coil build help please

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Jason87

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So I've just attempted my first couple of coil builds using a couple of dud atlantis coils. Used kanthal a1 26g and used a wrap calculator. I'm aiming for a 0.5 ohm build which tells me it's 3/2 wraps using a 4 mm I.D which is puzzling in itself as the stock coils are more like 7/8 and I believed they were 26g also? Well I'm hitting 0.9 on both attempts but am puzzled as to why so little wraps are required. What would be the best gauge wire to use for a 0.5 ohm build on atlantis? Many thanks in advance
 

edyle

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So I've just attempted my first couple of coil builds using a couple of dud atlantis coils. Used kanthal a1 26g and used a wrap calculator. I'm aiming for a 0.5 ohm build which tells me it's 3/2 wraps using a 4 mm I.D which is puzzling in itself as the stock coils are more like 7/8 and I believed they were 26g also? Well I'm hitting 0.9 on both attempts but am puzzled as to why so little wraps are required. What would be the best gauge wire to use for a 0.5 ohm build on atlantis? Many thanks in advance

4mm might be too big for a first coil.

2mm is common.

I tend to do 3mm.
 
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Jason87

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I'm not sure about twisting? I'm new to coil building and still have a lot to figure out. Does anyone know what the stock atlantis cpils wire and gauge is? I compared thebwires and they look the same size, can't figure out how they are like 7 wraps and coming in at .6 ohms? Are more wraps better as more of coil would heat up producing more but cooler vapour? I'm trying to understand the logic of it
 

CloudyWithChanceOfVape

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More wire+high watts=high voltage/faster battery drain.

Less wire+high watts=lower voltage/longer battery.

If you're wanting flavor/clouds check into @Baditude battery safety, and look into RDA's. Watch alot of YouTube videos like grimgeeen and riptrippers.

Get you a resistance tester and for god sake's dont go under .2 ohms unless you're into temp control.
 

Two_Bears

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4mm might be too big for a first coil.

2mm is common.

I tend to do 3mm.

I use 2 and 2.5 mm coils. I prefer 26 or 28 gauge Kanthal.

Beginners should get a quality ohms reader when they start because building too low can be dangerous..

After they build a few coils and have success they can wrap the same number of wraps and feel comfortable in firing it.

Thicker wire has less resistance thinner wire has more resistance. To get the Ohm level you want add more or remove wraps.

Almost all Kanthal wire producers tell the resistance per foot. If a wire has a resistance of 2.4 ohms per foot if you want a .5 ohm coil start with a coil with 2.5-3 inches in the coil not counting the length for the legs. There are ohms calculators online that will let you put in the ohms you want and the inside diameter of the coil and the calculator will tell you how many wraps to make.
 

MrDripper

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Don't trust the ohm meter on the iStick. They are notoriously inaccurate. Invest in a stand alone ohm meter to ensure your safety.
I stick with .03 builds as I find it to be perfect for me.
I'm a Kanthal fan but also enjoy Nichrome builds.
Of course, I'm a guy that spends every evening doing different builds. I try something, if I don't like it, I rip it out and do another. I also log my builds so I don't double build and be wasteful. But that's the beauty of building. You literally have thousands of directions to go and things to try.
Think it over, but know that building incurs more cost.
 
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edyle

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Don't trust the ohm meter on the iStick. They are notoriously inaccurate. Invest in a stand alone ohm meter to ensure your safety.
I stick with .03 builds as I find it to be perfect for me.
I'm a Kanthal fan but also enjoy Nichrome builds.
Of course, I'm a guy that spends every evening doing different builds. I try something, if I don't like it, I rip it out and do another. I also log my builds so I don't double build and be wasteful. But that's the beauty of building. You literally have thousands of directions to go and things to try.
Think it over, but know that building incurs more cost.

That would be 0.3
 
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Two_Bears

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Don't trust the ohm meter on the iStick. They are notoriously inaccurate. Invest in a stand alone ohm meter to ensure your safety.
I stick with .03 builds as I find it to be perfect for me.
I'm a Kanthal fan but also enjoy Nichrome builds.
Of course, I'm a guy that spends every evening doing different builds. I try something, if I don't like it, I rip it out and do another. I also log my builds so I don't double build and be wasteful. But that's the beauty of building. You literally have thousands of directions to go and things to try.
Think it over, but know that building incurs more cost.

I disagree completely.

I have a Wismec Press, istick40tc and a stand alone ohm meter. Gave my Coolfire4 to my sister.

Wismec only reads down to 1/10 of an ohm.

Coolfire4 was .05 away from the ohm meter.

Istick40tc is .02 away from the ohm reading from the ohm meter.

My istick40tc is so accurate I use it for my ohm meter.
 

NealBJr

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Don't trust the ohm meter on the iStick. They are notoriously inaccurate. Invest in a stand alone ohm meter to ensure your safety.
I stick with .03 builds as I find it to be perfect for me.
I'm a Kanthal fan but also enjoy Nichrome builds.
Of course, I'm a guy that spends every evening doing different builds. I try something, if I don't like it, I rip it out and do another. I also log my builds so I don't double build and be wasteful. But that's the beauty of building. You literally have thousands of directions to go and things to try.
Think it over, but know that building incurs more cost.

I tend to disagree with this as well. I recommend testing it on the device as well. Remember, the device sets it's voltage based on what it finds the ohms at and what you have the wattage set at. It doesn't matter what the other ohm meter reads, the voltage it supplies is based on what IT conceives it to be. Remember, the device's internal resistance can affect it as well. I say use a multimeter to help guide you, but the ultimate test is putting it on your device. I don't care what multimeter tested it, when I put it on my device, and it reads .5 ohms, it will treat it like a .5 ohm coil.
 

bigrf85

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i have noticed when i change coils in my atlantis it is the center of the coil that gunks up not the ends which leads ne to believe they are using 2 types of wire joined (non resistance/resistance/non resistance) this is possibly why the coil looks to be so many wraps and yet still has a low resistance. but thats just my theory
 

Jason87

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Hmm well I think I am going to try 24g next to get a lower resistance and still allow for a few wraps as I can't see hitting .5 on a 26g easily as would be like 2/1 wrap, would rather have more of a surface area heating my juice to maintain vapour but not too hot of a vape, that's just a theory I have? Also does the thicker wire (24g) take longer to heat after firing (I belive I read this somewhere);would rather stick to 26g if that's the case. Anyway as I said I hit 0.9 on my first coil but as I have regulated device it's pushed the voltage up to maintain the 30 watts that I vape at and I honestly can't tell the difference in vapour production than that of the stock coils. Only thing i noticed is a slightly off taste that seems to be fading the more I use it that I can only describe as chewing on cotton (not that I've tried that ) would just like to say thanks to everyone that has replied it's helping me to understand the builds a little more
 

NealBJr

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Well I have an istick 50w so tells me what resistance the coils are as soon as I screw it on, what type of coils do you guys build?


Sorry about not replying earlier, I had to get some sleep in. :)

As far as twisting coils, I use that if I have wire that's too thin, and I want a lower ohm coil, you can twist the wire together to make a thicker wire that has less resistance. If you're getting .9 ohm builds, you should be getting a .45 ohm build using the exact same setup by twisting the wire you have now. Maybe take one wrap more to make a higher ohm coil.



If you're trying to mimic the original coils, you can't use the original gauge, since the Atlantis uses a NR-R-NR wire...which means, The wire does not resist electricity for a time, then there's a piece "welded" to the kanthal, then you have kanthal for a short while, then it goes back to the non resistant wire. It's more efficient that way.

Now, you can essentially make your own by using straight kanthal, just keep in mind the leads (or the legs) will also resist some electricity before it gets to the coils. I recoil my Kanger subtank heads all the time using straight kanthal in a very similar method that you'll be using.

I'd probably suggest using 24 gauge as a base wire if you're trying to get .5 ohms as your target. I've heard that they use a 3.5 or 4mm drill bit. That's not to say you HAVE to use that resistance though. The fun part about rebuilding, is you can change the resistance to YOUR liking. I'd try the .9 ohm build you have and see if you like it... if not, then try the lower ohm build.
 
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Jason87

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Yeh the 0.9 vapes fine was trying to get a .5 as lower voltages needed to maintain wattage lasting in slightly longer battery if in correct. I can't tell the difference between .9 and .5 so far I guess because in using regulated to wattage is maintained. Only thing i notice different to stock coils is around 40 watts it seems as I am burning wicking material (Japanese organic cotton) as it tastes a bit off (I vape around 30 anyway)
 

Two_Bears

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Yeh the 0.9 vapes fine was trying to get a .5 as lower voltages needed to maintain wattage lasting in slightly longer battery if in correct. I can't tell the difference between .9 and .5 so far I guess because in using regulated to wattage is maintained. Only thing i notice different to stock coils is around 40 watts it seems as I am burning wicking material (Japanese organic cotton) as it tastes a bit off (I vape around 30 anyway)

I have found the sweet spot for my Kayfun Nano is .8-1 Ohm. My GMini works great at .75-.9
 
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