Burned/Drys Hits on New Ni200 Coils, Need Advice

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JoeJr

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Dec 18, 2015
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Hello vape fam! I'm am searching for a little advice here, in regards to temp control...
I've been vaping for some time now, but I am new to temp control. I read that it pretty much eliminates dry hits, which was my ultimate goal. And it worked for a few weeks.
I'm currently using the Kanger Nebox, with their Ni200 pre-built coils. 80/20 juice. This was working great for me for the first few weeks. Now, I am getting burnt tasting hits that make my throat sore. I prime the coils properly, and I usually do a pre-hit prime by covering the air hole.

I've tried all sorts of watt/temp combos... High temp-low watt, low watt-high temp, high temp-high watt, and low temp-low watt. I'm currently in a stalemate, as none of those work out. There is either a wispy hit, or a burned hit.
This has happened with 3 new coils so far. All three give the burned hit, but all three have clean cotton and the coils look fine to me. Perhaps a little tarnished, but there is no blackness at all, in both the coil and the cotton.
I am at a loss as to what to do now. I've searched and searched, on here, Reddit, and ................... I have found nothing. It seems like this mod is too new or something.
I just bought the Smok X Cube 2 and the TFV4 tank, with the hope that it'll work better than this.

Tl;dr - Burned hits on new coils, with no evidence of a burned hit on the coil.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
 

JoeJr

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Dec 18, 2015
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You do set/lock in your base resistance again each time you change the coil? You can't asume it to be correct just because you put a same make coil. At such low resistances the power output difference is considerable with a slight deviation in the base resistance.
It asks me every time I change a coil if its a new load or not. I hit new if it is. Doing that changes the resistance by a few points each time. The resistance seems to go up a little bit as the coils get used. So no, I don't lock in a base resistance. Its quite amazing how much of a difference there can be with such a small deviation in power...

*Update* I put in the regular subohm OCC coil that came with the kit, and turned off temp mode, and I haven't had any issues so far.
At this point, I've deduced that I received a faulty mod. It could be the coils, but they show no indication of being burned up. The cotton is only slightly discolored from the juice, and the coil isn't gunked up or anything.
I'm not going to say that Kanger produces bad temp control mods, but this is their first temp control device, so there is probably a pretty high chance that there will be some bugs for them to work out.
I'm probably gonna wait a while before I buy my next temp control mod... With the exception with the X Cube II of course. Hopefully Smok made that one into a long lasting and reliable device. If not... Well hell, it lights up and flashes. That's good enough for me!
 

stylemessiah

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Heads up, theres a newer chipset with better tc and more features (and all the wires enabled out of box with no extra payment) in the Smok TreeBox and also the Koopor Plus 200w mod too, than the one in the XCube II/XCube Mini, but if you want bluetooth and flashy lights, go the old chipset in the XCube II/XCube Mini, and be prepared to pay for extra wires.
 
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SpaceApe

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It asks me every time I change a coil if its a new load or not. I hit new if it is. Doing that changes the resistance by a few points each time. The resistance seems to go up a little bit as the coils get used. So no, I don't lock in a base resistance. Its quite amazing how much of a difference there can be with such a small deviation in power...

If you do not lock in the base resistance it will cause issues with the Temperature Control Feature. You should see a little lock symbol next to your coil resistance value on the display when it has been properly locked.
 

crxess

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That might be it... I bought 7, the first two were in a small bag, and the other 5 were in a box. So far, the coils from the box seem to be bad. I didn't really think of that.

Verify on coil - NI200
Vertical or Horizontal Coils?

Vertical, Soak well(very well), fill tank and let it sit for 20-30 minutes

Horizontal, Carefully poke a sewing needle through the wicking/coil to increase wicking.

Always LOCK new coils at Room Temp before using.

Your problem is likely in the Coils, NOT the mod. For Best results(if inexperienced) only purchase Authentic Replacements. To many variations on aftermarket replacement Quality.
:)
 

JoeJr

Full Member
Dec 18, 2015
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Heads up, theres a newer chipset with better tc and more features (and all the wires enabled out of box with no extra payment) in the Smok TreeBox and also the Koopor Plus 200w mod too, than the one in the XCube II/XCube Mini, but if you want bluetooth and flashy lights, go the old chipset in the XCube II/XCube Mini, and be prepared to pay for extra wires.
Thanks for the heads up! So far I like the X Cube 2... Although I haven't tried temp control yet. I'll have to look into those other mods though, for future purchases.
 

JoeJr

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Dec 18, 2015
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Is your juice 80% VG? If so, have you tried a 50/50 mix to see if it may be the thickness of the juice causing the problem? I tend to stick with more a lower VG ratio unless I'm putting it in a dripper to help with wicking/priming.
It is 80%. I thought about buying some PG from my old DIY wholesaler, but I haven't had any issues so far since I've switched back from TC. I'm also gonna invest in some rayon for the rebuildable heads. I've heard good things.
 

JoeJr

Full Member
Dec 18, 2015
11
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Verify on coil - NI200
Vertical or Horizontal Coils?

Vertical, Soak well(very well), fill tank and let it sit for 20-30 minutes

Horizontal, Carefully poke a sewing needle through the wicking/coil to increase wicking.

Always LOCK new coils at Room Temp before using.

Your problem is likely in the Coils, NOT the mod. For Best results(if inexperienced) only purchase Authentic Replacements. To many variations on aftermarket replacement Quality.
:)
They're authentic vertical Ni200 heads from Kanger. I never change out coil heads outside of my home, so temperature wasn't ever an issue. Thanks for the advice though! :)
 

JoeJr

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Dec 18, 2015
11
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29
If you do not lock in the base resistance it will cause issues with the Temperature Control Feature. You should see a little lock symbol next to your coil resistance value on the display when it has been properly locked.
On the Nebox? I'll have to do some additional reading online about that, I suppose. The instructions that came with it appear to be Chinese that was translated using Google or something. The phrasing, grammar, and sentence structure is so bad that it makes it difficult to properly understand...lol
 

GeorgeS

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  • May 31, 2015
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    The only advice that I have is to treat TC coils carefully.

    I like to drench my coils with juice, both inside and out ensuring that all the wick is wet. It is easy enough to put one end of the coil in your mouth and blow out the excess juice.

    The idea here is to EASE yourself up to your desired operating temperature without damaging your new coil in the process.

    Kanger coils have a fairly wide operating range. If your TC mod supports it I'll start with 10-20W of drive at 300F and take a few draws/puffs. Are we getting vapor?

    When a coils resistance is locked (or not!) in at a wrong value you might be getting a TON of vapor at this very meger setting. Best check the coil/tank seating and connections. While there is some fluxuation in factory coil resistance, if the coil says 0.2ohms it should lock in fairly close to 0.2ohms!

    Once you've taken a few draws bump up the temperature 20F and repeat until you've reached your desired temperature. At some point you may find that the 10-20W is not heating the coil fast enough, so bump that up as well. It is very rare (large dual non-factory coils) that more than 30W is needed.

    As others have mentioned, sometimes there is just a bad batch. This can be worked around by using the slow method outlined above. Many folks will just ignore the power+temperature settings and slowly adjust up until the desired vaping experience is had.
     
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    JoeJr

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    Dec 18, 2015
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    The only advice that I have is to treat TC coils carefully.

    I like to drench my coils with juice, both inside and out ensuring that all the wick is wet. It is easy enough to put one end of the coil in your mouth and blow out the excess juice.

    The idea here is to EASE yourself up to your desired operating temperature without damaging your new coil in the process.

    Kanger coils have a fairly wide operating range. If your TC mod supports it I'll start with 10-20W of drive at 300F and take a few draws/puffs. Are we getting vapor?

    When a coils resistance is locked (or not!) in at a wrong value you might be getting a TON of vapor at this very meger setting. Best check the coil/tank seating and connections. While there is some fluxuation in factory coil resistance, if the coil says 0.2ohms it should lock in fairly close to 0.2ohms!

    Once you've taken a few draws bump up the temperature 20F and repeat until you've reached your desired temperature. At some point you may find that the 10-20W is not heating the coil fast enough, so bump that up as well. It is very rare (large dual non-factory coils) that more than 30W is needed.

    As others have mentioned, sometimes there is just a bad batch. This can be worked around by using the slow method outlined above. Many folks will just ignore the power+temperature settings and slowly adjust up until the desired vaping experience is had.
    Thanks for the advice! I appreciate it! I'm gonna let this cold pass and then give TC another shot... Once I'm able to vape again anyway!
     
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