Snow Wolf 200w With Temp Control

Status
Not open for further replies.

BillLee3

Full Member
Jul 4, 2015
22
15
57
I'm thinking that my surging problem was exactly as has been discussed on this page. Had a KangerTech rta setup at 0.09 ohms set at 410 F and 30-40W. Which is where I was running it on an ipv4 except in J. It's still strange that it worked well until it went into standby, but maybe if I just set it down around 20W it'll stop (it does stop but I haven't let it go into standby mode yet).

A related question. I put the Kanger tank on a bit earlier today, set it as at new atomizer and it was pulsing very badly. So, I turned off the unit by clicking it five times and then turned it back on by clicking it once and then 5 more times to unlock. At that point the resistance read 0.12 ohms. Figured that the unit was still slightly warm and tried to vape. It immediately burnt the cotton as if it was using the 1.2 ohm as the base reading and letting it go way to high. Or maybe the 30W I had it set on burnt the cotton instantly? Either way, do you have to do anything special to turn the unit on and off and have it retain the correct base ohms?
 

Completely Average

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Jan 21, 2014
3,997
5,156
Suburbs of Dallas
I'm thinking that my surging problem was exactly as has been discussed on this page. Had a KangerTech RTA setup at 0.09 ohms set at 410 F and 30-40W. Which is where I was running it on an IPV4 except in J. It's still strange that it worked well until it went into standby, but maybe if I just set it down around 20W it'll stop (it does stop but I haven't let it go into standby mode yet).

Turn the temperature up to 440F-460F and lower the watts to around 20-25W.

Then, if it starts pulsing it's because you're running into wicking problems and the wick is drying out during the hit.


A related question. I put the Kanger Tank on a bit earlier today, set it as at new atomizer and it was pulsing very badly. So, I turned off the unit by clicking it five times and then turned it back on by clicking it once and then 5 more times to unlock. At that point the resistance read 0.12 ohms. Figured that the unit was still slightly warm and tried to vape. It immediately burnt the cotton as if it was using the 1.2 ohm as the base reading and letting it go way to high. Or maybe the 30W I had it set on burnt the cotton instantly? Either way, do you have to do anything special to turn the unit on and off and have it retain the correct base ohms?

I've had problems with my Kanger Subtank working properly on the mod. I've still got a kanthal coil in mine, but for some reason the SnowWolf wants to revert back to temperature control mode with the Subtank on it. It doesn't happen with any of my other tanks, only the Subtank.

I'm beginning to wonder if there isn't something about the way the Subtank is put together that causes incorrect resistance readings resulting in improper power delivery. I wouldn't think 30W would be a problem, but you may want to try backing it down to 23-25W and see if that has any changes. I know that with the kanthal coil my subtank gives nothing but burnt hits over 25W on my SnowWolf. I also know of people who have had nothing but problems with the Subtank and nickel coils on DNA40 devices as well, so it's not a problem that's limited to the SnowWolf. It seems to be a problem specific to the Subtank.

Another thing to note here is that I've found that the SnowWolf is delivering more power to the atty than my Clouper 30W box mod at the same setting. I've tried 5 different tanks on both and I have to consistently set the SnowWolf 3W-4W lower than my Cloupor to get the same results. For example, I run my Subtank at 28.5W on my Cloupor, but anything over 25W on my SnowWolf results in burnt hits. My Nautilus with kanthal coils works fine on my Cloupor at 19W but I have to back it down to 15W on my SnowWolf. I haven't metered both devices to find out which one is off, I've always assumed it's just the cheap Cloupor saying it's higher wattage than it's delivering to the atty, but it may be that the SnowWolf is really delivering 3-4W more than it says.
 

Smeef

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Mar 30, 2015
216
182
Williamsport, PA
Not sure if this has been covered or if it's similar to BillLee's issue, but I've noticed with my Snow Wolf while using the Ni200 Arctic coils, it's inconsistent. Vaping at 500* around 60W gives me a nice warm flavorful vape just the way I prefer. If I let the mod go into sleep, after waking it, the vape is no where near as warm or flavorful. It feels "weak". Almost like it's set at more like 350*/40W. I love this mod, but there is eithe something going on with the chip, or the Arctic coils.
 

Tat2man

Full Member
Jun 26, 2015
25
13
57
Warner Robins Georgia
Not sure if this has been covered or if it's similar to BillLee's issue, but I've noticed with my Snow Wolf while using the Ni200 Arctic coils, it's inconsistent. Vaping at 500* around 60W gives me a nice warm flavorful vape just the way I prefer. If I let the mod go into sleep, after waking it, the vape is no where near as warm or flavorful. It feels "weak". Almost like it's set at more like 350*/40W. I love this mod, but there is eithe something going on with the chip, or the Arctic coils.
The Snow Wold goes into standby and it does clock down till it recognizes that the Build is Nickle or Canthal or at least mine does that is why when I switch from my RBA Ni200 Build to my Tank Canthal build I always turn temp down to 212F cause it has to pick up the canthal build. I do not know why it does this and is a minor thing to me I have learned to deal with it already.. I still love mine and happy with the purchase and most of my friends with other temp mods is digging mine more than thier own and considering getting one. I am running an Velocity RBA with 0.07 Ni200 build it is my 1st NI200 build and I am loving the Temp control as I like a cooler Vape than a Hot one.
 

BillLee3

Full Member
Jul 4, 2015
22
15
57
Not sure if this has been covered or if it's similar to BillLee's issue, but I've noticed with my Snow Wolf while using the Ni200 Arctic coils, it's inconsistent. Vaping at 500* around 60W gives me a nice warm flavorful vape just the way I prefer. If I let the mod go into sleep, after waking it, the vape is no where near as warm or flavorful. It feels "weak". Almost like it's set at more like 350*/40W. I love this mod, but there is eithe something going on with the chip, or the Arctic coils.

I'm thinking the Snow Wolf's temperature control was an afterthought or they're using a chip that just isn't refined enough because it just seems too flaky.

I've also got an IPV4 and now have an iStick TC40W and both perform very consistently - although the IPV4 won't work with Atlantis or Nautilus coils if the temps are set too high because when the resistance goes above some level the mod reports a short; set the temp and/or wattage lower and it does sorta work. Maybe they'll fix it with a software update because the local shop owner's IPV3-Li works fine with the same coils.

Overall I think the Snow Wolf is the best looking mod I own and probably works great in Kanthal mode but I'm quite disappointed in it's performance in TC mode.
 

Smeef

Senior Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Mar 30, 2015
216
182
Williamsport, PA
The Snow Wold goes into standby and it does clock down till it recognizes that the Build is Nickle or Canthal or at least mine does that is why when I switch from my RBA Ni200 Build to my Tank Canthal build I always turn temp down to 212F cause it has to pick up the canthal build. I do not know why it does this and is a minor thing to me I have learned to deal with it already.. I still love mine and happy with the purchase and most of my friends with other temp mods is digging mine more than thier own and considering getting one. I am running an Velocity RBA with 0.07 Ni200 build it is my 1st NI200 build and I am loving the Temp control as I like a cooler Vape than a Hot one.

Yes mine will "determine" what type of coil is on it as well when I switch out attys. This is doing it with the same atty without it ever leaving the device. It seems if I take it off and put it back on and tell the mod it's a "new atomizer", it works better. I think the TC on this device is good and it has seemed to do what it's supposed to, but it also confuses itself I believe.
 

alicewonderland

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Apr 28, 2012
1,814
1,871
the 'limited edition' 200w snowwolf also has different color display.

le-snow-wolf-4.jpg
 

jseah

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Feb 16, 2015
4,112
19,429
Hudson Valley, NY, USA
In my experience with the Snow Wolf, locking the resistance isn't necessary. Of course, I've only used the Nautilus 2 with the nickel coils on it. I know that the Subtank Mini has a huge problem with the resistance wandering. Even with mods that does have the ability to lock the resistance, the resistance still wanders even when it is locked.
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread