I had to buy a head replacement due to stripped threads. The replacement did not come with an o-ring below the positive button so I unsoldered the positive post, pulled it out of the head, installed a #60 o-ring, reinserted the post into the head, and re-soldered the positive lead to the post.
Should have been done after reassembly, right? Not with my luck. When I install a clearo and turn it on, it shows 0.0 ohms. I've taken it apart and put it back together I don't know how many times looking for the short. There's infinite resistance after I reassemble. It's not until I install a clearo that it shows 0 ohms. The o-ring is thick enough that there's no way the post is being pushed to the body when I install a device.
I wonder whether I damaged the circuit board in my struggle to remove the top cap. I ended up heating the body lightly with a baker's torch. I got it warm, not hot. The board shows no visible sign of heat. Vamo won't turn on unless I have a clearo or atty installed. I don't remember whether that's as it should be or not.
I'm about to give up. Anybody have any ideas what's causing this?
Should have been done after reassembly, right? Not with my luck. When I install a clearo and turn it on, it shows 0.0 ohms. I've taken it apart and put it back together I don't know how many times looking for the short. There's infinite resistance after I reassemble. It's not until I install a clearo that it shows 0 ohms. The o-ring is thick enough that there's no way the post is being pushed to the body when I install a device.
I wonder whether I damaged the circuit board in my struggle to remove the top cap. I ended up heating the body lightly with a baker's torch. I got it warm, not hot. The board shows no visible sign of heat. Vamo won't turn on unless I have a clearo or atty installed. I don't remember whether that's as it should be or not.
I'm about to give up. Anybody have any ideas what's causing this?