Sigelei 100w Plus Concerns/Problems

[BrockD]

Hi everyone, new to ECF actually posting, but been a long time lurker, I felt with most things I was able to figure out myself and through a little research from here or just google in general, so heres the situation.

I ordered a (gold) sigelei 100W Plus from this website --> Sigelei 100W Plus Box Mod | Vapor Seller
It says on the website with the Segelei logo that they are a "U.S.A. Authorized dealer" (of Sigelei products) So this made me feel pretty comfortably, I mean with copyright laws and stuff today in 2015, I would imagine that it would be pretty hard to operate a website with something like this on it, but I could be wrong.

I received my Sigelei today about 6 hours ago (7/16) super excited, started charging my batteries to get it ready, as they came on the same day. I'm running it with 2 Aspire super high drain 18650s, charged them up all the way on my Pila charger until the lights turned green, which indicates they are 100% charged, took them off the charger and then I plopped them into the sigelei and fired it up, the battery reader on the display screen on the mod read 44%. I ordered 4 Aspire batteries so I would have no downtime when they needed to be charged, and when I put the original 2 in the mod i put the other 2 on the charger.

After it read 44% I removed them, went and did a couple things (while the 2nd set of batteries was charging) came back, and I put the other (2nd set) batteries into the sigelei, knowing they weren't fully charged, just to check the reading on the mod, it read 44%. I put the first set of batteries back on the charger and let them charge for 2-3 hours more put them back into the Sigelei and it read 44%. This fixed itself as i watched it change from 44% to 100% literally while I was watching, ok sounds good.

This whole ordeal with the batteries and what not just made me kind of skeptical, so I went through the motions to verify the authenticity of my mod. There is no gray code scratch off paper that came with my mod to input it into the sigelei website, which has been the traditional way (to my understanding) to verify other sigelei products. I also did some research about sigelei clones and found another post on ECF about sigelei clones, in which the case that guy also was in the same situation that I am, didn't receive a gray scratch off code. (post i read this on) sigelei 100w plus help/posable clone? | E-Cigarette Forum

I did however receive a 90 day warranty card ( no scratch off numbered thing ) from "Asmodus Distribution" and I received a Siegelei 100w Plus user manual. I called the number inside the sigelei user manual, which ended up being Asmodus, which is the US-Based 3rd party firm that handles sigelei warranties. I asked them for help authenticating the product, this is where things get a little sketchy to me. I explained to them the battery situation and asked them for help w/ verification. They asked me to remove the battery cover from the back and see if there was a 4 digit number on the left magnet, I said yes, they asked if the letter/number combination, being 1 letter and 3 numbers if the 1 letter was at the beginning or the end, I said beginning and read them the entire code. They said that was how it was supposed to be, but that doesn't really help with authenticity verification, I mean, clone makers I'm sure are decent enough at it to put things in the proper order, sometimes anyway. So, the guy said he would call Sigelei, Great right?

--> Guy calls sigele, i wait about 15 minutes, and this was his response, and I'm not mistyping anything and I didn't get the wrong impression or understand him correctly, I had him repeat it and questioned it at least 3 times. Summed up the guy pretty much said this

"Sigelei said that as long as the number is in front, followed by 3 digits that it is authentic and that if anyone made a clone or a counterfeit with the number in the front like they do, it would immediately pop up into their system" System being, strictly from my assumption, some computerized system, in China, where Sigelei is.

I asked the guy to hear me out and if he could explain to me in my theoretical situation how this would work, what i asked him was according to what sigelei said, "If you had a guy, or a group of people making Sigelei clones in a warehouse in Dallas TX when they printed the sigelei serial number (a-z###) on a magnet in the back of a (clone) sigelei mod, how is it technologically possible that when they physically place 4 digits in the proper spot, how that gets noticed by the Sigelei 'system'" The answered that me and the guy came to @ Asmodus is, it's not possible, in fact quite the contrary, we agreed that was impossible, and clones could be sold with the proper serial numbers and no verification. To be honest, I think I could clean this serial number on mine off with some sneaker cleaner and a scrub and put another one on if I put my mind to it, it wouldn't be that hard.

All of this time on the phone w/ Asmodus just netted me 1 bit of information, there is no way to verify that a 100W Sigelei plus is authentic, he did tell me that I could "e-mail sigelei and request authentication with the serial number, but they are chinese and there will be a language barrier probably and they take a long time to get back to you"

My other problem is, when I turn my Sigelei 100w up to 90W and vape, I guess it's needed info i'm using an Atlantis 2 Mega, the tip which i inhale from on the atlantis gets extremely hot very quickly but only when i inhale, it actually burned my lip earlier when I inhaled, blistered it.

I went from a Provari 2 to Sigelei 100w, thats pertenent information too, but I dont think any human could inhale from my sigelei to be honest, not @ 90 watts. Vaping @ 75 Watts with the extra air hole filters it still gets pretty hot. Is this normal?

I know this is a wall of text, I really appreciate all of you guys input, and I appreciate the time that everyone takes to read this and help me out. I need to figure this out to see if i'm going to send the Sigelei back, or what i'm going to do

 

[Katmar]

Hi Brock and welcome to the forum. Gonna bump you up for an answer. Good luck to you...

 

[Bunnykiller]

ever try touching a 100W lite bulb when its on? yes 90W will get things very hot in short order... probably why most people who vape over 75W take very short quick hits off the atty... my IPV4 makes the atty hot even at 40W...
one of the ideas of vaping at 75+W is to have instant hi powered heat for vaporizing the juice... no need to take 3+ seconds draws off of it.

 

[Bunnykiller]

if your type of mod has been cloned, you can find it on Fasttech... Ive never seen a clone of the Sig 100W on Fasttech.

 

[coolerat]

Provari's are toy mods. Anything that would work on a P-Thingy would work very poorly indeed at 100w.

I have the 100 Plus. I like it. I shouldn't be a clone but I guess it could be. It works so I don't actually care.

High warts require special coil building to not be hot. And lots and lots of airflow. The air cools the coils. I also prefer RDA's that have cooling fins on top, and as of later today, on top and bottom when I get it built. I like a cooler vape so I'm always on the hunt for more cooling.

I get my "special" coils built by my son so I'm afraid I can't comment on how to build them. But those coils at 100w are very cool and pleasent.

I build my high wattage coils plain jane style out of heavy wire. Currently 24ga but have some 22 in the round tuit pile. These thick wire require alot of power to get a fast cool puff. But for me not a 100. Generally around 60-70 provides me a good vape with 24ga at .3-4Ω.

Those coils from my son are actually higher Ω's but with a pound of metal that take the full 100 with ease.

 

[suprtrkr]

I can't help you with verifying your Siggie, but I will also say I don't know of any clones. Asmodus is moderately legit; as much as anything can be does business with China. I just bought an Asmodus branded Snow Wolf 200W TC machine. It's supposed to be a trial run for the TC chip for the TC Sigs now coming out. I'm not sure if it has a number on the magnet-- it's at home-- but it works just fine and I didn't question the authenticity. If the battery issue has corrected itself, I wouldn't worry about it. Sometimes electronics does funny stuff right out of the box and fixes itself once it gets up to speed.

 

[KEN47]

At 90 watts the atlantis will probably get very hot. Im pretty sure thats way over the recommended wattage for that tank and also imo i think anything over 70 is overkill anyway. As for the authenticity of your mod why not send the email to segelei and just wait on the answer. As long as your mod is working you can wait a little bit for an answer. Good luck with the issues hope this helped!

 

[Hans Wermhat]

I have the iPV4. I only have one build that can take the full 100W. It's a pair of claptons, 24 wrapped with 32, 1/4" ID, 6 wraps, ohms out at I think 0.24. The things are HUGE and they need at least 75-80W just to get up to temp in an airy RDA, but at 100W they are too hot. Most stock coils don't need and can't take 100W, even if they say they do on the box. Just turn down the wattage to a comfortable level an enjoy.

 

[nyiddle]

The standard Atlantis 2 coils will be cooking juice pretty freaking hot at anything above 50W (assuming they're the .5 ohm coils). It's no wonder your drip tip gets insanely hot after a few puffs. High wattage will do that.

In regards to the clone matter, you'd be one of the first people on the whole Internet to have a Sigelei clone. Sigelei's making them so cheap, and they're already a China-based company, I don't think people are cloning them (or ever will clone them). Additionally, I don't think there has ever been a China-made mod that has been cloned in the United States. That doesn't make any sense, as parts/materials/labor/etc. is FAR more expensive state-side than overseas.

If you want to be vaping at high wattages, 50W+, you're going to need to get something rebuildable. I don't know of any tanks with pre-built heads that are capable of handling wattages as high as 75+ (though I think the Starre has .2 ohm heads, which might be fine at that high wattage).

Lastly, do you have a DMM? This would be a way of measuring the voltage of your batteries sort of "independent" of the Sigelei. Sigelei's, in my experience, tend to have slightly wonky battery indicators. For example, when my Sig150 gets to 50% it's time to charge the batteries. It puts them at about 3.5/3.4V which is about the lowest I want to discharge my batteries. Draining them down to 10% can leave them with as little as 2.8V, which is just too low for comfort for me.

Your batteries are married, right? They've been put through the same number of charge cycles, been used only paired in the Sigelei?

 

[Topwater Elvis]

I'd bet your problems are caused by the batteries.
The 4 I had were toast after about a dozen recharge cycles used at +/- 14.8a ~ 21.2a cycled down to 3.6v.
IMO, the worst batteries I've used, my almost 3 year old 1600mah AW's out performed the new aspire's.

Try 2 new decent batteries - Samsung 25R, LGHE2, VTC4 or something of equal quality.

The Atlantis2 will be a scorching hot vape at the power levels you're talking about, try 50w or less.

 

[Tmg666]

With the sigelei, turn the mod off. Then back on, and hit the fire button when its unlocked. Should update your settings like ohm/battery level/volt ect.

 

[suprtrkr]

Update: My Snow Wolf has a alphanumeric SN on the lower magnet inside the door. 1 letter followed by 3 numbers. The letter is in caps.

 

[dcfluegel]

two suggestions - first, get better batteries - I stick with sony vtc4, samsung 25r, lg he4 pretty much exclusively... i am using samsung 25r's in my sig 100w+ and have had no issues there at all... second, check your wattage - I run an atlantis 2 mega on that same sig 100w+ at around 60w - and that, in my experience is plenty for me - good, warm flavorful vape - I think you may be WAY overdoing the wattage there... just because it goes to 100w doesn't mean you should run it at 100w (from my understanding/ experience, that capacity for extra wattage gives you safer/ more reliable performance at more reasonable wattages...) though your mileage may vary

 

[Completely Average]

Let me run through a couple of things here really quick.

#1. It is unlikely that you got a cloned mod. It sounds like the real thing to me.

#2. NEVER take your batteries off the charger and immediately throw them in the mod and try to use them. ALWAYS give your batteries some time to rest after charging has been completed. Charging will cause some heating in the battery as well as some chemical changes and they need time to cool down before they are used. Chances are your batteries being mis-read by the mod was due to a lack of cool-down time after charging.

#3. Subohm tanks get hot, and the higher wattage you run them the hotter they get. In your case with the Atlantis V2 coils have a recommended wattage range of 20-30W (0.5ohm coil) 40-50W (1ohm) 70-80W (0.3ohm). 90W on any Atlantis V2 coil is beyond the recommended wattage and will produce extremely high temperatures.



The batteries you have should be fine for your uses. I don't think there is anything specifically wrong with the batteries other than you simply tried to use them too quickly after charging them. Remember to give them some time to rest after charging and you shouldn't have any more problems.

 

[Completely Average]

two suggestions - first, get better batteries - I stick with sony vtc4, samsung 25r, lg he4 pretty much exclusively...

Based on the testing done by Mooch the Aspire batteries match the VTC4 and exceed the Samsung 25R at 20A. They should not be considered anything higher than 20A batteries though, the 40A claim is clearly a pulse rating like Efest does with their batteries. But at 20A they appear to be very good performing batteries.

Aspire 1800mAh 18650 Bench (Re)Test Results....beats the 25R, equals the VTC4 | E-Cigarette Forum

 

[dcfluegel]

Based on the testing done by Mooch the Aspire batteries match the VTC4 and exceed the Samsung 25R at 20A. They should not be considered anything higher than 20A batteries though, the 40A claim is clearly a pulse rating like Efest does with their batteries. But at 20A they appear to be very good performing batteries.

Aspire 1800mAh 18650 Bench (Re)Test Results....beats the 25R, equals the VTC4 | E-Cigarette Forum

good to know and thanks for the heads up - had not checked bench ratings on the Aspires, I have just stuck with what I know to be safe and reliable - good info, though - thanks!

 

[roxynoodle]

I just got a new 100W+ as well, and it also showed the 44% when I first put in the batteries. I don't remember exactly what I did after that. I think it went to 100% after I put on the atty and fired it. I don't remember either of my older two doing that, but I know I read a post here about someone else's doing that new out of the box, so I didn't freak out. I just waited to see if it reset, and it did.

 

[BrockD]

Alright, Thanks everyone for your input.

I guess I left out some relevant information, Nautilus has discontinued the .5 ohm coils, i'm 99% sure about this as i've been told that by vendors directly (I called because the .5 coils were out of stock, and thats what they said, appeared it was like that across the board, but i could be wrong) I am using .3 ohm coils.

Also, I'm not running it @ 90w, i was running it about 75w a/ the extra air flow hole on the tip opened, but i'm going to go down to 60 and test it out, but my vape seems not very flavorful whatsoever, the taste from my provari is far superior, so maybe i'm still missing something i haven't tweaked properly.

Once again, thank you guys for all the welcomes and all your inputs.

 

[opticruby]

Hello @BrockD. Welcome to the forum.

My sigelei 150 watt does the 44% battery thing on fresh 100% charged batterys until I hold the fire button for a second or two then everything will update and give me the 100% battery reading. Its nothing to worry about I've heard loads of peoples doing the same thing.

 

[Topwater Elvis]

Nautilus?

Aspire hasn't discontinued .5 replacement heads for the Atlantis.
Are you properly priming new/unused heads before pressing the fire button?
If not you're probably scorching the wicking material which will reduce wicking ability. Reduced wicking ability effects flavor too.
Always start off a new head at a low power and work your way up to prevent scorching / burning.

Are you using authentic Aspire replacement heads verified via scratch off security code on the box entered into the verification area of their site?
Knock off / counterfeit heads are as common as authentic.

75w on a .3 head is going to be fairly hot and could be too hot for the flavorings in your juice.

I'd suggest priming a new head and start off around 20w and adjust power up taking a vape or three on each setting until you find what you like.
Don't get hung up on the numbers it's all about what tastes best to each individual.