So...I really wanted an Olive Drab Reo so I did some research and decided to paint my tumbled raw with Plastidip as it seemed pretty durable (I mean...hey...they paint cars with it right?).
I ordered a can of their green camo Plastidip from DipYourCar.com and commenced to sprayin'.
Per my research I took my Reo apart, masked off the innards and used some old carto filler to plug the button hole. I washed it down good with their special cleaner and started spraying. I did three light coats and then three heavy coats with an hour between each coat.
I let it sit for six hours and then threw a heat lamp on it for two days, removed the heat, and then let it sit another day before I put it back together. The end result was pretty impressive as it looks great and the rubber texture is very nice.
However, I'm not sure I'd recommend going this route. I had a heckuva time cleaning the door grooves (and the door itself) after painting. I used an X-acto and the paint just wanted to stretch instead of splitting along the blade...I think I removed as much aluminum as I did paint. I shoulda masked those areas off for sure.
Also, the rubber texture picks up dirt and other detritus like crazy. It cleans very easily but it also gets dirty very easily.
In addition, I'm not sure how sturdy it's going to be. The paint has already started to split at the bottom corners closest to the door. I figured those would be weak spots so I made sure they had plenty of Plastidip on them but to no avail (Plastidip shrinks as it cures). The rest of it still looks great though. I'm not sure if a few coats of flat clear coat on it would help or not. I may try to touch up those areas and then clear coat it to see if that helps.
I have an old WW2 era Marine EGA collar device on the way (can't verify the WW2 claim but it's definitely pre 1950...no anchor ropes) that I wanted to epoxy to the front of it (trust me...it will look awesome!) but now I'm not too sure I want to unless I can get a durable paint on it.
Rob, I will give you my first born if you come out with an Olive Drab Reo (which means, of course, that you would have to pay her college tuition...so...maybe not such a bargain).
Anyway, I took some pics. It looks much better in the daylight but these didn't turn out too bad. I've brassed both my RM2s so you can ogle that as well (those turned out splendidly). I have a brass bullet drip tip that looks great too but I'll save that for if/when I get the EGA mounted.
Bonus question for those that bothered to read this far: Sgt. Stryker was a character in what movie? (Title and actor if you like).
The flash made the paint look greyish (or grayish for our UK brethren) but I like how the picture turned out...this is his war face.
I ordered a can of their green camo Plastidip from DipYourCar.com and commenced to sprayin'.
Per my research I took my Reo apart, masked off the innards and used some old carto filler to plug the button hole. I washed it down good with their special cleaner and started spraying. I did three light coats and then three heavy coats with an hour between each coat.
I let it sit for six hours and then threw a heat lamp on it for two days, removed the heat, and then let it sit another day before I put it back together. The end result was pretty impressive as it looks great and the rubber texture is very nice.
However, I'm not sure I'd recommend going this route. I had a heckuva time cleaning the door grooves (and the door itself) after painting. I used an X-acto and the paint just wanted to stretch instead of splitting along the blade...I think I removed as much aluminum as I did paint. I shoulda masked those areas off for sure.
Also, the rubber texture picks up dirt and other detritus like crazy. It cleans very easily but it also gets dirty very easily.
In addition, I'm not sure how sturdy it's going to be. The paint has already started to split at the bottom corners closest to the door. I figured those would be weak spots so I made sure they had plenty of Plastidip on them but to no avail (Plastidip shrinks as it cures). The rest of it still looks great though. I'm not sure if a few coats of flat clear coat on it would help or not. I may try to touch up those areas and then clear coat it to see if that helps.
I have an old WW2 era Marine EGA collar device on the way (can't verify the WW2 claim but it's definitely pre 1950...no anchor ropes) that I wanted to epoxy to the front of it (trust me...it will look awesome!) but now I'm not too sure I want to unless I can get a durable paint on it.
Rob, I will give you my first born if you come out with an Olive Drab Reo (which means, of course, that you would have to pay her college tuition...so...maybe not such a bargain).
Anyway, I took some pics. It looks much better in the daylight but these didn't turn out too bad. I've brassed both my RM2s so you can ogle that as well (those turned out splendidly). I have a brass bullet drip tip that looks great too but I'll save that for if/when I get the EGA mounted.
Bonus question for those that bothered to read this far: Sgt. Stryker was a character in what movie? (Title and actor if you like).
The flash made the paint look greyish (or grayish for our UK brethren) but I like how the picture turned out...this is his war face.
My plan worked...muhahahahaha!
