Subtank mini RBA micro coils
- Thread starter Fady Ibrahim Guirguis
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actually the 0.5 ohm coil using the 26g kanthal was working fine yesterday with the battery reading 3.8 , this morning when I switched to a fresh battery I started to get the dry hit immediately .....don't know what's wrong , I'm back now to the mirco coil 24 g kanthal spaced the wraps a little bit , it's workin finr so far but consuming a lot of juice , I'll see after switching batteries what will be the output , but I feel that i will get the burnt taste again
, and by the way I'm not taking long drags 3-4 sec 5 occasionallyit's not I always make sure that I can see the juice channels ....I totally lost hope
Could be the mod is the problem? The aspire cf mod is giving too much power with the 0.5 ohm build ? But it was working fine with the occ coil and with the first RBA coil which came with the tank.
Oh subtank mini woes...I was ready to chuck mine across the room after the first weekend with it until I found the solution for wicking that works pefect for me. It was lots of trial and error, cuss words and walking away from it. but now that I have found the wicking technique that works for me this little tank is tops. I've had it down to .2ohm with no dry hits with max VG juice though the vape was super warm it still worked. keep wicking until you get it right...also having it on a regulated mod will help as you can dial down the wattage to compensate for bag wicking
Same here , but still can't find the best wicking method. What worked for you?
I build all my coils 2mm inside diam
wicking is very short, barely touches the deck and make sure its not too tight going through the coil.
saturate wick, use a piece of kanthal to move it away from juice channels and you should be golden...less wick is more in this thing
I'll take a pic later today...hell I'll do it now for you lol
wicking is very short, barely touches the deck and make sure its not too tight going through the coil.
saturate wick, use a piece of kanthal to move it away from juice channels and you should be golden...less wick is more in this thing
I'll take a pic later today...hell I'll do it now for you lol
Thank you so much
....truely appreciate it ....one last question what size of Kanthal you're using ?Thank you so much
pretty sure its 26g kanthal in here 5 wraps, 2mm inside diameter .5ohm coil (used the screwdriver that came with the STm as a jig to make the coil)
So to wrap things up , it's mostly wicking ( I've followed rip trippers video to build and wick the coil) and it's working so far , a little hint of burnt taste every now and then esp with long drags..... ?The subtank mini rba 0.5 om built can handle the high power of the aspire CF mod? Wich I assume it's up to 35 watts with fresh battery ? I don't have another mod to try ... PLease correct me if I'm wrong and give me your suggestions and recommendations ...I spent the entire day yesterday building and wicking
that was really annoying and frustrating..... thanks againAccording to specifications of the CF Mod, it should be producing approximately 35W on full charge (4.2V) as similar to mech mod. I have had difficulties in wicking the RBA initially but after many failed attempts, I've managed to find a wicking style of my own after watching videos from .... kickers and reading various build methods in this forum. As I do not have or use a mech mod (or similar mod), it is difficult for me to see where the issue is. On my IPV Mini using the RBA (0.5ohm) and my wicking style, I could go 30W (my maximum mod wattage) without dry hits.
If you are having burnt taste during long drags, some possible issues is:
(1) the juice is not drawing efficient enough causing your wick to dry out
(2) your wick (outside the coil) may not be dense enough to store ample juice for long drags.
The above are possibilities that I can think of...but I may be wrong.
If you wish to see my build and explanations, you can view the following: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/clearomizers/656860-subtank-rba-vs-occ-air-flow.html
If you are having burnt taste during long drags, some possible issues is:
(1) the juice is not drawing efficient enough causing your wick to dry out
(2) your wick (outside the coil) may not be dense enough to store ample juice for long drags.
The above are possibilities that I can think of...but I may be wrong.
If you wish to see my build and explanations, you can view the following: http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/clearomizers/656860-subtank-rba-vs-occ-air-flow.html
another question just popped up in my mind , can you use the pancake wicking method for 50/50 juices ?
It is possible that the pancake method may work as it has ample density on the tail end to whole juices. However, I'm not sure if that will restrict the airflow. Give it a try...although it may be somewhat frustrated to keep experimenting on wicking methods, once you perfected it...the rewards will be great...haha. So don't give up...
Yeah my next two trials will be the pancacke and .... kicker's method , as you said i think the key point is to maintain an ample desnity on the ends and don't block the juice channelsIt is possible that the pancake method may work as it has ample density on the tail end to whole juices. However, I'm not sure if that will restrict the airflow. Give it a try...although it may be somewhat frustrated to keep experimenting on wicking methods, once you perfected it...the rewards will be great...haha. So don't give up...
I vape .5ohm coil at 28watts with a maxVG juice with no dry hits etc...30watts and a long drag gets a tad burnt at the end. This is why vv/vw devices are so nice. A fresh battery on a mech I find is just a tad bit too rowdy to take a long haul and not burn a bit at the end.
I've totally failed , tried several builds on the screw driver coming with stm 26 g Kanthal 0.5 ohm different wicking and again burnt taste , back to the 24 g pre built micro coils which are by the way larger than 26 g around the screw driver with pancacke wicking same result
. I'm really fed up with the RBA section of this tank - Status
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