 15 amp mod, and dual 30's on a 20 amp mod, one is heavy into a high amp buffer safety factor, from a mech kind of point of view. :D though is extremely important to have sets of married matched batts to power them. Un matched sets will put undo stress on the weaker batt.

with the power at hand, one needs to be more focused on wicking potential and air flow, along with optimum mod purrformance target zone.



Vape long and Prosper.!!!
 
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