6 amps in not enough for me. My sweet spot is 10-14 amps on my Pinoy set up. Watts don't concern me. It's the amps that are important in sub ohm vaping.
Any interest in the Kick 2?
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I am so confused right now, anyone have a link to where I can read up on this? In terms of wire choice to get the right wattage etc
. I only have a protank and a vamo and would like to vape at 15w been rebuilding it with 32awg and can only do about 8w without burning my wick. I don't want to derail the conversation but can someone pm me some details? I'm waiting for my igo-l to come in to explore more but would like more understanding before I invest on a mech mod.
I guess I'm looking for a mech mod for dummies or 101. As well as coil building for wattages etc
I guess I'm looking for a mech mod for dummies or 101. As well as coil building for wattages etc
8 - 10 watts is the sweet spot for any clearomizer... It's when you go to RBAs that you see advantages in higher watt / amps being used...
And it has alot to do with using lower resistance wire than 32awg... When you get your IGO-L you will want to get 30awg at the very least, and get a mech to use it to it's full potential..
A vamo will work, but it is better with a mech.. get a k100 they are inexpensive and you can find them everywhere, best bang for the buck in a mech.
I am using 30 awg mico coils with my IGO-L.. You will also probably want to drill out the air hole as well... start at 1.2 or 1.4 mm, but I have mine at 1.6mm now.. I went straight there (1/16" drill bit) and thought it was way to airy at first, but now I am building the coils that work best with it and I love it.
And it has alot to do with using lower resistance wire than 32awg... When you get your IGO-L you will want to get 30awg at the very least, and get a mech to use it to it's full potential..
A vamo will work, but it is better with a mech.. get a k100 they are inexpensive and you can find them everywhere, best bang for the buck in a mech.
I am using 30 awg mico coils with my IGO-L.. You will also probably want to drill out the air hole as well... start at 1.2 or 1.4 mm, but I have mine at 1.6mm now.. I went straight there (1/16" drill bit) and thought it was way to airy at first, but now I am building the coils that work best with it and I love it.
I'm not going to get into the sub ohm/watts vs amps/etc, but I will give my experience.
I just got a Kick2 yesterday and haven't tried it with a low ohm rba yet. However I have done significant testing with the DNA20 and it flat out blows a mech out of the water IMHO. The ~0.7 ohm setups I had for mech mods where significantly improved when used with the DNA20 @ 20 watts, to much for my liking and I ended up running them at a lower wattage setting on the DNA20.
15 watts may not be enough for everyone and the Kick2 may end up vaping different than the DNA20 at sub ohm, but so far at carto tank ohm and wattage settings the K2 vapes just like the DNA20. Which IMHO is the best vape I have found and noticeably better than the K1.
I guess my point is don't knock it until you try it, it might surprise you.
I just got a Kick2 yesterday and haven't tried it with a low ohm rba yet. However I have done significant testing with the DNA20 and it flat out blows a mech out of the water IMHO. The ~0.7 ohm setups I had for mech mods where significantly improved when used with the DNA20 @ 20 watts, to much for my liking and I ended up running them at a lower wattage setting on the DNA20.
15 watts may not be enough for everyone and the Kick2 may end up vaping different than the DNA20 at sub ohm, but so far at carto tank ohm and wattage settings the K2 vapes just like the DNA20. Which IMHO is the best vape I have found and noticeably better than the K1.
I guess my point is don't knock it until you try it, it might surprise you.
Could you post back here when you try the Kick with .7 ohm coil.
I have been vaping at around .8 ohms and would like some boost when the battery gets below 3.8 volts unloaded to use more of the available battery charge.
Could you post back here when you try the Kick with .7 ohm coil.
I have been vaping at around .8 ohms and would like some boost when the battery gets below 3.8 volts unloaded to use more of the available battery charge.
Will do.
The one thing that I worry about with the K2 and mech is resistance stacking. This is an issue inherent to all mech mods, whereas with the DNA you have very low resistant wiring running straight to the 510/other connector.....????....testing well tell.
Ok did some testing.
The test setup was a 0.8 ohm coil in an RSST.
Voltage was tested at the coil connection post under load.
Mod for the K2 and unregulated was a tried and true bolt with a fresh charged AW 2000mah 18650 for each test.
DNA test were with my 26650 DNA mod.
DNA set at 20 watts - 3.85v
DNA set at 15 watts - 3.28v
Kick2 set at 15 watts - 3.22v
Straight Battery - 3.35v
While the bolt isn't the best performing unregulated mod out there I have ran similar tests with better mech mods and if memory serves the best I got was 3.75v with fresh battery.
All in all the kick2 kind of surprised me. With a better conductive mech mod it will likely match the DNA or come very close.
So my suggestion if your on the fence about the Kick2 is measure your current setup at the coil connection posts under load and if your close or below then IMHO the K2 will offer you a very nice and consistent vape for the entire battery.
The test setup was a 0.8 ohm coil in an RSST.
Voltage was tested at the coil connection post under load.
Mod for the K2 and unregulated was a tried and true bolt with a fresh charged AW 2000mah 18650 for each test.
DNA test were with my 26650 DNA mod.
DNA set at 20 watts - 3.85v
DNA set at 15 watts - 3.28v
Kick2 set at 15 watts - 3.22v
Straight Battery - 3.35v
While the bolt isn't the best performing unregulated mod out there I have ran similar tests with better mech mods and if memory serves the best I got was 3.75v with fresh battery.
All in all the kick2 kind of surprised me. With a better conductive mech mod it will likely match the DNA or come very close.
So my suggestion if your on the fence about the Kick2 is measure your current setup at the coil connection posts under load and if your close or below then IMHO the K2 will offer you a very nice and consistent vape for the entire battery.
maybe i wasn't clear... i'll edit your post so you can understand it better...
this next part of your post is laughably incorrect:
1.5Ω atty @ Kicked to 3.8v, = 10w
2.0Ω atty @ Kicked to 4.5v, = 10w
2.5Ω atty @ Kicked to 5.0v, = 10w
Sorry but, again... not enjoyable... and actually... comically bad in my case:
.8Ω atty @ Kicked to 2.8v, = 10w
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Sorry Mr ClippinWings but I think your over looking overall resistance and voltage under load. Unregulated you will never be vaping at the unloaded battery voltage, nor is the coil ohm's the only resistance. So you can't calc wattage or amperage from just the coil ohm and unloaded battery voltage.
I don't think I will change your feelings on the subject, just trying to help clarify for others.
I don't think I will change your feelings on the subject, just trying to help clarify for others.
yeah... i know... but as I'm sure you know, it's just going to get more confusing if i try and factor in voltage drop.
Also, considering my mod has one of the lowest voltage drops measure, out of the box... It's not worth bothering.
Well, Kick2 not for me.
I get 3.65V at .8 ohm coil with fresh AW 18350.
By the time I would get down to 3.22Vat coil I would be sucking air.
BTW, 3.75V with .8 ohm coil is outstanding considering a good fresh battery is only giving out 3.8V due to internal resistance.
We can go round and round on this, but the fact is this... The Kick and any DNA device is a regulated wattage device... This is from the Evolv website and will explain it.
"The Kick performs essentially the exact same Power Regulating function as the Darwin. Kick is a smaller version of the microprocessor electronics and programming as used in the Darwin. Power Regulation is exactly what the name implies – regulates the overall power (watts) output. Watts are the overall power output in any vaping combination of volts, amps and resistance (atty/carto ohms). The Kick detects the resistance of any atty/carto attached and automatically, and continuously, adjusts the volts and amps to deliver the user set watts level. Power Regulation provides the same power output (watts) even if the user changes resistance (different atty/carto). Boosted Power Regulation automatically compensates for any fluctuating variables, like battery drain curve and atty/carto resistance fluctuation (usually lowers over the life of an atty/carto) and thereby provides consistent overall power output (watts)."
So again I stand by my post in that if you set it your preferred wattage, it remain that from start to finish of your battery life. Again, I understand that you prefer to vape @ 20+ watts and that is all good, but for you to knock someone else for how they vape is something else. If you want to go all high and mighty about how you can only get a good vape from a sub-ohm vape, then maybe you should check this out...Rebuildable Atomizer Systems... The same as you don't care for the way some of us vape, I have shelved the rebuildables I have because they are just not consistent, (and therefore not enjoyable), in any way shape or form for my liking and I find it more of a hassle to have to change a battery out @ 3.9v every hour of the day. I only have to change my battery out once a day!! But to each, his own...
Again, the Kick and any DNA device is for regulated wattage....not voltage... Though this too is arguable as it does regulate the voltage and amps to give you a consistent wattage. Consistency is the key objective in my vaping pleasure and through the help from Evolv I have found it for over a year now and I am glad they have upped the ante in designing something newer to help out some other people that find 10w is just not enough for them. Maybe one day they will design something that will be in the range you like to vape!!
Just for kicks retest the voltage when you normally change the battery. I haven't actually done this as typically use a DNA20 mod for my rba's.
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