I've been told that your mod should not, in any reason, get hot. I've notice my firing button getting hot. I'm running a Poseidon clone dual coil with my coils at 1.1 ohms and 26g Kanthal wire. A Tesla M2 mod with a MXJO IMR 18650 battery with 2500 mAh that says it's rated at 35 amps. I've also noticed a burnt taste in the vape. Am I doing something wrong?
Battery Help
- Thread starter KaJayH
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If the fire button is getting hot it would seem to indicate a higher than normal resistance in the fire button. That is a problem in lower quality switches and can be made worse by foreign materials, water, e-liquids, getting into the contacts.
If you're experiencing a burned taste it would seem to indicate the coil is running too hot or the wick is not supplying enough liquid to keep the wick cool enough not to burn the liquid that is delivered. Maybe try a higher ohm coil or try a different wick material, like rayon or cotton rather than silica.
In terms of batteries, I tend to stick with Panasonic, LG or AW and stay away from the other brands. Check the reviews and any independent tests done on the batteries that you do have.
If you're experiencing a burned taste it would seem to indicate the coil is running too hot or the wick is not supplying enough liquid to keep the wick cool enough not to burn the liquid that is delivered. Maybe try a higher ohm coil or try a different wick material, like rayon or cotton rather than silica.
In terms of batteries, I tend to stick with Panasonic, LG or AW and stay away from the other brands. Check the reviews and any independent tests done on the batteries that you do have.
Welcome to the Forums KaJayH!! Do you here any rattling if you shake it? I also notice in my clone that the screws that hold in the coils come loose for some reason or another. Chain vaping a lot like you would if you had a tank would cause it to heat up and go through juice a lot (if you do) quicker meaning you would have to drip more juice on often to keep the cotton saturated.
maybe one of the coils is shorting out on the topcap when you put on the topcap.
on a regulated mod your mod would tell you.
On a mech you can check with a multimeter by taking out the battery, sticking one probe down the tube to contact the centerpin, and touching the other probe on the cylinder.
on a regulated mod your mod would tell you.
On a mech you can check with a multimeter by taking out the battery, sticking one probe down the tube to contact the centerpin, and touching the other probe on the cylinder.
I would do what's called a "tail cap measurement", if possible. Use the 10 or 20A setting on your multimeter and take the tail cap off your mod. Put one probe on the negative terminal of the battery and press the other against the threads (or the body, or the negative post of your atomizer). Press the button and read the amount of current. This might take three hands.
If it is under 4A then the battery should not be getting more than the slightest bit warm, and if the switch is getting warm then there is definitely a problem with it.
Heat being conducted from the atomizer down into the switch is another matter. If that's the cause then as long as it's not too much heat (battery under 40 degrees C, switch maybe 50 C) it shouldn't be a problem.
There are some instructions on www . lygte - info . dk / info / Measurement%20UK . html
Flashlights are used, but the same technique should work for mods.
If it is under 4A then the battery should not be getting more than the slightest bit warm, and if the switch is getting warm then there is definitely a problem with it.
Heat being conducted from the atomizer down into the switch is another matter. If that's the cause then as long as it's not too much heat (battery under 40 degrees C, switch maybe 50 C) it shouldn't be a problem.
There are some instructions on www . lygte - info . dk / info / Measurement%20UK . html
Flashlights are used, but the same technique should work for mods.
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