Mechanical Mod Battery Questions

[amesenbrink]

I am a casual ex-smoker, and vape before work, at lunch and in the evening, not constant use. Wanting something a bit nicer than my ego vv mod so I ordered a mechanical mod and rba (Nemesis Clone and IGO L). I also ordered some batteries without much research. After doing some research I'm a bit worried I may have purchased less than optimal batteries. Here is what I have: 1 - Efest 30AMP IMR18650- 1600mah, and 2 - IMR 18350 800mah 3.7v High Drain Li-mn button top. Along with this I purchased a Nitecore Intellicharger I2 charger.

I have no plans building coils below 1.5 ohms, and according to what I have read these batteries should work just fine so here are my questions:

Do I need battery fuses?
Do I need a fuse if I use a evod kick?
Are there warning signs, like the mod gets hot, if the batteries are being pushed?
Should I toss these and get something else? (if yes please state recommendations)
Other than putting batteries in upside down are there any other "warnings" when using a mechanical mod?
What kind of vaping time can I expect from these batteries?

I've read a lot about this and done the math on these batteries. I'm sure these questions have been answered before but I would really appreciate some feedback from the pros. Thanks

 

[tj99959]

A fuse is not a bad idea, especially while you are learning how to build coils.

The Efest IMR batteries are fine, in fact they are what I use.

 

[RedNBlack]

Hey brink,
Batteries should be good for MODS or MECH.
Charger is a good choice.

Battery safety first,
Fuse in any MECH.
They do not usually have any built in protection .

Do not stack batteries in a MECH.

Sure others will add pretty quickly.

 

[Stosh]

A fuse in a mech is always a great idea, it's the only protection you have. A kick will limit the voltage / amperage, but not protect you from a short circuit that bypasses the kick (not likely but possible)

If the mod or batteries get hot it would be a sign of a problem, but it may not give you much time to react. Your batteries and charger are good quality and fine for your use, figure about 1 hr per 100 mah for your run times,

As far as coils I would recommend using a 2.0 - 2.5 ohm wrap, less burnt tastes... There is no voltage controls on a mech, your adjustments are with the resistance of your toppers. I've found that range works well with most flavors without burning.

 

[Ryedan]

After doing some research I'm a bit worried I may have purchased less than optimal batteries. Here is what I have: 1 - Efest 30AMP IMR18650- 1600mah, and 2 - IMR 18350 800mah 3.7v High Drain Li-mn button top. Along with this I purchased a Nitecore Intellicharger I2 charger.

I have no plans building coils below 1.5 ohms,

The 18350 is good down to about 0.7 ohms and the 18650 is better than that. If you are staying at or above 1.5 ohms, I suggest you use a fuse. The only reason I would not use one is if I wanted to go sub-ohm below what they can support. 1.5 ohms is well within the capability of all the fuses out there and that will take care of any hard shorts you might encounter

and according to what I have read these batteries should work just fine so here are my questions:

Do I need battery fuses?
Do I need a fuse if I use a evod kick?
Are there warning signs, like the mod gets hot, if the batteries are being pushed?
Should I toss these and get something else? (if yes please state recommendations)
Other than putting batteries in upside down are there any other "warnings" when using a mechanical mod?
What kind of vaping time can I expect from these batteries?

If you use a kick, you don't need a fuse as the kick will do that job. The batteries will heat up when they are pushed past their max amp limits, but the fuse or the kick will 'kick in' before that happens. However, should you notice a battery heating up stop vaping. That's a sure sign something is wrong.

The only other thing I would caution you about using a mech mod is that there is nothing in the system that will stop you from over discharging a battery. I can tell when my batts get low by the reduction in vape performance. When I first started using these devices I used to check the battery a lot with a digital multimeter to see what the battery voltage was. Now I can usually tell when they get to around 3.6 to 3.7 volts and that's when I put in a fresh batt.

I'm not going to comment on vape time because there are a lot of variables in that. You'll see how it goes for you. Hope this helps

 

[amesenbrink]

Is it easy to tell when the batteries are dry? I've read warnings about over discharging, is that something that is obvious or do you have to pay attention?

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

 

[Ryedan]

A kick will limit the voltage / amperage, but not protect you from a short circuit that bypasses the kick (not likely but possible)

A very good point Stosh . On the other hand, the same is true for this kind of hard short in a regulated device. IMO the only defense against this is to react quickly to any heat buildup in the mod at any time. The good thing is this does not happen often!

 

[Ryedan]

Is it easy to tell when the batteries are dry? I've read warnings about over discharging, is that something that is obvious or do you have to pay attention?

I can tell you from experience that you have to always pay attention to this. It seems obvious and that it would be really easy to tell how discharged your batteries are, but I just took a battery out and it measured 2.5 volts. As I said, I try to catch them at 3.6 - 3.7V. And I've been using mech mods for almost a year now.

You have to stay vigilant. A DMM is for me a necessity and using it regularly is a really good habit to get into.