Chip frying on regulated mods?

[8tone8]

Can anyone explain to me on a few tips for chips on regulated mod on how not to fry the chip?and what causes frying of a chip?

Is subohming safe on regulated device ?I don't co crazy sub ohm,lowest I would dare to go is .7 ohms on my dripper with my t8 at 30watts.

Will higher watts with high resistance fry my chip?I'm not talking abt crazy watts tho,at times I build a 1.2 for dripping and fire em at 30watts max.

What are the concerns/precautions on a regulated to not fry it?I just want to stay in the safe zone and have the performance,don't really care for sub ohms.

Regulated devices that I use:
hana modz v3 by cloupor for my squape r/ada t5
Cloupor t8 150watts for my drippers.

I'm just hella paranoid coz I had a friend who had a 50 watt device,who sub ohms .5 with 50watts on 26-24g almost all the time.so he had a few problems with his device recently like jumping ohms(from .8-5.0/6.0)..and even check atomizer all the time.till we inspected the board and realized poor buddy have been vaping on a fried chip.

I just want to be safe.hope anyone can help me out,cheers!

 

[Lastlokean]

Well...

power = voltage * current,

voltage = current * resistance.

substitute voltage from the second equation, to change the first equation to

power = current * current * resistance... or power = voltage * voltage / current.

So if your at 30 watts, and .7 ohms... your pulling 6.5 amps... This could be destroying your power transistor depending on the particular device you are using.

Calling a mod a '50' watt mod, does not mean that circuitry can necessarily output 50 watts to 'any' resistance... It most likely will fry instantly if you try to force 50 watts into a .1 ohm coil, by pulling 22 amps.

Pulling 50 watts at sub-ohms is much different electrically than pulling 50 watts at 1.5+ ohms... I imagine every mod is toggling the output power with some type of transistor, most transistors that can take more than 5 amps are considered 'power transistors', they get pretty hot, they are pretty big and they most likely require a pretty serious heat sink in order to handle that much power for any length of time without melting.

I understand these 'high-watt' mods are the latest rage lately... I'm personally against them because they encourage people to do exactly what you are doing... All this fancy circuitry is just another failure point from my perspective...

If you want to sub-ohm I recommend going mechanical. Also considering nearly all these things may become unavailable pending legislation change, it would be well advised to have at least one mehcanical tucked away to carry you through a potentially lengthy vape-prohibition...

My understanding of the idea behind these high wattage mods, is that giving a 2 ohm coil 50 watts is similar in performance to sub-ohming on a mechanical build with less 'risks'... Using the right battery, and proper understanding, sub-ohming can be very safe. Using the wrong type of battery, or without any understanding of electronics there are affiliated risks whether you are using VV or Mechanical setups...

If you 'really' want to be safe and chase power, go get a NiMH setup, like a DIY-puck... Each AA NiMH can safely and repeatedly output 20+ amps. NiMH really are safer than lithium cells. Stop making things so much more difficult and expensive than they need to be.


Anyways, regarding your 'particular' regulated devices... The Hana Modz V3 - Mini is listed as handling up to 10 amps... That is surprising and impressive to me. I wouldn't be surprised if maybe fire a quick burst at 10 amps, but I'd bet that extended use at 10 amps will overheat circuitry... Also are you sure your hana modz was not a knock-off / clone with inferior circuitry/specs?

By the Cloupor T8 specs, it should be able to handle a lot, being rated to 20 amps.... Again that is surprising and impressive, where are you buying your stuff, are you sure its not a Chinese clone if your buying from a brick-mortar?

Lots of other things could be frying the chips... Humidity / Water, e-juice getting into the circuitry, static charge, putting battery in backwards (even for a second), high external temperature say its 110 outside and you fire at 6 amps, it may not be the same as using when its 75 outside... It could also be a short at the connector / threads, I've seen that happen with crooked pins inside the 510 connectors...