Protank 2 rebuild now a burnt taste .

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Isx15man

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Jun 20, 2014
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I watched Rip Tripper rebuild a protank and worked well on the video. I bought some 28 gauge and a guy from the vape shop near me gave me some cotton. I made the coil and it's resistance was 1.5 ohms and used cotton instead of wick like he did on the video. I rebuilt it 3 times figuring that it was something I did to make it have a burnt taste. Saturated the cotton and filled up the tank and even let it sit 10 mins to saturate the cotton more figuring that I maybe didn't get the cotton saturated enough and still have a burnt cotton taste that's nasty. I was trying it from 8-12 watts on my VTR .i noticed some othe people have this issue and they left comments below the video.Any ideas?

Thanks in advance!
 

steved5600

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What kind of cotton. You should have used organic unbleached if not you wasted your money IMO. Get some 2.5mm ekowool wick that is what I rebuild my heads with also you need to get some NR-R-NR wire it has no/low resistance leads that will not get hot and burn the insulator which is rubber which my be some of the bad taste you are having. Here is where i get mine. https://www.fasttech.com/products/1411/10004596/1680305 you can get it in lower and higher resistance. The dark wire you see in the middle is the resistance part that you put around the wick. 28ga wire is to big a wire for those heads. I have been rebuilding those and the pt3 and other heads for a long time so i have tried it all.
 

steved5600

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Notice how restrained i was and did not bad mouth Rip on this. Took some willpower too. LOL He does some stuff that is not all that great IME. Some are good don't get me wrong but he does not know it all. The advantage of ekowool over cotton is you don't have to worry about dry hits or dry burns. They will last a lot longer with a sightly worse wicking than cotton but it's worth it IMO.
 

ENAUD

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It's white and didn't see any burnt spots on it.
With the older style grommet, ( solid white) I could almost always taste the burnt grommet flavor when I tried to rebuild these coils. The newer grommets are clearish white, and don't seem to do this. You might also try a thinner wire. For me I've had better luck with 32ga or 30ga. For wick, My go to is "Peaches & Cream" cotton yarn ( fits the stock coils perfectly, no leaks, no gurgles), boiled in distilled water first and dried. I started just pulling out the silica, dry burn & rinse, and just re-wick the stock coils now, and replace the wick at every fill. With a little practice it goes much quicker than you'd think, and I haven't tossed a coil in weeks.

P.S. Don't give up, it took me a bunch of fiddling with these things to get the hang of it, in the end it paid off for me flavor, and cost wise. I keep about ten re-conditioned coils on my bench and can just grab a fresh one each fill, and re-wick them later at my convenience.
 
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crxess

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No time for Rip, but that's another story.

Your Burning wick Repeated failures is the same thing over and over. To much Cotton.
Repeat after me -Cotton SWELLS - Cotton SWELLS - Cotton SWELLS

Did I mention.............. Cotton swells? You have 2 very small openings for e-liquid transfer. You need good transfer to keep the Cotton WET.

You need to almost see an open gap in the channels when assembled to allow for cotton to expand (SWELL)
Keep your Power Down to 8w and leave it there until you get the wicking working. then adjust as desired. You cannot tell if you are making progress if you keep making power changes.

Note: Your through wick cotton needs to be barely snug. Fairly easy to slip back and forth.

Good Luck.
 

bussdriver

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Try Enaud's suggestion with the yarn. My method is close to his. Wind the coil with 30 ga. around a 5/64" drill bit (2 mm). Wind them close, as a microcoil. To put the coil in the head, slip a 1/16" bit through the coil to hold it while you assemble the bottom insulator and pin, then remove the bit. Wet the end of a 2" piece of yard, roll it between your fingers to make it smaller, and simply thread it through the head/coil/head like threading a needle. Install the top chimney and cut the excess. Virtually every single build is near perfect; no leaks or gurgles, and great wicking. No need for those silly dead wicks on top to stop it from leaking.

On another note, 12 watts is probably gonna be the maximum you'll ever want. There's just not enough room down in those little heads to be generating a whole lot of heat. I can do 12 watts okay, but I have to hit that thing extra hard and fast to keep enough airflow going.
 
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