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They have to have a hole in them to make them automatic. They work off a air pressure sensor.
That's what I figured. Sorry for the double post, my internet connection flickered. I'd love it if I could drip using an automatic - I like the drip tip specifically because I can't crush it between my teeth the way that I do carts (I mentioned that I participate in political forums? LMAOAPM) all too frequently.
I've had terrible luck with cartomizers so far, but I guess I'm going to have to find my equilibrium on that front in order to get the best vaping experience.
Revolve:
Thanks for the rules of engagement on dripping, I have made many of hte same mistakes and it does take practice. Good post!
Thanks for the rules of engagement on dripping, I have made many of hte same mistakes and it does take practice. Good post!
Sorry I have not replied to any posts before, but my girlfriend wouldn't let me take my computer on holidays!
Updating now...
Thanks JWebb.
Wench: LOL. Big time fun thy post was!
Hogie: The 306 is an atty with an exposed bridge, then, 'dipping' may be way better than dripping here. This technique consists of simply letting the atty's bridge sit onto some liquid and letting the mesh 'drink' from it; five seconds should be the right time. This method works maybe better than dripping for it translates more consistency and it does not require any skills! Many people use contact-lenses' cases as a dipping aid...
Girl4givn and the rest:
@ auto batteries: Unlike most manual batteries which are sealed, automatic ones are not, thus resulting in a unit which will very likely be destroyed when dripping out of liquid draining through their hole. The auto batts do not have a button and are activated when you puff on your unit, as some of you correctly pointed out. There are two types of auto batts: sound-activated and air-pressure activated via suction.
When it comes to the position: the right position you should hold your PV in shall be a horizontal one for this will avoid, or at least reduce, the possibilities of liquid draining down the threaded end and onto your battery, which may very well result in clogging. Once you become an 'advanced dripper' you will even be able to drip more this way; feeling your liquid and preventing it from 'pooling' in the ceramic cup while you vape, and you will be able to move your unit as to let more liquid onto your heating element as necessary in a subconcious way; it will become second nature. However, at first, it may be tricky and as you mentioned, it is natural for beginners to go the other way round; to hold their e-cigs down as to avoid some liquid into their mouth. If this is the case; liquid into your mouth, it is because you have either dripped too much or haven't given your atty enough time to absorb the e-liquid... Or maybe your drip tip had a 'bubble'. So, this is a habit you may wanna get rid of.
In connection with gurgling: It is not necessarily wrong, though, it indicates flooding, and if your atty is flooded the quality of your vape will be far less than expected. Then again, a bit of a gurgling may only indicate a 'wet vape' as those typical of many bottom-feeders which is appreciated by many, and not necessarily of a lower quality.
And, last but not least: You asked me about modding... Well, for the most part, modding is a good and positive thing for it translates some enhancement... But this will depend on the case due to the subjective nature of the assessment of the modifications in light of personal preferences. So, whether modding is good or bad? You should be the jugde here...
PS: In connection with your doubts, Girl4givn, regarding the Volcano Inferno's atty... I guess this is a 510, or maybe an eGo Mega type of atty; this model is an eGo-type PV... I think, but should check...! And... About the cleaning issues: There are many methods out there which could be effective. I would personally recommend a simple 'blow job' as a daily cleaning... And a 'dry burn' as an every now and then deeper clean method. Though, the latter is a very extreme procedure and involves a risk of destroying your atty (But will work like a charm if it survives!).
The Blow Job: Simply blow through any end of your atty as long as you can (Be very careful because you may get dizzy and even pass out!!!) and repeat until there is no more liquid running through the opposite end into a paper towel....... Clean thread; wipe them... And that's it! Then prime your atty!
Dry burn: Remember it is dangerous, so you should only do it when necessary and in a worst case scenario: The way I do it (keeping it simple!):
1. Rinse your atty flushing hot water through it using the sink for around one and a half minute.
2. Give your atty a blow job until it is completely dry.
3. Keep the button of your manual battery pressed until cut-off or for around ten seconds, gently blowing on your atty as it 'smokes' the water and residues.
4. As it becomes dry your heating coil will start to glow... continue with those 'burn shots' of around ten seconds... for about four times or until there's no more 'smoking' or you can see the whole coil is white clean (this is possible only if debridged). Be careful and prevent your coil from glowing red hot; keep it on the orange scale!
5. Repeat number 2; The Blow Job (heeee!).
Thats it!
A vodka/ alcohol (the pharma grade if Im not mistaken...but check this!) bath will be also very effective (soaking for 15 mins) but if done for too long / many times may degrade the gluing and other inner atty parts in the long term...! And cleaning your atties with this or similar solutions may also be done with a syringe as a pressurised cleaning method.
There are many methods out there and you should check the threads and try out the ones which sound safe and effective to you. And, maybe you should try this before any method of choice, as suggested here:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...or-utilizing-your-cleaning-method-choice.html
Updating now...
Thanks JWebb.
Wench: LOL. Big time fun thy post was!
Hogie: The 306 is an atty with an exposed bridge, then, 'dipping' may be way better than dripping here. This technique consists of simply letting the atty's bridge sit onto some liquid and letting the mesh 'drink' from it; five seconds should be the right time. This method works maybe better than dripping for it translates more consistency and it does not require any skills! Many people use contact-lenses' cases as a dipping aid...
Girl4givn and the rest:
@ auto batteries: Unlike most manual batteries which are sealed, automatic ones are not, thus resulting in a unit which will very likely be destroyed when dripping out of liquid draining through their hole. The auto batts do not have a button and are activated when you puff on your unit, as some of you correctly pointed out. There are two types of auto batts: sound-activated and air-pressure activated via suction.
When it comes to the position: the right position you should hold your PV in shall be a horizontal one for this will avoid, or at least reduce, the possibilities of liquid draining down the threaded end and onto your battery, which may very well result in clogging. Once you become an 'advanced dripper' you will even be able to drip more this way; feeling your liquid and preventing it from 'pooling' in the ceramic cup while you vape, and you will be able to move your unit as to let more liquid onto your heating element as necessary in a subconcious way; it will become second nature. However, at first, it may be tricky and as you mentioned, it is natural for beginners to go the other way round; to hold their e-cigs down as to avoid some liquid into their mouth. If this is the case; liquid into your mouth, it is because you have either dripped too much or haven't given your atty enough time to absorb the e-liquid... Or maybe your drip tip had a 'bubble'. So, this is a habit you may wanna get rid of.
In connection with gurgling: It is not necessarily wrong, though, it indicates flooding, and if your atty is flooded the quality of your vape will be far less than expected. Then again, a bit of a gurgling may only indicate a 'wet vape' as those typical of many bottom-feeders which is appreciated by many, and not necessarily of a lower quality.
And, last but not least: You asked me about modding... Well, for the most part, modding is a good and positive thing for it translates some enhancement... But this will depend on the case due to the subjective nature of the assessment of the modifications in light of personal preferences. So, whether modding is good or bad? You should be the jugde here...
PS: In connection with your doubts, Girl4givn, regarding the Volcano Inferno's atty... I guess this is a 510, or maybe an eGo Mega type of atty; this model is an eGo-type PV... I think, but should check...! And... About the cleaning issues: There are many methods out there which could be effective. I would personally recommend a simple 'blow job' as a daily cleaning... And a 'dry burn' as an every now and then deeper clean method. Though, the latter is a very extreme procedure and involves a risk of destroying your atty (But will work like a charm if it survives!).
The Blow Job: Simply blow through any end of your atty as long as you can (Be very careful because you may get dizzy and even pass out!!!) and repeat until there is no more liquid running through the opposite end into a paper towel....... Clean thread; wipe them... And that's it! Then prime your atty!
Dry burn: Remember it is dangerous, so you should only do it when necessary and in a worst case scenario: The way I do it (keeping it simple!):
1. Rinse your atty flushing hot water through it using the sink for around one and a half minute.
2. Give your atty a blow job until it is completely dry.
3. Keep the button of your manual battery pressed until cut-off or for around ten seconds, gently blowing on your atty as it 'smokes' the water and residues.
4. As it becomes dry your heating coil will start to glow... continue with those 'burn shots' of around ten seconds... for about four times or until there's no more 'smoking' or you can see the whole coil is white clean (this is possible only if debridged). Be careful and prevent your coil from glowing red hot; keep it on the orange scale!
5. Repeat number 2; The Blow Job (heeee!).
Thats it!
A vodka/ alcohol (the pharma grade if Im not mistaken...but check this!) bath will be also very effective (soaking for 15 mins) but if done for too long / many times may degrade the gluing and other inner atty parts in the long term...! And cleaning your atties with this or similar solutions may also be done with a syringe as a pressurised cleaning method.
There are many methods out there and you should check the threads and try out the ones which sound safe and effective to you. And, maybe you should try this before any method of choice, as suggested here:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...or-utilizing-your-cleaning-method-choice.html
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New update to the thread:
Many members have asked me about de-wicking / de-bridging an atty, and since this is a directly related issue, I thought it could come in handy to post a summary on this in here.
I will simply tell you first, as a DISCLAIMER: you may destroy your atty while doing this. So, unless you are experienced maybe it is best advised not to go this way. Then again, if your atty is about to go kaput you may try this. Also: It will be only for dripping purposes, blah blah!
Possible reasons for these type of atties' 'surgery':
1. You are experienced and into MODS and know what you are doing; as a professional modding purpose;
2. Your atty is dying and/or seems to be for its performance is weak; it produces a bad quality and bad smell vape, etc. And so, you have tried many cleaning / resurrection methods and nothing seems to work so you want to give this a try because it sounds sensible as a last resource;
3. You are simply curious about the possible difference in performance which may suit you, and are willing to give this a shot knowing you may destroy an atty.
I will not post any video or tutorial on how to de-wick / de-bridge for there's plenty of threads on this, even some very cool techniques on how to do it fast and "safe" (still risky, maybe safer...), blah, blah, blah! So, basically I will just point out the direction you should take.
The better / worse the performance to your atty will get after surgery will depend on a large number of factors. For the most part, the very assesment to it will be subjective based on personal preferences. However, whether you like it better or not, there are certain circumstances which may be agreed on. I shall list those general advantages and disadvantages:
PROS: Your atty will be 'freed' from fibers 'interfering' with its proper working process which melt and gunk and blah blah blah! Thus resulting in a better working atty. At the same time, it will respond better and maybe fire more effectively. You will have a more intuitive feedback to how your atty is feeling and it will be easier and more natural to tell whether it is thirsty or full... You will also notice that the vaping sessions will translate into more consistency between puffs; every puff will rock! But, at the same time, this leads us to the main disadvantage, being that of the fact your atty will not be able to hold as much liquid as it used to; just a tiny drop which will mean your vaping sessions will be way shorter and this maybe a real hassle, to say the least. Other obvious disadvantages are you wont be able to use carts again and similar. But, if you want to change flavors this will create the right circumstances as to go for it at ease. Many other apects may stem from this surgery, but you should get the general picture by now.
One of the first guys, if not the very first indeed, to post about this procedure was Phee, who, summarizing: First removed the wicking fibers that are down the atties bridge as to get rid of the nasty ones which were melting onto the coil and preventing the atty from working creating a burn taste and such. Soon he realised that, for some reason, removing the bridge altogether worked better for this. But eventually, he discovered that at high watts the liquid is likely to pop and jump into your mouth burning you. So, he thought it was best to remove the bridge inner-metal piece and the fibers or wick below it, but not the very mesh over the bridge. For if you put this back into position it would create a 'backsplash' protection from this, as he put it. This is what you wanna do; dont remove this for it does not affect the vaping process plus it will both protect you and absorve more liquid. So, you could simply do with just de-wicking, but removing the metal inner bridge will allow you to have easier acces to the coil and cup for cleaning or instant feedback purpose.
Oooops! Gotta go... Well, Im done, anyway; hope this helps!
PS: As you start dripping a completely dried atty this way two drops will be ok. But eventually they will result in two much, and ONE 'average' / small drop will do. This is because at first some liquid will be asborved by the mesh and will stay in it. When the mesh is full, so to speak, two drops will flood and clogg your atty, as they will go directly into the ceramic cup. This is true for almost every de-bridged atty: One drop only! Plus when you drag, sometimes you will force some of the retained liquid out of the mesh and into the cup, so one will do. This shall provide for an average of 2-4 drags.
PS bis: I forgot mentioning this topic is controversial and some experts claim it is not necessary to de-wick or de-bridge because of the fact the wick does not burn but rather turns black due to burn residue and cleaning could restore its 'white' condition. This may very well be true, but then again, my interpretation to this whole matter in light of my personal experience tells me that whether it actually burns or not does not really matter for to practical effects it is af if really got burned, and cleaning may partially work but does not restore the atty's original 'perfect' condition as much as this, particularly in certain cases of substantial accumulation of residue. Also: The pros of this procedure are true to me and many others, empirically. For the most part, consistency and a 'clean' vape are something which is not strong in atties in general and this MOD seems to make up for this.
Many members have asked me about de-wicking / de-bridging an atty, and since this is a directly related issue, I thought it could come in handy to post a summary on this in here.
I will simply tell you first, as a DISCLAIMER: you may destroy your atty while doing this. So, unless you are experienced maybe it is best advised not to go this way. Then again, if your atty is about to go kaput you may try this. Also: It will be only for dripping purposes, blah blah!
Possible reasons for these type of atties' 'surgery':
1. You are experienced and into MODS and know what you are doing; as a professional modding purpose;
2. Your atty is dying and/or seems to be for its performance is weak; it produces a bad quality and bad smell vape, etc. And so, you have tried many cleaning / resurrection methods and nothing seems to work so you want to give this a try because it sounds sensible as a last resource;
3. You are simply curious about the possible difference in performance which may suit you, and are willing to give this a shot knowing you may destroy an atty.
I will not post any video or tutorial on how to de-wick / de-bridge for there's plenty of threads on this, even some very cool techniques on how to do it fast and "safe" (still risky, maybe safer...), blah, blah, blah! So, basically I will just point out the direction you should take.
The better / worse the performance to your atty will get after surgery will depend on a large number of factors. For the most part, the very assesment to it will be subjective based on personal preferences. However, whether you like it better or not, there are certain circumstances which may be agreed on. I shall list those general advantages and disadvantages:
PROS: Your atty will be 'freed' from fibers 'interfering' with its proper working process which melt and gunk and blah blah blah! Thus resulting in a better working atty. At the same time, it will respond better and maybe fire more effectively. You will have a more intuitive feedback to how your atty is feeling and it will be easier and more natural to tell whether it is thirsty or full... You will also notice that the vaping sessions will translate into more consistency between puffs; every puff will rock! But, at the same time, this leads us to the main disadvantage, being that of the fact your atty will not be able to hold as much liquid as it used to; just a tiny drop which will mean your vaping sessions will be way shorter and this maybe a real hassle, to say the least. Other obvious disadvantages are you wont be able to use carts again and similar. But, if you want to change flavors this will create the right circumstances as to go for it at ease. Many other apects may stem from this surgery, but you should get the general picture by now.
One of the first guys, if not the very first indeed, to post about this procedure was Phee, who, summarizing: First removed the wicking fibers that are down the atties bridge as to get rid of the nasty ones which were melting onto the coil and preventing the atty from working creating a burn taste and such. Soon he realised that, for some reason, removing the bridge altogether worked better for this. But eventually, he discovered that at high watts the liquid is likely to pop and jump into your mouth burning you. So, he thought it was best to remove the bridge inner-metal piece and the fibers or wick below it, but not the very mesh over the bridge. For if you put this back into position it would create a 'backsplash' protection from this, as he put it. This is what you wanna do; dont remove this for it does not affect the vaping process plus it will both protect you and absorve more liquid. So, you could simply do with just de-wicking, but removing the metal inner bridge will allow you to have easier acces to the coil and cup for cleaning or instant feedback purpose.
Oooops! Gotta go... Well, Im done, anyway; hope this helps!
PS: As you start dripping a completely dried atty this way two drops will be ok. But eventually they will result in two much, and ONE 'average' / small drop will do. This is because at first some liquid will be asborved by the mesh and will stay in it. When the mesh is full, so to speak, two drops will flood and clogg your atty, as they will go directly into the ceramic cup. This is true for almost every de-bridged atty: One drop only! Plus when you drag, sometimes you will force some of the retained liquid out of the mesh and into the cup, so one will do. This shall provide for an average of 2-4 drags.
PS bis: I forgot mentioning this topic is controversial and some experts claim it is not necessary to de-wick or de-bridge because of the fact the wick does not burn but rather turns black due to burn residue and cleaning could restore its 'white' condition. This may very well be true, but then again, my interpretation to this whole matter in light of my personal experience tells me that whether it actually burns or not does not really matter for to practical effects it is af if really got burned, and cleaning may partially work but does not restore the atty's original 'perfect' condition as much as this, particularly in certain cases of substantial accumulation of residue. Also: The pros of this procedure are true to me and many others, empirically. For the most part, consistency and a 'clean' vape are something which is not strong in atties in general and this MOD seems to make up for this.
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(PS ter) Bottom line, to put it simple, is: If you are a DRIPPER, then, the disadvantages (consistency-wise mostly) of keeping the wicking fibers down the coil (for they possibly do not burn 'per se' but let more residue diminish the quality of your vape creating the notorious burn-taste) totally outweight the possible wicking pros. And de-wicked atties behave better as they are burn-taste free! PERIOD.
Link on how to remove your wick:
REMEMBER you may DESTROY your atty...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ap1c4EwKRAY
And keep it simple and do not remove your bridge or mesh; just the wick will do. Removing the bridge is dangerous and not really very helpful in terms of performance so it is not worthy.
Link on how to remove your wick:
REMEMBER you may DESTROY your atty...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ap1c4EwKRAY
And keep it simple and do not remove your bridge or mesh; just the wick will do. Removing the bridge is dangerous and not really very helpful in terms of performance so it is not worthy.
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Hey! Why didn't you tell me this before i took the bridge out!!! (just kidding LOL)
I love the taste in the one I did today. Consistent and tasty! As you say, "Welcome to the dark side!"
I love the taste in the one I did today. Consistent and tasty! As you say, "Welcome to the dark side!"
There's a tall guy with horns outside shouting that if I don't bring him a shrubbery he'll take my PV and say ni to me again.
Haaaa. LOL
Welcome to 'my thread' mortios...
Actually Hogie I had been meaning to post this for a long time, but yesterday; as I read your thread about your de-bridging experience, I just decided it was about time. Hows that guttered atty doing today?
PS: And how did you do with DIPPING the 306??
Welcome to 'my thread' mortios...
Actually Hogie I had been meaning to post this for a long time, but yesterday; as I read your thread about your de-bridging experience, I just decided it was about time. Hows that guttered atty doing today?
PS: And how did you do with DIPPING the 306??
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Good to know! And what about the 306 you had mentioned; Have you tried out DIPPING instead of dripping there?
Most people have been praising the 306 but the LR, or CISCO LR versions...
The regular one is good for flavors IMO, though.
The CANNON drip tip is the BOMB for these atties! But then again DIPPING is the best way to go here...!
As I have posted before:
The 306 is an atty with an exposed bridge, then, 'dipping' may be way better than dripping here. This technique consists of simply letting the atty's bridge sit onto some liquid and letting the mesh 'drink' from it; five seconds should be the right time. This method works maybe better than dripping for it translates more consistency and it does not require any skills! Many people use contact-lenses' cases as a dipping aid...
Most people have been praising the 306 but the LR, or CISCO LR versions...
The regular one is good for flavors IMO, though.
The CANNON drip tip is the BOMB for these atties! But then again DIPPING is the best way to go here...!
As I have posted before:
The 306 is an atty with an exposed bridge, then, 'dipping' may be way better than dripping here. This technique consists of simply letting the atty's bridge sit onto some liquid and letting the mesh 'drink' from it; five seconds should be the right time. This method works maybe better than dripping for it translates more consistency and it does not require any skills! Many people use contact-lenses' cases as a dipping aid...
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No, I have not tried dipping yet. I am a miser with my juice and see this as being wastefull since you will end up losing some in the cup or whatever you pour juice into so you can dip. I have not used the 306 atty as much as I do the 510s.
I am starting to get quite a collection of juices now. I even make sure I have a stash of the favs besides what I have in my goodie box. I keep the extra bottles in a dark cool closet.
Great dripping post! I know many people have heard so much about dripping, but do not have good experience with it due to the learning curve involved. Very nice revolver!
Hogie: You wouldnt be wasting any juice that way for you would 'top off' whatever container you are using and the 'bottom juice' could always be absorved and re-used by means of a syringe... Furthermore, DIPPING saves FAR more juice than its dripping brother; you may even get no leaks, virtually, and most juice would go right where it should.
So, DO consider this...
PS: DIPPING is just for 'exposed-bridge' atties, such as 306...
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