detrimental info for atomizer cleaning!!!

[unseenhero66]

ok ive looked through all of these annnnnnnnnnnnndddd taken apart and rebuilt quite a few 901 and 801 attys would do more but kinda in a fund lacking situation here so anyways.....

first off

should i heat my atty to an extreme? you can heat up the coil for about 30 seconds after you blow it out to remove the gunk but anything after that isnt really needed plus our atomizers use nichrome wire as the heating element after it gets heated enough it forms this black gunk on the wire called chromium oxide don't worry its supposed to be there and its real darned hard to get it off of it just make sure the "build up" is actually buildup before you go heating it to the death

second

our atomizers almost always have plastic in them they put this little plastic spacer in the atomizer below all the micro mesh and between the battery connector for two reasons one is to space them apart at just the right amount for the bridge of the micro mesh to reach into the cartridge filler and the second reason is to allow air through the bottom of the atomizer for the switch on the battery to activate sometimes liquid can get through this but it usually doesn't if it does you might be doing something wrong...


third

our atomizers have a coil this coil is connected to wires the wires also connect the coil to the battery connector this is where our atomizer almost always breaks........

the reasons for this are...... this coil reheats so many times even though at a lower temperature than required to melt solder it slowly over time weakens the solder and the coil snaps off of solder eventually ive actually broken two of my atomizers by tapping it against the counter to get the excess water out of it after washing it out

and also with some of the abrasive chemicals or acids people are using to clean their attys i must stress to wash them out with rubbing alcohol then to rinse them with water VERY VERY VERY WELL the rubbing alcohol usually breaks up these chemicals though so......


this is about all i know basically


if you overheat your atty you can kill it, if you use an acid to clean it you can kill it and the solder is almost always what breaks on me


the coil itself usually dosent break though ive taken a dead coil and stretched the wire into a straight line before and cleaned it by running it thru my fingers and the wire was still black afterwords but i ran 5v though just the wire for 30 minutes straight and it survived


also the wires that connect the coil to the battery connector runs through the micro mesh if the atty gets to hot the plastic on the wire can melt so dont have the thought i did like hey im gonna dry this water out of my atomizer but heating it for a minute with a lighter

don't worry though almost any atty is fixable...... unless the solder breaks off where the coil connects to the wire in the ceramic cup.... too frustrating to fix with hand soldering


basically people rinse your attys out really well with medium hot distilled water why distilled no impurities or use filtered i guess i mean our e liquid is water soluble



and i knew people im not good with punctuation if you wanna fix it by all means go ahead and post it below

 

[solonguniverse]

Will the mesh falling off of your atomizer bridge have any effect on the atty's performance?

 

[Sun Vaporer]

Will the mesh falling off of your atomizer bridge have any effect on the atty's performance?

Solong--it sure will if you use cartridges as it can not wick the mesh that is around that coil. If you drip smoke---it is not as much a problem. But a question for you--------Why or how did your mesh come off the bridge in the first place?-------Thanks--Sun

 

[solonguniverse]

I've only been using my 510 for about 10 days. I've only cleaned one of my atomizers once, before realizing that cleaning could be worse than just letting them be. I started blowing them out and leaving them to dry overnight. I just happened to look into one of my atomizers yesterday and noticed the mesh seemed to be falling off the bridge. It hasn't come off completely its just not in quite the right place.

 

[Sun Vaporer]

I've only been using my 510 for about 10 days. I've only cleaned one of my atomizers once, before realizing that cleaning could be worse than just letting them be. I started blowing them out and leaving them to dry overnight. I just happened to look into one of my atomizers yesterday and noticed the mesh seemed to be falling off the bridge. It hasn't come off completely its just not in quite the right place.

Solo--what did you use as a cleaner and how did you use it? Thanks--Sun

 

[solonguniverse]

I actually started a thread about it because my atomizer wasn't wanting to start back up again.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-im-afraid-i-may-have-killed-my-atomizer.html

 

[Sun Vaporer]

I actually started a thread about it because my atomizer wasn't wanting to start back up again.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...-im-afraid-i-may-have-killed-my-atomizer.html

Solo--Well I can tell you after reading what you used---alchohol is not going to shed that mesh. I have soaked dozens of atomizers in
70 % Phosphoric Acid and the mesh does not budge. Must have been the atomizer itself.------Sun

 

[solonguniverse]

Hm. He does have a 15 day return policy at thesmokesafe. Should I consider sending it in for an exchange? Only one of them seems to be doing it.

Edit: I just checked again and the mesh has come almost completely off the bridge. I do use carts so this could be a problem.

 

[Sun Vaporer]

Hm. He does have a 15 day return policy at thesmokesafe. Should I consider sending it in for an exchange? Only one of them seems to be doing it.

Edit: I just checked again and the mesh has come almost completely off the bridge. I do use carts so this could be a problem.

Solo--if you ever take one apart, you would see how durable that mesh is--it is not suppose to come off and the one you got is defective IMO. The mesh was not propery attached to the medal bridge prong ---------Sun

 

[solonguniverse]

Thank you for all your help Sun. I will now officially un-hijack this thread. My apologies!

 

[Sun Vaporer]

Thank you for all your help Sun. I will now officially un-hijack this thread. My apologies!

You are welcome--as the original OP correctly points out--the contact points snapping is the real issue in atomizer failure. Presevation is what we are working on -----Sun

 

[kinabaloo]

Before this becomes folklore, I should point out that the deposit is most definitely NOT chromium oxide. It is juice residue, plus a bit of tin (presumably from the solder joints, which is a bit strange as the tin is likely only a small fraction of the solder; but the thinking is that this is due to some kind of electro-chemical action or perhaps a 'tin whiskers' effect).

 

[unseenhero66]

Before this becomes folklore, I should point out that the deposit is most definitely NOT chromium oxide. It is juice residue, plus a bit of tin (presumably from the solder joints, which is a bit strange as the tin is likely only a small fraction of the solder; but the thinking is that this is due to some kind of electro-chemical action or perhaps a 'tin whiskers' effect).

Nichrome

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Jump to: navigation, search
Nichrome is a brand name for a nickel-chromium resistance wire, a non-magnetic alloy of nickel and chromium. A common alloy is 80% nickel and 20% chromium, by weight, but there are many others to accommodate various applications. It is silvery-grey in colour, is corrosion resistant, and has a high melting point of about 1400 °C. Due to its relatively high resistivity and resistance to oxidation at high temperatures, it is widely used in heating elements, such as in hair dryers, electric ovens and toasters. Typically, Nichrome is wound in wire coils to a certain electrical resistance, and current passed through to produce heat.
Nichrome is used in the explosives and fireworks industry as a bridgewire in reliable electric ignition system, such as electric matches and model rocket igniters.
Nichrome wire is commonly used in ceramics as an internal support structure to help some elements of clay sculptures hold their shape while they are still soft. Nichrome wire is used because of its ability to withstand the high temperatures that occur when a clay work is fired in a kiln.
The alloy tends to be expensive due to its high nickel content. Distributor pricing is typically indexed to commodity market prices for nickel.
Other areas of usage include motorcycle silencers, and in certain microbiological lab apparatus.
For heating, resistance wire must be stable in air when hot. Nichrome wire forms a protective layer of chromium oxide. [1]








sources..............






wiki annnddd



http://www.sci-ed-ga.org/modules/materialscience/light/pdf/section_13.pdf

 

[dinobello]

How do you take apart a 510 atty? is it possible?

 

[happily]

How do you take apart a 510 atty? is it possible?

510 attys are very hard to take apart........The glue is amazing. Only one i've had apart was due to dropping it off a ladder twice and just dropping in several other times. If you do ever get one apart make sure to pull all the fibers between the bridge and the coil out(eventually they will start to burn) They do not affect the performance.

Actually I've had 2 apart(but I bent the **** out of it and buggered it up a lot even with heating the glue.) I'm amazed I got it back it was so bent up, but it tasted so bad I had to

 

[kinabaloo]

Yes, of course there is a minute layer of oxide. But that's not the problem!

The deposit that kills atomisers can get bigger than the coil itself. It is NOT chromium oxide (this would never be more than a few atoms thick) !

It is charred juice residue.

~~~

ps: a correction re tin in the deposit; it can be the major constituent of some solders.

 

[Sun Vaporer]

Yes, of course there is a minute layer of oxide. But that's not the problem!

The deposit that kills atomisers can get bigger than the coil itself. It is NOT chromium oxide!

It is charred juice residue.

Kinna--I do not know why that is so hard to understand. I guess that is why we lost Exo---------Sun

 

[kinabaloo]

Kinna--I do not know why that is so hard to understand. I guess that is why we lost Exo---------Sun

Maybe Exo will be back one day ...

I don't blame the poster - it's an easy mistake to make. The oxide is a fact; but it is so tiny in amount and didn't even show up in the deposit analysis that Exo did.

The juice deposit is clearly demonstrable by the teaspoon method (heat some juice on a teaspoon and see what's left after most evaporates).

Need to dig up one of those 'horror' pictures of a typical atty after a month's use !