Advice on mech mods?

[jaketheduck]

I'm looking into mods for trying out a dripping rba, and upgrading my ego battery, and i am leaning more towards mech mods. They seem like they would be more simple, and a hell of a lot cheaper. I was looking at this THE ULTIMATE #CLOUDCHASING K101 Mechanical Mod Package + UPGRADE OPTIONS | VAPEHAPPYVAPEHAPPY to start me off. It already comes with everything i need, and i am getting the extra battery and charger for $20, but i do like using tanks. So i would like to switch out beteeen the dripping rba and something like an iclear or a protank. My main questions are:

Do you guys have any main advice for this mod (or mechs in general)?

Does the mod work well with tanks?

Does the battery last?

Does the battery drop in power as you vape? Is it noticable?

Should I forget about this, and just go to an electronic mod?

Im looking for the amount as vapor possible, i dont need throat hit, i would sacrifice flavor for it even. I just want something to mess around with at the house haha. Thanks in advance!

 

[Judge Dredd]

Mechs may look simpler to use and in some respects they are but more care is required to use them. There is no regulation which means no low voltage protection, no reverse polarity protection, no short protection, etc. If you're going to be using any unregulated device, definitely splurge and buy a decent multimeter so you can read the resistance of your RBA/RDA/RTA BEFORE attaching it to the device. You will also be able to identify a short before potentially causing damage to the battery. Definitely do ample research before taking the dive into mechs. Perhaps buy a fuse as well so you at least have SOME protection when using your mech.

It will work fine with a tank but remember you'll be limited to the voltage your battery puts out. There's no adjusting on a mech unless you have a tank with an airflow adjustment and even that isn't the same.

Battery may last marginally longer or marginally shorter than a regulated device but I doubt you'll notice much of a difference. It's really dependent on your current draw on the battery and your vaping habits.

With mechs, there is no boost circuit to maintain your requested voltage, so yes, there will be voltage drop and you will notice it. You will get used to it and eventually start to notice when it's time to charge the battery.

Maybe it would be a good idea to get a cheap regulated electronic mod and learn to build good wick/coil setups before moving onto mechs. They won't be going anywhere when you're ready.

 

[mooreted]

I've never seen that mod before. If you want a workhorse that never seems to fail try the Silver Bullet:

| Silver Bullet | Best electronic cigarettes| Cigarettes Electronic| Cigarette Electronic Cigarette| Best Electronic Cigarettes | Electronic Cigarettes - AltSmoke

You can put a tank on just about anything.

Most rechargeable batteries like 18350 and 18650 come off the charger at 4.2v and drop to about 3.4v at the end of the charge. A good battery will hold around 3.7v for a long time before it drops to 3.4v and needs to be charged.

If you want bigger clouds of vapor use juice with a higher VG content and a lower ohm tank, atty, carto, etc.

 

[jaketheduck]

Thanks for your help, i may just look into a vv/vw mod and spend the extra cash

 

[tj99959]

Don't rush into the cloud chasing. Yes it can be fun to play with, but you need to know all about battery safety, and different types of batteries before you go there. Just because that kit would work (yes I looked) doesn't mean it would be safe in the hands of someone new to using a mechanical mod. It takes a while to learn how to build coils & wicks that perform the way you want, and you need to understand how ohms law effects different kinds of builds. You also need to learn about air flow management. There really are reasons why we drill the air holes to different diameters for different types of builds.
So the bottom line is go slow, and learn. It's a fun ride, but it needs to be done safely.

Mechanical mods were around long before there were RBA's or sub ohm vaping, and they can work well with almost anything you would care to use on them. Look at a mechanical mod as being variable resistance (you choose the resistance to use) instead of VV or VW like a regulated mod. The end result is pretty much the same.

add:
I also like the suggestion of looking into a Silver Bullet as an alternative. With it's functional hot spring it offers a level of safety not found in most true mechanical mods. This makes it ideal for learning about all this stuff.
The SB was my first true "mod". Mine is now over 2.5 years old, and still looks & functions like new. Matter of fact, I've been using it this morning.

 

[Dakota Jim]

My personal preference is VV/VW regulated (by me, not the government) mods for regular all around vaping

Here is good place to look Ask The Veterans for specific answers

Hopefully Baditude will see this post soon - he normally has all pertinent links he can put in post for you

 

[jwsalome]

if you go dripper, i love my K100. its sleek and looks good with just about any tank or atomizer on it. my preferred build is the K100 with a Nimbus dual micro coils.

 

[glycerol]

no problem to use any clearo on a k100 / k101, just google "k100 protank" - it's a beauty and in 18350 mode the device is not longer than the tank itself. good luck and change your batteries at the very second when you start feeling vape degrades.

 

[Warpigs]

I have been using the Silver Bullet for about a year now. It is a wonderful and easy mod to work with. I have had 0 problems with it, it still works the same way I got it when it was shipped. I have used thick and thin liquids and it has no problem vaping them. I use the AW Protected 18650 3400 Mah batteries. I will be buying another for a different look (I have Black with silver button, I want to try the chrome one). I'm so happy with it I would never try anything else.

 

[timmizeus]

Quick question: If I use a 'kick' with a mech mode, paired with an 18500/18350 battery, I know I can control the wattage (power) by manually adjusting the 'kick'.

But does the 'kick' also provide a safety net in terms of voltage protection, reverse polarity protection, short circuit protection, etc.?

Thanks.

#myfivecents

 

[Warpigs]

Quick question: If I use a 'kick' with a mech mode, paired with an 18500/18350 battery, I know I can control the wattage (power) by manually adjusting the 'kick'.

But does the 'kick' also provide a safety net in terms of voltage protection, reverse polarity protection, short circuit protection, etc.?

Thanks.

#myfivecents

Most suppliers of mods wont guarentee your mod if you are using "kicks" or stacking batteries. I know the Silver Bullet will not guarentee damage caused by these actions. I have not tried either of these ways to make my SB hit harder so I cannot comment on that. I'm sorry

 

[Wicked & Coiled]

Quick question: If I use a 'kick' with a mech mode, paired with an 18500/18350 battery, I know I can control the wattage (power) by manually adjusting the 'kick'.

But does the 'kick' also provide a safety net in terms of voltage protection, reverse polarity protection, short circuit protection, etc.?

Thanks.

#myfivecents

Yes it does. But spend the extra $20, and buy the real Evolv Vapor "Kick 2". The clones are pulse-width modulated, and don't cut the mustard.

 

[Wicked & Coiled]

Most suppliers of mods wont guarentee your mod if you are using "kicks" or stacking batteries. I know the Silver Bullet will not guarentee damage caused by these actions. I have not tried either of these ways to make my SB hit harder so I cannot comment on that. I'm sorry

Please don't be stupid and stack batteries. Just dumb. The Kick/Kick2 won't harm your device in any way. They merely regulate your vape for a selected wattage. They're not designed to "hit harder", but rather hit "more consistently", and for longer relative periods.

 

[Warpigs]

I have watched many of you-tube vidoes of people stacking and kicking thier mods. I knew from the start (from a friend) that stacking batteries is not good. The kick part I'm not well versed on as I've never tried it, yet

 

[KenD]

A kick will indeed give you safety features such as short circuit and low voltage protection. Not reverse polarity protection though. I haven't tried this, but from what I've read a reversed battery will fry the kick. Also note that the kick will not fire coils below a certain resistance (which is different for different kicks, check the specifications before you buy).

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk

 

[Completely Average]

I use a Nemesis with a Kick2 as my standard ecig. I carry a Halo Triton to use while driving, but if I'm any place where I can just sit I use my Nemmy with Kick. My wife also uses a 69 mod with a Kick and loves the convenience.


The Kick will NOT harm your mod in any way. It will allow you to set a specific wattage level and vape at that level for as long as the battery charge lasts. It acts as a safety device preventing the mod from firing if the ohms are below 1.0, if the amps are above 5, or if the voltage drops below 3.2v. When using a Kick your mech mod will behave just like any other VW mod, and if you want you can quickly and easily remove it for dripping, subohm coil builds, or just to see what unregulated is like.

It's the best of both worlds. You've got all of the functionality of a VW mod and a mech mod in a single device if you have a Kick.

 

[Completely Average]

Thought I should add this.

There are 3 basic types of Kick modules available.

Evolv Kick/Kick clones
5-10 watt adjustable
1.0 ohm coil limit
5A limit
$15-$25

Smoktech Kick clone
5-12 watt adjustable
1.0 ohm coil limit
6A limit
$15-$20

Evolv Kick2
5-15 watt adjustable
.5 ohm coil limit
6A limit
$45

As of now there are no clones of the Kick2, you must buy them from Evolv or someone who sells Evolv modules.