How do I get my Subtank mini RBA to fire?

[Danny55]

I can't get the rba to work because it's about 2mm shorter than the stock coils, and on my sigelei 50w it reads 'check atomiser'. By pushing the brass pin out of the base of the Kanger subtank mini, I was able to remove the white rubber grommet that the brass pin slides into and which holds the brass pin in place, and this allowed the pin to drop a couple of mm further down, make connection and fire succesfully. But it means that each time I unscrew the subtank from my mod I'd have to make sure I don't lose the pin as it would drop out. Also, I don't know if that rubber grommet acts as an insulator and if it's dangerous not to have it.

I've seen a couple of other solutions for this issue, like wrapping kanthal through the airholes of the RBA to make contact with the subtank base. I tried it but obviously didn't do it very well as it didn't fire. I saw another solution but can't figure out how to do it. This one:

I got this same problem with 25mm model in RTA mode.
In my case, the problem was caused by improper contact of the RTA section to the 510 connection at the base section.
Solved with a diy ring, put at the RTA section to secure the connection.

View attachment 406630

Am I meant to pull the pin out of mine like he's done? Mine doesn't move, it seems solid. As seen in the background of this picture:

http://s2.postimg.org/5cn4vsveh/pin.jpg

When I bought this subtank mini just a week or so ago, I was informed that it's the V2. I thought this issue was an early problem later resolved, so is it likely I was sold the V1 or do they both suffer this? There's nothing on the box to say V2.

 

[Flyer]

My solution to your problem was to replace the tank with another brand (Herakles in my case). I had several STM's and they ALL had the same problem or wandering resistance. My advise is to just replace the junk with a quality tank and be done with it.

 

[Ablonz]

I saw a post somewhere here on ecf that the bottom of the RBA just needs to be tightened a little bit. I took a small allen key and stuck it through the bottom hole a gave it a little tweak and noticed it did snug a little more. After that, no wondering resistance. Good connection is key. Never heard of them having an issue but if you don't look, you don't find. Hope you get it working.

 

[Jwaterski]

Pretty sure the pin in the RBA unscrews. The pin in the AFC just slides out.

 

[Danny55]

Thanks guys. Flyer, I'm inclined to agree with you and throw this piece of crap down the toilet. What were Kanger thinking making the RBA shorter than the stock coils.

Jwaterski, yep, you're right. I stuck a small screwdriver through the airholes and it turned and pulled out easily. Now for the next problem. I'm able to get it to fire since I pulled the pin out a millimetre or so, as seen in my photo here with yellow arrows:


But one side of the RBA deck is now loose, because there's a threading at the end of the pin I've pulled out, that screws into the airhole under the coil.






So sometimes it fires and sometimes it doesn't. I don't know how to fix that.

 

[puffon]

I would try to return the tank.
You were sold old stock, with that known RDA problem.
This was an issue when it was released last December.
If your vendor won't help, try contacting Kanger.

 

[Jwaterski]

Small washer on the pin maybe? I think I'd look for a neoprene washer though.

 

[Danny55]

I would try to return the tank.
You were sold old stock, with that known RDA problem.
This was an issue when it was released last December.
If your vendor won't help, try contacting Kanger.

I went to the shop a few days ago and it worked on some mod of his. I don't know how. He immediately blamed the problem on the 510 pin of my Sigelei 50w. He also said that because I'd put some juice on the RBA coil that it voids the warranty. It just so happens that I dropped the pyrex glass and smashed it, so am using the spare. I'm sure that would ruin any chance of a refund. I've just looked at the subtank mini V1 on youtube and the chimney surrounding the deck doesn't have the tiny screw like mine does. So it looks I do actually have the V2. When you say old stock, does that mean the V1, or early versions of the V2, with the same connection issue?

I don't think the shop is going to be very helpful to me and I might have wasted £26. I need to get in touch with Kanger but not sure if they have a UK headquarters, do you happen to know? Can I buy just a replacement RBA deck that doesn't have the issue?

Small washer on the pin maybe? I think I'd look for a neoprene washer though.

I wrapped some 28 gauge kanthal around the pin but couldn't get the pin to screw back in. If I can find my soldering iron, I could screw the pin back normally and try putting solder on the top of the pin that meets the 510 inside the kanger base.

 

[puffon]

When you say old stock, does that mean the V1

Yes, I was thinking it was a V1.
This is the main Kanger site: http://www.kangertech.com/
Fasttech sells clone and authentic replacement RBAs
https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10014112/2390700-authentic-kangertech-subtank-mini-rba-plus-coil
https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10014665/2551300-replacement-rebuildable-rba-plus-coil-head-for
You may find a UK shop selling them

 

[Danny55]

Yes, I was thinking it was a V1.
This is the main Kanger site: http://www.kangertech.com/
Fasttech sells clone and authentic replacement RBAs
https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10014112/2390700-authentic-kangertech-subtank-mini-rba-plus-coil
https://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10014665/2551300-replacement-rebuildable-rba-plus-coil-head-for
You may find a UK shop selling them

Thanks. yeah, I've bought some things from fasttech before, good company.
Since I appear to have the V2, I've no idea which of those fasttech RBAs, authentic or clone, will work any better than mine. I'll have to make a post on there and ask if anyone knows.

 

[Danny55]

Hey guys, I joined the kangertech forum in china and am not getting very far. What do you think of this. I told them that the RBA is about 2mm shorter than the OCC coils, and the OCC coils work fine. This is the reply I got:


kangertech: In fact, the RBA and OCC have same length, because the RBA has a groove on it, so it seems short. For the "check atomizer", please take out the coil and put the center pin of your air flow base towards the tank direction. Put your coil onto the airflow base. The center pin of the air flow base will push outwards. This can verify the connection between the coil and mod.


I sent a reply back just now and am awaiting an answer:

Me: "You say the RBA is not shorter, but please look at my picture from the yellow lines I've marked. The RBA is clearly shorter and so does not meet the centre pin of the airflow base.

http://s27.postimg.org/xzcof72wz/RBA_pin_size.jpg


You say "take out the coil and put the center pin of your air flow base towards the tank direction" But I cannot push it further because the rubber insulator stops it. So how is this RBA meant to fire?"

I'll see what they have to say.