Vamo v3 printed circuit board loose

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djbeckett

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I use both flat top and button top batteries. The flat tops eventually don't make circuit board contact. I remove the tube, pull the board contact pin with needle nose pliers, it works. The board moves, it gets pushed up after a few battery changes.

This has got to be a common problem, I couldn't find that post.

I'm not forcing the batteries.
Not buying more batteries.
I'll continue with what I've got unless someone "took apart" the unit and repaired.
 

SirSteve

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Are you using an 18650 battery with two battery extensions?

It can run with button top or flat top without issues, the pcb should not be loose

I have to second WarHawk's post. williebb123 I switch back and forth between flat and button tops in my Vamo, Sig Zmax V2, and #8 mech, never had a problem with any of them.

I did replace the Vamo V2 spring with the Silver Bullet hot spring from AltSmoke many months ago to get rid of the battery rattle. Silver Bullet/Omega - Replacement Hot Spring - Silver Bullet - Starter Kits - AltSmoke In the O.P.s case though this may push the board even more.
 

djbeckett

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I'm using the efest 2250's (flat tops). The button tops are panasonic. Using the longer extension. The board certainly moves in mine. The button tops always work, the flat tops suddenly don't work. Pull the board in the end cap direction, immediate fire. I removed the red rubber washer, probably shouldn't have. Still works like a champ, other than the flat top issue. I bought from vaporbeast.com, he recommended the flat tops. With the battery removed, I can see that the soldered contact pin on the board is flush with the base. From what I've read, a rattling battery was in previous versions, not my V3. The cap is tight in mine.
I bought one from fasttech.com, works great! $32.00, approx. 15 days to arrive at my home........
 

WarHawk-AVG

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pbusardo on his original Vamo report said to stretch the spring in the end cap to remove the play...check to see if your batteries are in fact 65mm long...

What it sounds like though is the guys pcb is shifting in the control head..

Pulls it down with pliers..works for a bit, but it slips up inside the head

Might be the first Vamo V3 disassemble attempt [if you do...get pics/video!!!!]...as in try to wiggle the entire end cap where the 510 connector is located to see what's inside (I am using mine so don't wanna risk breaking it trying to "fix" it..even though some times I do go by the addage of "fix it till it's broke" :p )
 

djbeckett

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THAT'S A GREAT PROFILE PIC WARTHAWK, NEVER SEEN IT!! TEXAS...............

It's just not the spring nor the battery, that circuit board is moving. I did find one youtube.com video showing how to remove. It works like any other removal: thread any clearomizer on, wiggle until separation happens.

I'm like you, if it works don't fix it. I've taken EGO-T'S apart in the past. Getting the buttons back correctly are tricky.
I asked for support because I thought this would be a common problem with lots of solution posts. I've even found the printed circuit board for sale, $20.00.
 

WarHawk-AVG

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THAT'S A GREAT PROFILE PIC WARTHAWK, NEVER SEEN IT!! TEXAS...............

It's just not the spring nor the battery, that circuit board is moving. I did find one youtube.com video showing how to remove. It works like any other removal: thread any clearomizer on, wiggle until separation happens.

I'm like you, if it works don't fix it. I've taken EGO-T'S apart in the past. Getting the buttons back correctly are tricky.
I asked for support because I thought this would be a common problem with lots of solution posts. I've even found the printed circuit board for sale, $20.00.
linky to the disassembly video...many are asking about it! (or make a video yourself...besides...if we can find out a good replacement for the boogered up heads..hey...maybe we can help other people too!

Sux that your Vamo is busted...not cool
 

WarHawk-AVG

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