Mechanical Mods and "standard" Output Coils. HELP

[Big J All Day]

So I'll try to keep it in context.... I am a tank vaper, Ie: Protank II, DCC, not a rebuilder of coil heads, but a replacer, so my OHMs are 1.8 to 2.4, running my twist at 3.7 - 4.1ish volts. Today I threw my dual coil carto tank on a Titan mech mod and had a way more satisfying vape with a thicker cloud than on my setup. My question is how is that possible if mechs can only push what power the battery can put out (3.7 volts)? My twist puts out the exact same voltage with consistency. No drop off, when it's dead it stops working. I did the same with a Provari Mini at 3.7 and got the same result as with the Titan, but I don't get it. 3.7 volts is 3.7 volts. I see ppl using VV mods with high voltage/wattage and kicked mechs without RBAs, so how are they not burning up coils or taking burn hits? Please advise with the condition that I am not wanting to rebuild or start using RBAs, nor will I be rebuilding my Protank and Vivi heads, its not a question on how to manipulate my setups. Also, I would like to buy a k-100 or Legacy, but if my choice to be a "tanker" is a bad idea for mechanical mods, please tell me. Big Thanks in advance!

 

[Ryedan]

The difference in output from a electronic device vs a mechanical is the electronic is putting out current in pulses. The Chinese mods are typically around 33 Hz and the Provari is around 800. I don't know if this will cause the difference you are experiencing, but it is a difference that I know of.

So, if you want to go with a mech you now know how it vapes with your cartos. BTW, if you have not yet done so, let the battery run down to around 3.6 V and see how that goes. BTW, you should check the voltage as it runs down until you get a feel for how the voltage drop affects the vape. You never want to take a battery below about 3.0 V. In the end, if you like the vape, it's a good choice for you. There is no right or wrong here

 

[NicoHolic]

Unloaded voltage isn't what you get when you press the fire button. Battery voltage drops under load, typically more so with small batteries than larger batteries. Then you have the resistance and voltage drop of the device itself. You can get one of those in-line volt meters that show what's being fed to the coil, but they don't tell you how much of the loss (decrease from unloaded voltage) is due to device resistance and how much is due to battery internal resistance. They're safer for amateurs to use than trying to put meter leads on battery terminals.

 

[AttyPops]

^^^ That.

Another way to say it: as amps suffer, voltage drops. So if a coil is amp starved (often the case with dual coils and non-mechs) the effective voltage drops. It depends on the device limits.

 

[tj99959]

We were using 1.7-2 ohm cartos on mechanicals long before there were VV or regulated APV's. Dual coils have always worked better on a mechanical IMO. In fact there is a 1.7 carto on one of my mechanical mods right now, and it's a great vape. So your observation doesn't surprise me at all. During Bogegate when the clearos became the heads of choice many of us were using novas and the like on our mechanicals.

There is nothing wrong with not wanting to get involved with rebuildables, and at least for now, there are plenty of ways to get a great vape without them. I started playing with RBA's only because I thought it prudent to learn how to use them incase the feds decided to mess with us again.

 

[Oomee]

Volts are not power .
Watts is the unit of power , there is your confusion .

Same Volts for both devices in question , but the mech mod can output more current(Amps) and thus more power(Watts) .
Although a VW can control the output , it has an upper limit defined by what the silicon can handle , mechs are limited by the battery specifications only (in theory!) .