Battery Blinking!?

[Clynn0928]

on My Subox mini, I have an RDA with .4 build on it, will read up to 1.0 sometimes, then even with .5 coils from Kangertech, now I got MXJO batteries and this will do this, when I go to take a hit it will just flash a blank battery and then work the next time. I am at a loss because they are fully charged, it more so happens when I have the dripper on as opposed to the tank.

Does anyone have any idea why this is?
Thank You

 

[dcfluegel]

sounds like it may be shorting out - check your build to make sure screws are tight and the legs from teh coil are not touching the outer barrel of the rda

may also be an issue with the center pin in the mod - subox has a fixed center pin that sometimes gets pushed down, especially if using something other than the subtank it came with...

may want to take battery out and check center pin - you can gently pry it up with a very small flathead screwdriver, working your way round it, just prising it up a little bit each time...

have not seen the blinky battery thing on mine yet, save for when it was actually time to change battery (and charger confirmed that, lol)

 

[Bunnykiller]

try another battery... generally when that happens, the battery is in a condition of low amperage supply, when you hit the button it pulls the battery down too low ( below the required amp supply) that the mod is looking for and then it does its thing ( low amp supply) and flashes low battery etc...

 

[Clynn0928]

Thank you both. I have tried to pry it, I did notice it come up a bit but I'm afraid of doing it to much lol. I still keep getting the blinking, I notice it only with the rda now, so when I put it back on I tried to only screw it in slightly , I have the mxjo batteries to I ordered in a pinch because of the Amazon prime and then one Aspire battery I have had. For the most part it seems to do it more with mxjo batteries than it does with the aspire one, does that make sense lol. I'm gonna have to check them, I thought the amps were higher on those than the aspire but I could be wrong, should I just send these back to Amazon and order better ones.

Thanks

 

[DavidOck]

What power setting? The device can only output within a certain range. With your low ohm coil, a high power setting may exceed that and some devices will then "report" low battery.

And your wandering value RDA sounds like a poor connection somewhere. If shorted, it would go lower, not higher.

 

[IMFire3605]

Thank you both. I have tried to pry it, I did notice it come up a bit but I'm afraid of doing it to much lol. I still keep getting the blinking, I notice it only with the rda now, so when I put it back on I tried to only screw it in slightly , I have the mxjo batteries to I ordered in a pinch because of the Amazon prime and then one Aspire battery I have had. For the most part it seems to do it more with mxjo batteries than it does with the aspire one, does that make sense lol. I'm gonna have to check them, I thought the amps were higher on those than the aspire but I could be wrong, should I just send these back to Amazon and order better ones.

Thanks

MXJO
IMRen
Efest

Currently these 3 battery suppliers are the notorious trio in my book, they buy B, C, and D rate cast off cells from Sony, Panasonic, Samsung, Sanyo, and LG, so you never really know what cell is underneath the re-wrap then they re-spec the battery higher than what it really is, MXJO's, you do not know if you are getting an LG HE4 20amp or a Panasonic 6amp underneath that wrapper, so we most times guess and be fair they are using the LG 20amp, but still don't trust them. 2nd, unless you are buying batteries that Amazon themself store in a warehouse, "DON'T BUY BATTERIES OFF AMAZON, EBAY, OR OTHER SUCH VENDOR THAT LETS NONAME NON-REPUTABLE" vendors sell off clones that can not even be classified as sub-par, but well below safe. 3rd, buy name brand batteries from manufacturers that actually make the cells everyone else buys and re-wraps, LG, Samsung, Sony, etc listed previously. 4th buy batteries from reputable, authorized re-sellers/retailers...

There are no batteries presently that have a Continuous Discharge Rate of over 30amps, any battery that say 35 or 40amps are actually 20amp batteries with a 35 or 40amp pulse rating, and you should never bank on a pulse rating, always bank on the CDR

15 to 20amp batteries
LG HG2
Samsung 30Q

20amp batteries
Samsung 25R
LG HE2/HE4
Sony VTC5

30amp or can sustain 30amps
Sony VTC4 (not a true 30amp but can sustain 30amps)
Sony VTC3 (true 30amp)
LG HB6 (true 30amp)

US Reputable Authorized Resellers
Liion Wholesale
Illumination Supply
IMRBatteries
RTDVapor
Orbtronics

Take some time to check out the blogs of @Baditude and @Mooch, they both have great battery information to read over, Mooch has great, independent test results he's conducted

Stay safe out there.

 

[aussiei]

Loose connections in the atty!!

 

[Clynn0928]

What power setting? The device can only output within a certain range. With your low ohm coil, a high power setting may exceed that and some devices will then "report" low battery.

And your wandering value RDA sounds like a poor connection somewhere. If shorted, it would go lower, not higher.

SO my reply may sound stupid, as I am still trying to get the hang of all this stuff lol but I keep it at about 42-43 watts and with that on my subox its at 4.1 volts...if that helps at all

 

[Clynn0928]

MXJO
IMRen
Efest

Currently these 3 battery suppliers are the notorious trio in my book, they buy B, C, and D rate cast off cells from Sony, Panasonic, Samsung, Sanyo, and LG, so you never really know what cell is underneath the re-wrap then they re-spec the battery higher than what it really is, MXJO's, you do not know if you are getting an LG HE4 20amp or a Panasonic 6amp underneath that wrapper, so we most times guess and be fair they are using the LG 20amp, but still don't trust them. 2nd, unless you are buying batteries that Amazon themself store in a warehouse, "DON'T BUY BATTERIES OFF AMAZON, EBAY, OR OTHER SUCH VENDOR THAT LETS NONAME NON-REPUTABLE" vendors sell off clones that can not even be classified as sub-par, but well below safe. 3rd, buy name brand batteries from manufacturers that actually make the cells everyone else buys and re-wraps, LG, Samsung, Sony, etc listed previously. 4th buy batteries from reputable, authorized re-sellers/retailers...

There are no batteries presently that have a Continuous Discharge Rate of over 30amps, any battery that say 35 or 40amps are actually 20amp batteries with a 35 or 40amp pulse rating, and you should never bank on a pulse rating, always bank on the CDR

15 to 20amp batteries
LG HG2
Samsung 30Q

20amp batteries
Samsung 25R
LG HE2/HE4
Sony VTC5

30amp or can sustain 30amps
Sony VTC4 (not a true 30amp but can sustain 30amps)
Sony VTC3 (true 30amp)
LG HB6 (true 30amp)

US Reputable Authorized Resellers
Liion Wholesale
Illumination Supply
IMRBatteries
RTDVapor
Orbtronics

Take some time to check out the blogs of @Baditude and @Mooch, they both have great battery information to read over, Mooch has great, independent test results he's conducted

Stay safe out there.

Thank You, I was told by a friend to get the green or blue Samsung ones I just haven't yet, wanted to find a good deal for two if possible, the local shops are so over priced with certain things it kills me, I will read up on the different amps to..I feel like the moment I comprehend something, there is something else messing me up that I can't understand.

 

[IMFire3605]

Thank You, I was told by a friend to get the green or blue Samsung ones I just haven't yet, wanted to find a good deal for two if possible, the local shops are so over priced with certain things it kills me, I will read up on the different amps to..I feel like the moment I comprehend something, there is something else messing me up that I can't understand.

No worries, only stupid question is the one not asked, especially when it comes to batteries. From your post above your last, yes, the mod is warning you of a safety issue and protecting itself at that power setting, the battery when queried for what it can provide in amps and volts at that setting doesn't have the Oomph to push the atomizer at that setting. A true 20amp cell that isn't weak would not blink an eye and give the power needed, sub-par battery that is weak or damaged in some fashion, the mod detects the power sag and telling you, nope this battery isn't up to snuff, change atomizer with higher ohm rating, or give me a better battery.

 

[Clynn0928]

No worries, only stupid question is the one not asked, especially when it comes to batteries. From your post above your last, yes, the mod is warning you of a safety issue and protecting itself at that power setting, the battery when queried for what it can provide in amps and volts at that setting doesn't have the Oomph to push the atomizer at that setting. A true 20amp cell that isn't weak would not blink an eye and give the power needed, sub-par battery that is weak or damaged in some fashion, the mod detects the power sag and telling you, nope this battery isn't up to snuff, change atomizer with higher ohm rating, or give me a better battery.

Thank You! Yes I found today it shut me out when it said High Temp, which is odd I had it at like 43 watts which is what I normally use for the dripper, so I kept lowering it and still said that, so ya I let it sit for a bit then it was fine, but it made me feel like I was pushing my little subox to the max since it only goes to 50 watts, I feel like I need a higher mod now , is that normal, I don't know what a normal setting is for an rda lol or what many seem to like lol

 

[IMFire3605]

The Kbox mini (Sub-Box mod) should have no problem operating at the max it is designed for. If it is shutting down from a temp warning, then that is another sign the battery you are using is way sub-par, when a battery is stressed on output or recharge it will heat up, and this heat transfers to the mod, control chip and other things, the control chip is sensing this heat in the battery and its circuits, so not pushing, again a safety feature. Overstressed battery is bad, very very bad, ICR Li-Ion batteries once they get above about 80C or so will go into thermal runaway, and go boom, literally, IMR will boil and outgas and if not cooled down might cause a fire, INR can outgas slowly at first, then shoot gases and possibly cause a fire if not contained quickly, thus why a lot of us stress battery safety. But back to a mod running at its maximum or near maximum all the time, like a race car, keep it redlined all the time, you could wear it out very, very fast.

Another higher output mod might be good, Sigelei 75, 100, 150watt (last 2 are dual battery), iStick100w, IPV D2, IPV4/IPV4S, IPV3/IPV3Li are also nice mods for higher output from 75watt up to 200watt range, though all of the dual battery mods require pairing and marrying brand new batteries together into married pairs you use together and charge together, never breaking the pairing (ie battery 1A with battery 1B until death do they part, and need to be same make and model battery to be equal at all times, same amps, same mah (like 2 Samsung 25R batteries), same amount of charge and discharge cycles).

But as it stands, I am certain your troubles are all from sub-par batteries, Illumination Supply you can get a pair of Samsung 25R (older blue or newer green) for about $12-15USD per pair so worthwhile to check out those listed suppliers above, you know that you are getting A Spec Authentic batteries at a decent price.

 

[Two_Bears]

on My Subox mini, I have an RDA with .4 build on it, will read up to 1.0 sometimes, then even with .5 coils from Kangertech, now I got MXJO batteries and this will do this, when I go to take a hit it will just flash a blank battery and then work the next time. I am at a loss because they are fully charged, it more so happens when I have the dripper on as opposed to the tank.

Does anyone have any idea why this is?
Thank You

Sounds like the ohms level of the coil is too low for the battery or the battery is faulty.

 

[Clynn0928]

The Kbox mini (Sub-Box mod) should have no problem operating at the max it is designed for. If it is shutting down from a temp warning, then that is another sign the battery you are using is way sub-par, when a battery is stressed on output or recharge it will heat up, and this heat transfers to the mod, control chip and other things, the control chip is sensing this heat in the battery and its circuits, so not pushing, again a safety feature. Overstressed battery is bad, very very bad, ICR Li-Ion batteries once they get above about 80C or so will go into thermal runaway, and go boom, literally, IMR will boil and outgas and if not cooled down might cause a fire, INR can outgas slowly at first, then shoot gases and possibly cause a fire if not contained quickly, thus why a lot of us stress battery safety. But back to a mod running at its maximum or near maximum all the time, like a race car, keep it redlined all the time, you could wear it out very, very fast.

Another higher output mod might be good, Sigelei 75, 100, 150watt (last 2 are dual battery), iStick100w, IPV D2, IPV4/IPV4S, IPV3/IPV3Li are also nice mods for higher output from 75watt up to 200watt range, though all of the dual battery mods require pairing and marrying brand new batteries together into married pairs you use together and charge together, never breaking the pairing (ie battery 1A with battery 1B until death do they part, and need to be same make and model battery to be equal at all times, same amps, same mah (like 2 Samsung 25R batteries), same amount of charge and discharge cycles).

But as it stands, I am certain your troubles are all from sub-par batteries, Illumination Supply you can get a pair of Samsung 25R (older blue or newer green) for about $12-15USD per pair so worthwhile to check out those listed suppliers above, you know that you are getting A Spec Authentic batteries at a decent price.

Thank you, I am thinking and now with much help from this it is the batteries, they do fine with my tank but can't hold up with the dripper. I have an order on batteries I have to finish to come in, I found a good deal with someone local selling an ipv3 & 4 so wth I'm gonna get em. But yes this was fine when I first started now it takes forever to heat up, by the time it does and I get a hit it gets over heated, I'm also using 24 gauge kanthan which, wasn't an issue at first but I'm thinking I should try 26 maybe, so it'll heat faster, if that's correct from what I been reading

 

[Clynn0928]

Sounds like the ohms level of the coil is too low for the battery or the battery is faulty.

Ya the ohms I have is .4 I really think it's both maybe lol the battery is fine with my tank, but with the dripper it sucks , but I have one other battery not a set that I got when I got the box, which does better than the set I have, so I may just send these back but regardless I'm ordering the other ones today. I'll know to mark them to, I have a .... ton of eneloops for my cameras I have all marked because I just personally like to keep them together, old and new and so on...I can't be happy with my box and just a tank can I lol