NEW Youde UDT V16 Stainless Mechanical Low Voltage Drop Can Handle Resistances as Low as 0.06ohms!

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dannoman

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Youde UDT V16 Stainless Mechanical Low Voltage Drop
$64.95

The newest from Youde Technology is a stellar full mechanical mod made of food grade pure 304 stainless steel and can work with resistances as low as 0.06 ohms with very low voltage drop. Introducing the Youde UDT V16 Mechanical mod.

  • The Youde UDT V16 can telescope to take 18350, 18500 and 18650 batteries. Very attractive minimalist design.
  • 5-9 AMPS
  • 3.7-7.4v (7.4 is achieved if you stack 2 18350 batteries)
  • Ultra Low Resistance down to 0.06 ohms
  • Food Grade 304 Stainless, no finger printing
  • Adjustable center pin/battery contact with Phillips screw driver
  • Youde logo stamp etched at the base with individual serial numbers.
  • Height: 89mm; 25mm Wide
  • Comfortable top side button firing made of the same stainless - the button design provides virtually no voltage drop and is the most advanced low voltage drop mechanics in the entire Youde line.
  • Attractive Youde packaging.


 
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cadenceq

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Dec 2, 2009
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I just received one of these, and it is definitely a gorgeous mod. I was wondering if there had been any other reports of the button being extremely difficult to press. I have to push the button VERY (painfully) hard to get it to fire and the slightest reduction in pressure will cause it to stop. I'm just not sure if it's poor button design, or if the one I got is faulty.
 

woody55

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I just received one of these, and it is definitely a gorgeous mod. I was wondering if there had been any other reports of the button being extremely difficult to press. I have to push the button VERY (painfully) hard to get it to fire and the slightest reduction in pressure will cause it to stop. I'm just not sure if it's poor button design, or if the one I got is faulty.

Have not had any reports but Yes it has a stiff button, mine was very stiff also but has gotten better as it has broken in.
 

spivey

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Need more info too, please. Noticed Youde took it off their website.

I'm not surprised. I went ahead and ordered it, and I did use it for awhile. The switch was stiff but I was able to disassemble it and loosen it up some. The switch design is unique; I had never seen one done like this but it's also probably why it ultimately failed. On the inside there is a plastic 'nub' that keeps 2 contact points open. When you press the button it pushes a brass 'arm' down until it connects with the battery-side contact. When you release the button a small spring and the plastic 'nub' push the arm back up.

Eventually the 'nub' was no longer able to keep the brass arm up, so it was constantly firing by itself.
 

rdsok

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Info on whether or not it's worth buying. Saw it on ebay for sale and wanted to know if it was worth buying. In the market for a side fire mech. Think I will skip the v16. Thanks to post above for steering me clear.

Of course... do as you think best but I wouldn't go by a single post... no matter how good ( or bad ) a device is there is always going to be one bad one somewhere. In addition, with the issue of clones and fakes and not knowing where that user got their's... it's even tough going by a lot of posts by users sometimes.
 

spivey

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This was requested, so I decided to post it here in case anyone else is interested.

1. Take the button off, it's just screwed on.
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2. Using a pair of long needle-nose pliers (or 2 screw drivers that fit) unscrew the switch assembly from the housing.
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3. Be careful. While unscrewing it this little plastic circle sits directly below the button, and inside is a spring. The first time I was doing this as soon as that plastic circle passed by the button opening it flew out.
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4. Switch assembly removed
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5. I don't know of the right way to do this next step, but I took a small flat head screw driver and worked out the little plastic circle. Again watch out for the spring.
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spivey

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6. Underneath the plastic circle and spring is another plastic piece that extends up through the switch housing. This is what is supposed to keep the button from firing on its own. Mine broke the first time I took all this apart, so I replaced it with a piece of toothpick.
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7. Now comes a bit of a guessing game. You need to determine which side of the switch was facing the battery, and which side was facing the atty connection. The round metal disc on the outside of the assembly should have been facing the atty connection, so flip the assembly and slowing wiggle the entire metal rod that has the flathead screw in it out.
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8. Assembly with one metal rod removed
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9. Here's another step that I may not have right, but I took a flat head screw driver and used it as a lever to work the button housing out. Be careful here to make sure you press against the bottom of the button, and not the brass connecting arm on the inside.
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spivey

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10. Once the button housing is high enough take a pair of pliers or similiar to pull it free of the switch housing.
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11. Inside the switch assembly. The brass arm on mine was longer but finally snapped from me adjusting it to much.
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Cetainly a new way to go about it. I've never seen one done like this, and it was neat to see something other than the old Puresmoker Protege way of doing a top button mechanical.

As they say in the movies, assembly is the reverse of dissassembly.
 
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