Copper mod hits harder than SS

[Hawaiian Nate]

First off I would like to say that I'm pretty new to this. I've been smoke free for a little over 100 days. Started with an EGO starter kit, moved to a VV spinner, then on to a MVP2, all in one month. Watched hundreds of YouTube videos on vaping, setups, coil builds, batteries, battery safety, ohms law etc., then decided to get an RDA to put on my MVP2, wrapped a single coil setup and BAM!!! Bliss. Still wanting more, I decided to get an hcigar copper nemmy as my first mech. Purchased some VTC5's and a charger and so began my mech mod journey. Of course the shineyitis kicked in and I started researching for another mod. This time I wanted a SS mod that was different from the nemesis. Picked up a "no-logo" Skeleton Key clone. It is absolutely beautiful, the locking ring is cool but it was just a little bit tall compared to the Nemesis. The top cap is huge and so was the firing button. It also doesn't hit as hard as the copper Nemesis. So I go back to the nemesis. Then I pick up an HCigar SS King V1 mod and it is just gorgeous... I love that the SS is polished. I also picked up a flat top cap to go with it. Gave it a good cleaning, set it up and vaped away... Copper nemesis STILL hits harder. I keep going back to the nemesis for a couple reasons. It's easy to use, you don't have to keep screwing and unscrewing to fix battery rattle and it HITS HARD! I'll buy more mechanical mods for sure, probably get a brass mod next, but I'm beginning to think that copper is the way to go. I just hate the constant maintenance and the smelly hands that come with holding copper.

 

[NealBJr]

....just wait until you get a variable watt mod..one that does 50+ watts.

come to think of it.. I don't own a copper mod.. grrr.... something else to explore.

 

[danca90]

Copper is also softer, so the threads won't last as long, and the 510 has a better chance of stripping out.

 

[Cullin Kin]

Copper is much more conductive than SS. Invest in a nice 4Nine clone or a FUhattan *if you can still find and authentic*. I have both in copper and neither make my hands 'smelly' or green.

 

[rhean]

I have a Cartel that never turns my hands green. It does need more cleanings than ss. I like the patina, btw. I just clean the threads and the contacts, and the rest just gets a wipe.

 

[wonner]

...I'm beginning to think that copper is the way to go. I just hate the constant maintenance and the smelly hands that come with holding copper.

You are absolutely right.

I have Provari, DNA 40, and 3 mechs, but my 26650 copper is in a league of its own. Not even a contest.

As for maintenance. Get a bottle of Tarn-X (Walmart) and maintenance will be about 10 minutes every 2 weeks. Dip, rinse, dry, done. If you like the highly polished look, pick a can of Never-Dull (also Walmart) and use after the Tarn-X. The Never-Dull adds maybe 5 minutes to the process.

Glad you are enjoying it.

 

[noel18]

Try a Stingray X. Copper on the inside only.

 

[The Cloud Minder]

Pffft

My IPV3 hits harder than my Stingray X, and my non copper Manhattan hits almost as hard as my Stingray X, no appreciable difference.

 

[Alien Traveler]

From electrical point of view it does not matter what from mode is made for as long as it is a metal (resistance of a thick metal tube is too low to make any difference between SS and copper). Threads, contacts - they are for real.

 

[Endor]

Try a Stingray X. Copper on the inside only.

+1 on this. I have the 1:1 clone from FT (can't afford the real one and its never in stock anyway), and it's been my favorite mech for several months now. Super easy to adjust the atty to sit flush (floating pin that has no battery rattle at all), wrapped in SS on the outside so no stinky/green hands, and hits really well.

 

[wonner]

From electrical point of view it does not matter what from mode is made for as long as it is a metal (resistance of a thick metal tube is too low to make any difference between SS and copper). Threads, contacts - they are for real.

That is sort of like saying if copper and SS had the same conductivity, they would perform the same.

The problem is, they do not have the same conductivity and therein lies the difference. A very big difference.

I am not an electrical engineer, but do own both steel and pure copper mechs. The difference is very very obvious.

 

[spookyluke]

The posi pin in your mech is important. And then try NO OX ID conductive grease to improve conducting across all the threads in your mech and also keeps them smooth and to reduce wear.

 

[rusirius]

That is sort of like saying if copper and SS had the same conductivity, they would perform the same.

The problem is, they do not have the same conductivity and therein lies the difference. A very big difference.

I am not an electrical engineer, but do own both steel and pure copper mechs. The difference is very very obvious.

Absolutely... It all comes down to voltage drop... In a mech mod you've got one limiting factor... The voltage you can get across the coil... The other thing to consider is that if you're concerned about voltage drop, you're almost certainly running low sub-ohm builds...

So let's say that the difference between a copper mod and a stainless steel mod is only .15 volts... That doesn't sound like much, but think about it...

If we're running a .3 ohm build... at 4 volts we're pushing 53.3 watts... If we pop that same setup on a copper mod with .15 volts less drop we're pushing 4.15 volts... We're now pushing 57.4 watts... The lower the resistance the more difference it will make... And that's assuming only a .15 difference...

 

[The Cloud Minder]

Absolutely... It all comes down to voltage drop... In a mech mod you've got one limiting factor... The voltage you can get across the coil... The other thing to consider is that if you're concerned about voltage drop, you're almost certainly running low sub-ohm builds...

So let's say that the difference between a copper mod and a stainless steel mod is only .15 volts... That doesn't sound like much, but think about it...

If we're running a .3 ohm build... at 4 volts we're pushing 53.3 watts... If we pop that same setup on a copper mod with .15 volts less drop we're pushing 4.15 volts... We're now pushing 57.4 watts... The lower the resistance the more difference it will make... And that's assuming only a .15 difference...

Except the data I've seen on the difference in voltage drop between a copper Manhattan and an aluminum Manhattan is 0.01

I've hit copper mods, IMO 90% of any difference is imaginary hype.

 

[rusirius]

Except the data I've seen on the difference in voltage drop between a copper Manhattan and an aluminum Manhattan is 0.01

I've hit copper mods, IMO 90% of any difference is imaginary hype.

aluminum's conductivity is on par with copper... many houses are even wired with aluminum now due to the increased cost of copper. Stainless steel is sort of in a whole different boat. I don't personally know the voltage drop across a typical copper mod versus a stainless steel mod, but you're going to see a fairly close drop with copper versus aluminum...

 

[The Cloud Minder]

aluminum's conductivity is on par with copper... many houses are even wired with aluminum now due to the increased cost of copper. Stainless steel is sort of in a whole different boat. I don't personally know the voltage drop across a typical copper mod versus a stainless steel mod, but you're going to see a fairly close drop with copper versus aluminum...

Well, I'm not vouching for the numbers I saw, since I didn't do the tests, or figure the theoretical conductivities, but I can't tell the diffrence in the hit on my Stingray X vs my Aluminum Manhattan.

I don't yet own any other Mechs, as I generally prefer my IPVs.

 

[tj99959]

Absolutely... It all comes down to voltage drop... In a mech mod you've got one limiting factor... The voltage you can get across the coil... The other thing to consider is that if you're concerned about voltage drop, you're almost certainly running low sub-ohm builds...

So let's say that the difference between a copper mod and a stainless steel mod is only .15 volts... That doesn't sound like much, but think about it...

If we're running a .3 ohm build... at 4 volts we're pushing 53.3 watts... If we pop that same setup on a copper mod with .15 volts less drop we're pushing 4.15 volts... We're now pushing 57.4 watts... The lower the resistance the more difference it will make... And that's assuming only a .15 difference...

Not really; I normally run a 2 ohm coil in my drippers (A7), and the v drop difference between my brass mods and SS mods is quite noticeable.

 

[spookyluke]

Ever tried stacking aw imr 18350's in your copper nemi? 1.1ohms+. It'll hit harder. Safety first.

 

[Alien Traveler]

That is sort of like saying if copper and SS had the same conductivity, they would perform the same.

The problem is, they do not have the same conductivity and therein lies the difference. A very big difference.

I am not an electrical engineer, but do own both steel and pure copper mechs. The difference is very very obvious.

Conductivity is not important at all. Resistance is important. If resistance of SS mod is less than 0.01 ohm, is it important?

EDIT: I have to say that I calculated resistance of SS mod 100 mm long, 22 mm diameter with walls 2 mm thick. I got it's resistance equal to 0.005 ohm. I do not guarantee quality of my calculations (they are simple, but...) So, I welcome possible corrections.

 

[rusirius]

Not really; I normally run a 2 ohm coil in my drippers (A7), and the v drop difference between my brass mods and SS mods is quite noticeable.

Really? I wouldn't have thought the drop was that significant! Any chance you could throw a meter on them and see exactly how much the drop differential is?